Printable View
I am always open to the information of others. Please, I welcome it. It's not my intention to question him. When I order parts all I can do is go by the manufacturers recommendation of what parts work with what other parts. I ordered this slick because it said 10" wide rim.
Tis not the end of the world. Not even close to the worst we've seen, and he's quite receptive to opinions. Go easy on him, as for now it's still a pile of parts. Either the tires or rims could be traded out, no harm no fowl, and I'll bet he does.
Yes, I've got tubes....and baby powder.
From my digging the safety concern on running too wide of a tire on a given wheel has to do with tire bead contact angle to wheel lip. It appears there are several opinions on the matter and all I can find are opinions, but the general census is that a 12" tread width slick on a 10" wide wheel is acceptable. For performance, traction and road contact patch I see folks want a a matching tire width for wheel width or even a wider wheel then tire. I can live knowing there's some tire to road contact sacrifice on a 12" tread.
Please fill me on any variables I have missed.
going in a straight line is one thing, road driving is another. if you get crossed up with soft wall tires at low pressure ( everybody runs them low to stop bounce) chances of blowing off the rim are good with a narrow wheel. been there got the tshirt :(
Good information. Thank you. What sizes were you running?Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
it was eons ago but i think they were 14 in mt on 10 in rims. couldn't run much pressure but got it out of shape and the movement in the tire was worse than sliding . since then if i run a 10 in tire i run a 10 in wheel .
This conversation is one of those subjects that gets heated in a hurry it seems. Years back I was trying to find out info on how safe is it to run these DOT slicks on the street and the feed back I got from people was almost opposite. The street race guys said hell yes we run them from home to the race, race, and then drive back home. You ask track racers and they say absolutely not! Then try to ask how safe they are with tubes on the street...... Most I've asked and been around won't run tubes on the street because the tubes rub the slicks and generate heat and the tire goes boom. Some said they put an absurd amount of baby powder in while installing the tube to help prevent this.
In my opinion, I'd send those tires back, get my money back and get a radial based tire to start with. These M/T ones seem to work the best in the wet weather. These will take jolting of large pot holes too as where the cheater slicks will not. I know a guy that almost lost his pro street 69 Camaro last summer when he hit a mammoth pot hole and his side wall split. He got very lucky.
Mickey Thompson | Sportsman S/R™
Proper rim width is a big thing too. Those tires on a 10" wheel you will be running on the center most of the time. So when you go to turn the tire will want to roll since it's already rounded on the outer edges. That will make for sliding and crappy driving for sure. Been there done it too. :LOL: You'd probably get by ok for a while since it will be light weight, but if you lose one of those big meats, it isn't a fun ride. About 7 years ago I was racing a guy that blew his engine up and I ran over debris as I was going around him. My right rear tire blew and I just about put the car in to the wall. That was no dang fun at all!
You guys are correct, the tire is a bit wide for the 10" wheel. I'm gonna use it for mock up, fab and build and ultimately fine a wider wheel or better tire when that time comes.
https://preview.ibb.co/fvFhTU/2018_08_27_16_48_42.jpg
I've seen guys road trip across the country on cheatet slicks. Never knew of a problem there but I do see the compound is so soft that an unfortunately angled rock would wreak havoc.
https://preview.ibb.co/jmuytp/20181013-074259.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/kLxUzU/20181013-094812.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/ikJY5f/2018-10-19-15-31-52.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/edA4Ff/2018-10-20-11-22-52.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/e7Zyaf/2018-10-20-11-52-29.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/bDHKDA/2018-10-27-11-19-34.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/bFSx0q/2018-10-27-11-20-26.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/e3CEfq/2018-10-27-10-50-21.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/kQVZwV/448496...78953984-n.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/dbzBtA/2018-10-27-16-25-39.jpg
https://preview.ibb.co/iJCaLq/2018-10-27-16-29-31.jpg
Very cool thread with a great power train twist! Thanks for posting and being open to advice, I find the wealth of knowledge here humbling, but appreciate safety tips from Denny and Jerry, and appreciate that you don't get offending and are keeping this thread alive! What are your thoughts towards paint on the body? A distressed patina or something less Rat? I agree with the others if I was walking down the street and saw that BMW Supercharged V8 I'd definately be stopped in my tracks.
I'm a bit up in the air on color, my natural is the semi-gloss black. I was toying with the idea of a dark military green (which wouldn't work so well with the red accents). Or maybe even a wrap like a brushed stainless look. I'll wait to let the car tell me what it want's when that time comes.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Did you perchance see Don's old thread on Project 3K? here is the thread link
http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-ta...-underway.html
That is a great thread with quality craftsmanship, thanks for sharing
Well after so much comment about my earlier response----I think you may have the front spring mounted incorrectly-------
Just to clarify----the framed out roller in the picture on Post #1---------is NOT your car?????????