Thread: Does this qualify as a Hot Rod?

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good thinking, it should work fine.

Need a little advise on venting this tank.

The tank did not come with a separate vent line. The tech at Tanksinc told me that it was designed to use a vented cap like the original '57 Chevy. My aluminum Aston cap comes with modern, plastic vacuum cap concealed within. I assume I need a vent line to allow air into the tank as the fuel level drops to avoid creating a vacuum. I've been searching all forums for info on how best (meaning easily) to ventilated the tank.

I found this in the Thread: Gas Tank Vent Line.

Originally Posted by John Palmer

Venting the cap would work just fine on many vehicles...

...So what I did was vent the tank to a 5/16" steel line that I bent and routed up through the trunk floor, straight up to the top of the trunk (inside), bent it back 180 degrees and routed back down through the trunk floor and then routed it forward to the inside of the frame rail. Then I drilled the frame and taped it for 1/8" NPT. I used a 1/8" NPT FORD inline carb fuel filter screwed into the frame and attached the hose end to the 5/16" steel line with a short piece of fuel line and two clamps.

Incoming air, is vented/filtered by the fuel filter, then the height of the steel tubing keeps the fuel from sloshing out. No fuel smell is inside the car because it's vented to the outside, even though it's plumbed inside...

If I can't find a vented fuel cap to fit inside the Aston cap (waiting on replies from Factory Five Racing and Stant Co.), I'll route a vent line as above adding a rollover valve at the tank.

Is there anything else I should be considering?

I've put a vent line in the filler neck on some cars, especially when the tank is already in place and I don't want to take it back out to rinse all the metal filings out of it from drilling for a vent!

Another consideration is a filter on the end of your vent line, don't want to be sucking a lot of dust and moisture into the tank!

I ran a vent line with a filter on the end as Dave recommended, on my truck but no roll over valve. After reading this, one of those may be a good idea!

Thanks guys... definitely going with the filtered vent. Is there a rollover valve that fits inline? I've already brazed a 5/16 tube to the top of the tank.

In the mean time I'm mounting the new fuel pump.
The old pump and filter fit neatly in the heavy bracket.

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The new pump will fit nicely as well...

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Unfortunately the old mounting location is now occupied by one leg of the new fuel tank mount. I played around with the bracket and finally decided to try the mount on the passenger side as close to the rear valance as possible. The curved portion of the bracket is no longer required...

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...so, I pounded it straight, cut it off even with the other side, sand blasted it clean, cut a new hole for the fuel line, painted it and attached the new pump.

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In its new location, the old bracket provides considerable protection from possible road debris and (I'm hoping) from exhaust heat since the muffler will run through the gap between the pump and fuel tank.

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Cool-Keep the pictures coming.

More sports car, but way cool ride just the same. With that much moding you can call it what ever you want. Look forward to hearing about your first drive.

Welded up the trunk floor framing from more scrap square tubing. The trunk opening is to small to allow a single floor piece, so I made three sections. Painted the tank with zinc coating from Eastwood.

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Looks good covered, but the hardboard concerns me. It'll need to be protected from moisture. So, I might use these panels as patterns for fiberglass replacements. Undecided.

Originally Posted by Fauxre

Welded up the trunk floor framing from more scrap square tubing. The trunk opening is to small to allow a single floor piece, so I made three sections. Painted the tank with zinc coating from Eastwood.

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Looks good covered, but the hardboard concerns me. It'll need to be protected from moisture. So, I might use these panels as patterns for fiberglass replacements. Undecided.

Another thing you can do it simply liberally coat both sides with fiberglass resin, making them your fiberglass panels. They'll be strong enough and moisture proof, too. Drill your mounting holes a bit oversize, resin them too, then screw them down with some small washers. Just a thought.....

yes I think I'd go with the fiberglass to keep things dry and flat.

OK, so I want to run my fuel lines. I've been reading as many threads here as I can find on the subject, and I think I've got it sorted out.
I'm running a Summit Racing electric fuel pump- 95 gph @7 psi w/ 3/8 npt inlet/outlet, to an Edelbrock 600 cfm carb. My plan is to run 3/8 steel tubing from the tank p/u tube to a fuel shut off valve, on to a filter, then on to pump. 3/8 tubing from the pump into the engine compartment, then flexible tubing to another small inline filter just before the carb.

Question: What is the best (and when I say best I mean, cheapest and still safe) way to connect the hard lines. Will simple flare fittings work for steel gasoline lines? Compression fittings? Or something else?

The best way is with AN fittings, not the cheapest at all but when done correctly they are very safe and don't leak!!! Nobody likes fuel leaks! AN fittings require a 37 degree flare, plus the nut and sleeve on the hard lines. Summit and all the other stores sell the AN to pipe adapters, sleeves, nuts, and tubing. I use aluminum tubing for the hard line, usually 1/2" for a street car which corresponds with a -8 AN fitting. 3/8" line will work too, it's -6 fittings in AN. I just like the bigger line for the added volume and no chance of starving the carb for fuel...

Oh yeah, final thought.... I'd put the shut off valve closest to the tank, then the pump, then a 10 micron filter. I'd make the second filter a 40 or 50 micron filter, and put it to the front of the line, but still under the car and not in the engine compartment!

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

.... I'd put the shut off valve closest to the tank, then the pump, then a 10 micron filter. I'd make the second filter a 40 or 50 micron filter, and put it to the front of the line, but still under the car and not in the engine compartment!

Shouldn't I have a filter between the tank and pump?

Originally Posted by Fauxre

Shouldn't I have a filter between the tank and pump?

Yes and no.... Yes, if it's like a stainless screen type, no if you're talking a paper filter... Fuel should always be pushed through a paper filter, but it can be pulled through a stainless screen.

The reason I use filter after the pump is that if a filter gets clogged, you will burn the pump out when it starves for fuel. If it's pump before the filter, then if the pump gets clogged it should pop the fuse. I'm just so dang fussy about where and what fuel I get these days. On one of the race cars, I run a screen like is used in a dry sump oil system in the scavenge lines in the fuel line(s) between the tank and the pump. Not really a filter, but it will catch any big stuff that falls or gets knocked into the tank when the cap is open.... Having a fuel pressure gauge and keeping an eye on it will let you know when things aren't flowing properly. I use an Autometer isolater for the fuel gauge that way I can have it inside the car. I'm just old and fussy I guess......

Thanks for the input guys. Good stuff.

Roger, thats almost exactly what I ended up doing, but I used a thin sheet of fabric as well.

Now I'm off to get those AN fittings.