Thread: Starting it early, 41 ford PU
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08-26-2014 08:45 AM #61
so we're having a hard time getting intake manifold bolts?????????????and we need the block origin year and vehicle???? what heads and intake would maybe make a difference in case the heads or manifold aren't original but you can probably do a Summit/Jegs search for Arp intake manifold bolt kit-----------
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08-26-2014 10:33 AM #62
That is what i was thinking but the AE does not correlate to any other SN's i have seen
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08-26-2014 10:35 AM #63
Jerry, i am heading to a parts shop near me today to pick up some intake bolts. Hope they work
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08-26-2014 11:45 AM #64
Copied direct from the link above:
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Decode the first character letter. Ford casting numbers always start with a letter for “Decade,” according to Classicmustang.com. A Ford 302 engine can trace its roots to 1962 when it was first introduced in a Ford Fairlane. It remained in production till the mid 1990s.
In the 1960s, Ford started using the numbering structure with the first letter being “C.” In 1970s, it changed to “D” and so on. For instance, if the casting number is C5ZZ-2140-CR, the decade number is “C” or 1960s.
2
Decode the second number. The second number in the code is always the manufacturing “Year.” For the example above; C5ZZ-2140-CR, the manufacturing year would be 1965.
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Decode the third character. This represents the vehicle line. Letters A, F, J, O, R, T, Z, D, G, M, P, S and V represent car lines Galaxie, Outside U.S., T/A Racing, Industrial, Fairlane/Torino, Rotunda, Truck, Mustang, Falcon (60-69), Comet/Montego, Mercury, Autolite/Motorcraft, Thunderbird and Lincoln (61+), respectively.
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Decode the 4th digit. This digit identifies the engineering group of Ford that designed the part and the component group it belongs to. For instance, A, C, E, F, H, J, M, P, R, U, X, Y and Z represent Truck division, Body and electrical, Engine group, General parts/Electrical and Electronic, Climate Control, Autolite/Ford parts and Service division, Performance vehicle and Holman Moody, Automatic Transmission, Manual Transmission, Axle and Driveshaft, Special vehicle parts (muscle parts) or Emissions or Economy, Lincoln and Mercury service parts and Ford service parts/Aftermarket parts, respectively.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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09-07-2014 06:05 AM #65
Cleaned the crap out of my valve covers and got them painted up nice. It is a bad pic, i hadn't cleaned them up after the polishing compound.
Looking at the intake that came with the motor, is an '82. Just does NOT seem to line up right. doesnt really matter i guess, goin with an aftermarket intake anyways... Just got to do some research on inake/carb combo's. It would be sweet to get one of Procharger's superchargers on this eventually. make for a nice sleeper.
I was thinking about painting this motor a deep gold color. With the black truck, black intake/headers, with polished pullies/etc, i think it would look sick.
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09-08-2014 01:43 AM #66
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10-15-2014 08:50 AM #67
Sorry for my newbish comments guys...
Good news though, Possibly closing on a house here in the next month (then getting married Nov.29th!) EESH gunna be a busy month...
But this house has TWO two car garages, one with 200 amp service to it! Should HOPEFULLY be able to get my truck into a garage and start working on it soon!
Bad news... taking the old water pump off, broke one of the bolts off inside the block
Bolt was rusted pretty bad and snapped flush with the block. Been sprayin it every couple days with WD40. Need to get a bolt extractor set then back to work.
Question... How worried would you be it you were to have pulled a water pump off and RUST fell out! I am not looking to tear this motor apart and do a full rebuild right now if at all possible... Would you feel confident in doing a good coolant flush?
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10-15-2014 04:10 PM #68
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10-16-2014 03:43 AM #69
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10-16-2014 05:59 AM #70
No such thing as a "newbie" question around here, just evidence of someone who knows enough to ask when encountering a new situation!!!!
As for the broken stud, plain old WD-40 probably won't do it! You need a good penetrating oil designed to loosen rusted pieces! I use a product called PB Blaster, might want to try it or something similar. I believe that the WD company now has a product out that is a penetrating oil rather then just the usual WD---Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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10-16-2014 04:03 PM #71
X2 on the WD-40.. it's for drying wires, hence the name W.D. ...
I like Kroil for a penetrant. and if you can get it red hot then try to loosen or get it hot and then let it cool that might help too.
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10-16-2014 04:13 PM #72
Welcome - Good Luck - and above all ENJOY your Project/Hobby. I promise you that no matter how many you may happen to build during your life, you will remember and talk about this one forever.
meller
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10-16-2014 10:01 PM #73
- Join Date
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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I have to say Kroil works better than PB blaster IMO, especially when the material is hot.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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10-17-2014 03:29 AM #74
I have never heard of Kroil... i will have to look into it. Thanks for the info and insight gentlemen.
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10-17-2014 04:43 AM #75
I met my wife at a singles dance. I was quite surprised, as I thought she was at home with the kids.
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