Thread: Does this qualify as a Hot Rod?
Hybrid View
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05-16-2011 10:04 AM #1
Still got to love the Ferrari red originals! Maybe red with a big gold badge with the Ferrari leaping stallion, or with white oval number plate? With that body style it will hard to go too wrong with any color scheme you have mentioned! Just no purple/pink!
For some inspiration here is a shell commercial /youtube link of classic f1 racing cars.
YouTube - MySpaceTV- Ferrari F1 - Shell Gas - Greatest Commercial Ever! by I Am Seans Boredom"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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05-15-2011 10:54 PM #2
I think dark green instead of the dark grey/black would be a great combo"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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05-16-2011 06:29 AM #3
I don't have a good eye for color at all, but I do think a car this unique deserves some special consideration on the color. When Lotus was really dominating in F1, didn't they go with the black and gold colors, like the John Player cars?? Green and white to me are very traditional British colors and have always looked good on most anything that is or resembles British sports cars.
Hey, great job on the radiator and fan, looks great!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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05-22-2011 09:55 AM #4
Finally finished the bonnet mods. A lot of work for a few subtle changes.
frontmods2.jpgP5220016.JPG
Moving on to more mechanicals, fuel system and, ugh, wiring.Wes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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05-30-2011 09:15 PM #5
Progress on several fronts over the last couple of weeks.
First I wired up the dual speed radiator cooling fan with the help of this thread...
http://forums.hybrid...__1#entry921201
...and it's associated links.
I got all of my parts at the local Pick N Pull.
Dual Speed Taurus Fan $35
Volvo Fan Relay w/plugs $10
BMW Temp. Switch w/plug $ 7
Total $52
P5210029.JPG
Next I went to work on the hydraulic clutch system.
The Tilton .850 master cylinder, ($85 from Summit Racing)...
P5210019.JPGP5210028.JPG
...connects to the Camaro slave cylinder ($35 at O Reilly Auto) with a blue -3 an coupler ($2.45 Summit), a 32" -3 an 90 degree hose ($17 Summit) and a 'GM clutch cylinder to -3 an' adapter ($32 Summit).
Total cost about $90.
Very clean when installed.
P5210027.JPGWes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-24-2011 11:50 PM #6
Ordered the Le Mans style gas cap from Factory Five Racing today.
image.php.jpeg
Fuel pocket will be modified to produce a tight factory-like fit.
P3080001.JPGWes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-25-2011 08:35 AM #7
The hydraulic slave cylinders for the clutch make for such a neat installation, way better then trying to get all the mechanical linkage fabbed up for custom installs!!! Nice job!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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06-26-2011 09:55 PM #8
The secret to making this setup simple is the GM slave to -3AN adapter.
I did virtually the same setup ten years ago for my TR7, using a GM slave mounted in the bell housing, and the stock Camaro master. No adapter available at that time, so I spliced two Camaro hydraulic lines (each with the proper end fittings) together using -3AN fittings. Quite expensive!! And the Camaro master cylinder doesn't mount to a vertical portion of the fire wall. The mounting plate sits at a 45 degree angle to the cylinder, so I fabbed up an adapter from a piece of galvanized pipe. Looked like crap, but worked perfectly.
clutch.jpgWes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-26-2011 11:06 PM #9
I'm in for hotrod....may not be an old school hotrod,.....BUT......it is being built the old school way....in your garage on a small budget and IT IS or WILL BE a mismatch of parts.....Its a modern day HotRod to me......beside....you'z the one havin the fun buildin it and will definately WILL have the fun ridin it.
COOOOOOOOOOOOOL Project.Never take life too serious.....You wont make it out alive 
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06-26-2011 11:17 PM #10
Nice.I have been watching this thread for awhile.Could you back track alittle and post the fitting of the kit body??.Some details of that would be very good too.Pictures??.
Just curious.Do you have a finished wt of the car??.I would guess it is very light and it wouldn't take much to make it very fast.Cornering it has to be like it is on rails.Good Bye
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06-28-2011 03:03 PM #11
Body fitting
I have a lot of pics of the body installation. I'll divide them up into a few posts. As for weight, I have no idea. I'll look into finding out.
Here are a few pics of the donor body prep.
Starting with the original 260Z...
100_0533.JPG
...enlarging the rear fender openings...
000_0080.JPG
...and removing the roof.
topless.JPG000_0132.JPGWes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-28-2011 03:39 PM #12
The VR body kit came as nine separate fiberglass pieces:
1 Rear Tub
1 Tilt Front End
2 Front Quarter Panels
2 Door skins
1 Trunk Lid
1 Windshield Cap
1 Le Mans gas Cap pocket
vrkitpieceslaidout02.jpg
My son Nick helped me attach the header cap first. It slips over the cut roof and gets glassed in.
header.JPG
Next, we attached the tub with a combination of short strand fiberglass adhesive and expanding foam.
tub.JPGtub2.JPG
The fiberglass is used to attach the tub to the door jams. The expanding foam fills the gap between the old Z sheet metal and the new fiberglass body making it impossible for the tub to shift.
100_0670.JPGLast edited by Fauxre; 06-28-2011 at 03:44 PM.
Wes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-28-2011 04:11 PM #13
Body fitting
The door skins were glued on using more short strand fiberglass. I know a lot of people prefer to use a two part epoxy adhesive for this, but that becomes very expensive. I've been told by people who are in the business of making high end prototypes, that the short strand fiberglass is more than adequate for automotive purposes.
doorgap.JPGdoorprep.JPGdoorgap2.JPG
A nylon rope soaked with resin, fills the gap between old metal and new fiberglass..
rope.JPG
...and makes for a good hard smooth finish.
PICT0017.JPG
That's the basics of the body fitting. The cheek panels and front bonnet bolt on. The bonnet takes some trimming to fit right around the doors and windshield and I did some reworking of the cheek panels to get a little better fit, but everything else is just basic bodywork... fill and sand.Last edited by Fauxre; 06-28-2011 at 04:24 PM.
Wes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-28-2011 04:28 PM #14
Body fitting
Panels are all on, before trimming the bonnet.
PICT0009.JPGWes
You don't have to be crazy to do this...
... but it helps!

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06-28-2011 08:02 PM #15
Thank You for the body build part you just posted.I need time to digest that.It has turned out just so nice........well I am kind of speechless.Good Bye





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