Thread: My Rat Build

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Decided against using the original steering box from a 50 Chevy truck due to a space issue so I am going with a rack and pinion from a 1988 Dodge Omni I picked up at the local you-pull-it yard for 25 bucks.

Havent decided if I will mount it directly to the axle or build mounts off the frame to do away with using a slip joint on the steering column.
Any suggesting would be appreciated on this.

Thanks,
Larry

This pass week I got the two link saddles tacked in place on the rearend and the shocks brackets made. I used a couple of rear coilovers from a mid 80's Honda. Works perfectly

Hopefuly I can get the frame drill and sleeves welded in so I can attach the two link this weekend. Its been slow but well worth the time. I'm learning as I go on this project.

Heres a couple of pictures of my progress.

Larry

Originally Posted by Crazyrat

Decided against using the original steering box from a 50 Chevy truck due to a space issue so I am going with a rack and pinion from a 1988 Dodge Omni I picked up at the local you-pull-it yard for 25 bucks.

Havent decided if I will mount it directly to the axle or build mounts off the frame to do away with using a slip joint on the steering column.
Any suggesting would be appreciated on this.

Thanks,
Larry

If you mount it to the axle you will increase unsprung weight and when the slip joint wears the steering will get sloppy. If you mount it to the frame and connect it directly to the spindle steering arms, bumpsteer will be a problem. Every bump or fluctuation in the road will cause a change in alignment. The best way to do this is to mount the rack to the frame and cross-steer the car by hooking the right end of the rack to the right side spindle or use a "piggy back" tie rod end (Speedway Motors) on the right side to connect the rack to the stock (shortened) tie rod. Take the left tie rod end off the rack and leave it disconnected. If you browse some current rod magazines, you will see this method gaining popularity.

Looks great ,my only suggestions would be to weld some plating over the frame where it changes angles on the kick ups and not to use muffler pipe for the bushings,use some thick walled pipe those bushing housing take some heavy loads.
Other than that it`s great you are doing this !!!!

Originally Posted by shawnlee28

Looks great ,my only suggestions would be to weld some plating over the frame where it changes angles on the kick ups and not to use muffler pipe for the bushings,use some thick walled pipe those bushing housing take some heavy loads.
Other than that it`s great you are doing this !!!!

Took your advise and notched the frame to receive the support piece and welded it flush with the frame and welded in a gusset to support and box around the end of the trailing arms. Also replaced the exhaust pipe sleeve with some 1/8" wall pipe for stronger support of the bushing. Still need to add the gussets to the kickups, just havent had the time to get to all that yet but I do have them cut out and ready to be welded in.

Thanks again for the advise.

Just thought I would post a couple of photos of my progress. Thanks for allowing me on this board.

Larry

A little update on my build.

The truck has gone through a few changes since the last post. I did away with the gasser front end and went with a suicide style suspension.

I have most of the floor frame work in now and most of the floor pans cut and fitted in.

Great job. I like how you are open to suggestions and all. I love that truck. Tempted to do my '47 like that. Perley

Did you make these axle leaf mount brackets?