Thread: Starting it early, 41 ford PU

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so we're having a hard time getting intake manifold bolts?????????????and we need the block origin year and vehicle???? what heads and intake would maybe make a difference in case the heads or manifold aren't original but you can probably do a Summit/Jegs search for Arp intake manifold bolt kit-----------

That is what i was thinking but the AE does not correlate to any other SN's i have seen

Jerry, i am heading to a parts shop near me today to pick up some intake bolts. Hope they work

Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord

That is what i was thinking but the AE does not correlate to any other SN's i have seen

Copied direct from the link above:
1
Decode the first character letter. Ford casting numbers always start with a letter for “Decade,” according to Classicmustang.com. A Ford 302 engine can trace its roots to 1962 when it was first introduced in a Ford Fairlane. It remained in production till the mid 1990s.
In the 1960s, Ford started using the numbering structure with the first letter being “C.” In 1970s, it changed to “D” and so on. For instance, if the casting number is C5ZZ-2140-CR, the decade number is “C” or 1960s.

2
Decode the second number. The second number in the code is always the manufacturing “Year.” For the example above; C5ZZ-2140-CR, the manufacturing year would be 1965.

3
Decode the third character. This represents the vehicle line. Letters A, F, J, O, R, T, Z, D, G, M, P, S and V represent car lines Galaxie, Outside U.S., T/A Racing, Industrial, Fairlane/Torino, Rotunda, Truck, Mustang, Falcon (60-69), Comet/Montego, Mercury, Autolite/Motorcraft, Thunderbird and Lincoln (61+), respectively.

4
Decode the 4th digit. This digit identifies the engineering group of Ford that designed the part and the component group it belongs to. For instance, A, C, E, F, H, J, M, P, R, U, X, Y and Z represent Truck division, Body and electrical, Engine group, General parts/Electrical and Electronic, Climate Control, Autolite/Ford parts and Service division, Performance vehicle and Holman Moody, Automatic Transmission, Manual Transmission, Axle and Driveshaft, Special vehicle parts (muscle parts) or Emissions or Economy, Lincoln and Mercury service parts and Ford service parts/Aftermarket parts, respectively.

Cleaned the crap out of my valve covers and got them painted up nice. It is a bad pic, i hadn't cleaned them up after the polishing compound.


Looking at the intake that came with the motor, is an '82. Just does NOT seem to line up right. doesnt really matter i guess, goin with an aftermarket intake anyways... Just got to do some research on inake/carb combo's. It would be sweet to get one of Procharger's superchargers on this eventually. make for a nice sleeper.

I was thinking about painting this motor a deep gold color. With the black truck, black intake/headers, with polished pullies/etc, i think it would look sick.

Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord

i think it would look sick.

I still have trouble picturing "sick" as meaning "cool". Just too old I guess.

.

Sorry for my newbish comments guys...

Good news though, Possibly closing on a house here in the next month (then getting married Nov.29th!) EESH gunna be a busy month...

But this house has TWO two car garages, one with 200 amp service to it! Should HOPEFULLY be able to get my truck into a garage and start working on it soon!

Bad news... taking the old water pump off, broke one of the bolts off inside the block

Bolt was rusted pretty bad and snapped flush with the block. Been sprayin it every couple days with WD40. Need to get a bolt extractor set then back to work.

Question... How worried would you be it you were to have pulled a water pump off and RUST fell out! I am not looking to tear this motor apart and do a full rebuild right now if at all possible... Would you feel confident in doing a good coolant flush?

Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord

Question... How worried would you be it you were to have pulled a water pump off and RUST fell out! I am not looking to tear this motor apart and do a full rebuild right now if at all possible... Would you feel confident in doing a good coolant flush?

Yep! Sure, give it a good flushing, in one side and out the other, then reverse the flow and see what comes out.

Flush until clean and don't be surprised by the stains you leave in the driveway! BTDT!

Originally Posted by 34_40

Flush until clean and don't be surprised by the stains you leave in the driveway! BTDT!

Good thing ive got a gravel driveway, lol.

Thanks for the advice, that was what i was thinking. I just dont want to end up doing something stupid and ruining the motor and yall sayin, "WTF did you do THAT for!?" lol

Originally Posted by 41HalfTonFord

Sorry for my newbish comments guys...

Good news though, Possibly closing on a house here in the next month (then getting married Nov.29th!) EESH gunna be a busy month...

But this house has TWO two car garages, one with 200 amp service to it! Should HOPEFULLY be able to get my truck into a garage and start working on it soon!

No such thing as a "newbie" question around here, just evidence of someone who knows enough to ask when encountering a new situation!!!!

As for the broken stud, plain old WD-40 probably won't do it! You need a good penetrating oil designed to loosen rusted pieces! I use a product called PB Blaster, might want to try it or something similar. I believe that the WD company now has a product out that is a penetrating oil rather then just the usual WD---

Bad news... taking the old water pump off, broke one of the bolts off inside the block

Bolt was rusted pretty bad and snapped flush with the block. Been sprayin it every couple days with WD40. Need to get a bolt extractor set then back to work.

Question... How worried would you be it you were to have pulled a water pump off and RUST fell out! I am not looking to tear this motor apart and do a full rebuild right now if at all possible... Would you feel confident in doing a good coolant flush?

No such thing as a "newbie" question around here, just evidence of someone who knows enough to ask when encountering a new situation!!!!

As for the broken stud, plain old WD-40 probably won't do it! You need a good penetrating oil designed to loosen rusted pieces! I use a product called PB Blaster, might want to try it or something similar. I believe that the WD company now has a product out that is a penetrating oil rather then just the usual WD---

X2 on the WD-40.. it's for drying wires, hence the name W.D. ...

I like Kroil for a penetrant. and if you can get it red hot then try to loosen or get it hot and then let it cool that might help too.

Welcome - Good Luck - and above all ENJOY your Project/Hobby. I promise you that no matter how many you may happen to build during your life, you will remember and talk about this one forever.

meller

I have to say Kroil works better than PB blaster IMO, especially when the material is hot.

I have never heard of Kroil... i will have to look into it. Thanks for the info and insight gentlemen.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

I have to say Kroil works better than PB blaster IMO, especially when the material is hot.

Great stuff, nobody around here even handles it anymore!