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Thread: Starting a rat T build
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just because they fall within minimum rating doesn't mean they are a good match.

    I'm thinking they will look a bit pinched when mounted.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  2. #17
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    soft sidewall dance is a horrible experience made worse by narrow wheels. inch for inch is a better choice.
    kinda like the prostreet craze . lot of brown skid marks over that insanity .

  3. #18
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    Hope its a trailer queen-I wouldn't want to ride in it or even have family members on the street at the same time------

  4. #19
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    I am always open to the information of others. Please, I welcome it. It's not my intention to question him. When I order parts all I can do is go by the manufacturers recommendation of what parts work with what other parts. I ordered this slick because it said 10" wide rim.

  5. #20
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I didn't see any tubes laying there... Highly recommended...

    From there site, it shows the cheater slick mounted. If you look at the tire tread side (street side), you will see that the tire should almost match the rim width size.
    It states tube type.
    I'm also just trying to help. Wouldn't want you to hit the ditch, or get into trouble.

    Tube Type
    • Tread Width: 12.0"
    • Section Width: 14.7"
    • Diameter: 30.0"
    • Circumference: 94.2"
    • Rim Size: 11.0"
    • Code: MHD-12
    • Compound Type: HB-11 Designed For Dry Pavement Racing Only
    Attachment 70416
    Driver50x likes this.

  6. #21
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    Tis not the end of the world. Not even close to the worst we've seen, and he's quite receptive to opinions. Go easy on him, as for now it's still a pile of parts. Either the tires or rims could be traded out, no harm no fowl, and I'll bet he does.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  7. #22
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    Tis not the end of the world. Not even close to the worst we've seen, and he's quite receptive to opinions. Go easy on him, as for now it's still a pile of parts. Either the tires or rims could be traded out, no harm no fowl, and I'll bet he does.
    I understand. Just don't want to see him get hurt. And trying to make sure he checks things more closely.

  8. #23
    Mykk is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes, I've got tubes....and baby powder.

    From my digging the safety concern on running too wide of a tire on a given wheel has to do with tire bead contact angle to wheel lip. It appears there are several opinions on the matter and all I can find are opinions, but the general census is that a 12" tread width slick on a 10" wide wheel is acceptable. For performance, traction and road contact patch I see folks want a a matching tire width for wheel width or even a wider wheel then tire. I can live knowing there's some tire to road contact sacrifice on a 12" tread.

    Please fill me on any variables I have missed.

  9. #24
    DennyW is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mykk View Post
    Yes, I've got tubes....and baby powder.

    From my digging the safety concern on running too wide of a tire on a given wheel has to do with tire bead contact angle to wheel lip. It appears there are several opinions on the matter and all I can find are opinions, but the general census is that a 12" tread width slick on a 10" wide wheel is acceptable. For performance, traction and road contact patch I see folks want a a matching tire width for wheel width or even a wider wheel then tire. I can live knowing there's some tire to road contact sacrifice on a 12" tread.

    Please fill me on any variables I have missed.
    Ok,
    Your missing the specs. From their site, on your type tires...

    Tread Width: 12.0"

    Rim Size: 11.0"

    That's 1 inch, not 2"

    All brands are rated, and sized differently...

    Or, you can run what you have, and see how it goes... Good Luck...

  10. #25
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    going in a straight line is one thing, road driving is another. if you get crossed up with soft wall tires at low pressure ( everybody runs them low to stop bounce) chances of blowing off the rim are good with a narrow wheel. been there got the tshirt
    techinspector1 and NTFDAY like this.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    going in a straight line is one thing, road driving is another. if you get crossed up with soft wall tires at low pressure ( everybody runs them low to stop bounce) chances of blowing off the rim are good with a narrow wheel. been there got the tshirt
    Good information. Thank you. What sizes were you running?
    Last edited by Mykk; 08-25-2018 at 08:21 AM.

  12. #27
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    it was eons ago but i think they were 14 in mt on 10 in rims. couldn't run much pressure but got it out of shape and the movement in the tire was worse than sliding . since then if i run a 10 in tire i run a 10 in wheel .

  13. #28
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    This conversation is one of those subjects that gets heated in a hurry it seems. Years back I was trying to find out info on how safe is it to run these DOT slicks on the street and the feed back I got from people was almost opposite. The street race guys said hell yes we run them from home to the race, race, and then drive back home. You ask track racers and they say absolutely not! Then try to ask how safe they are with tubes on the street...... Most I've asked and been around won't run tubes on the street because the tubes rub the slicks and generate heat and the tire goes boom. Some said they put an absurd amount of baby powder in while installing the tube to help prevent this.

    In my opinion, I'd send those tires back, get my money back and get a radial based tire to start with. These M/T ones seem to work the best in the wet weather. These will take jolting of large pot holes too as where the cheater slicks will not. I know a guy that almost lost his pro street 69 Camaro last summer when he hit a mammoth pot hole and his side wall split. He got very lucky.

    Mickey Thompson | Sportsman S/R™

    Proper rim width is a big thing too. Those tires on a 10" wheel you will be running on the center most of the time. So when you go to turn the tire will want to roll since it's already rounded on the outer edges. That will make for sliding and crappy driving for sure. Been there done it too. You'd probably get by ok for a while since it will be light weight, but if you lose one of those big meats, it isn't a fun ride. About 7 years ago I was racing a guy that blew his engine up and I ran over debris as I was going around him. My right rear tire blew and I just about put the car in to the wall. That was no dang fun at all!
    Last edited by 40FordDeluxe; 08-27-2018 at 12:43 PM.
    NTFDAY, Matthyj and Driver50x like this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  14. #29
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    You guys are correct, the tire is a bit wide for the 10" wheel. I'm gonna use it for mock up, fab and build and ultimately fine a wider wheel or better tire when that time comes.



    I've seen guys road trip across the country on cheatet slicks. Never knew of a problem there but I do see the compound is so soft that an unfortunately angled rock would wreak havoc.
    stovens and 40FordDeluxe like this.

  15. #30
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    Wrenchin' away:









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