Everybody that is currently building a car...

David, what are you going to use for collector size and length on the headers??? I keep waiting for someone to plunk down the big bucks for a set of merge collectors to see if they are actually as good as the claims of the people who make them!!!!! I've used the Flowmaster 4 into 2 into 1 collectors, they were good for 12 horse on the chassis dyno....unfortunately there was enough other variable on the two pulls that I can't really say all the gain was from the collectors..... Torque gain from 3500 to 7000 was significant, too!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

David, what are you going to use for collector size and length on the headers??? I keep waiting for someone to plunk down the big bucks for a set of merge collectors to see if they are actually as good as the claims of the people who make them!!!!! I've used the Flowmaster 4 into 2 into 1 collectors, they were good for 12 horse on the chassis dyno....unfortunately there was enough other variable on the two pulls that I can't really say all the gain was from the collectors..... Torque gain from 3500 to 7000 was significant, too!!!!!

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Dave,

I'm shooting for 36 inches. I'm using a simple 4 into 1 with the collector I believe at 10 inches (3" outlet). Ive read good things about the merge collectors and may consider them in the end. Might as well as much time as I've put into getting these equal length. Any extra HP will be good. :LOL:

I'm wanting to put Holleys new dual mid rise on the LS. I may be going with the port injection and adding a pair of air only TB's. But for now I'm just looking to fire it up with the factory intake. With a different cam (ie Comp Cam) ground to take advantage of the LS head flow rate and much more lift. I'm hoping for 500 HP and to extend the useable rpm range to 7000 rpm. We'll see.

David

I saw (forgot the company) a set of LS7 headers done up as a 3 step primary tube with a 3 1/2" merge collector---with the coating the price comes out to about $850.00!!! That will sure buy a lot of tubes and pay for the TIG time, huh??

Yes it will Dave. I was looking at a set of tight tucks that actually had a nice collector design that was $540 with the coating at Street & Performance. IMO they are the only ones making a nice block hugged style. Another place said they'd make me a set of long tube headers (not equal length.....which is where it is at IMO) for $1200. That's what sold me on the TIG.

David

Seems I always have to build my own headers!!!! Probably because I get a bit carried away on everything I build. Got to have some engine setback (still trying for that 50/50 weight distribution on a street car), different suspension, frame modifications and what have you it seems nothing I ever build has a set of headers made for it that will fit out of the box!!!!

Starting tomorrow I'm going to attack the Plymouth and get it finished, the new radiator finally showed up today! So, while killing a bit of time today I put one of the doors off the '57 on a stand and started on the lightening project for the doors, trying to get at least 15 pounds off each door to stay on track for the "diet" I have the car on!!! Think I can make weight on the doors, they used to have lots of unnecessary stuff inside them that is no longer there!!!!

Oh yeah, brought the front sheetmetal for the 'maro in and put it on a fixture so I can mess with it if the mood strikes!!!!!

Made a set of cross brace jigs yesterday. The old method was to install the sign posts, then try to get a tape measure to the top of a post & measure down to find where the base cross brace would go. Since I install by my self, I would put a large screw at that spot & then guess where level was on the post at the other end of the sign & put a second screw there. I'd then set the 2''x4'' on the screws, with a level on top.Then run the second screw out while holding the 2''x4'' & the level. Then I'd move the board up or down to get it dialed in & run the screw through the board, then run screws in the other posts. That would give me a baseline to work from & I'd use a tape measure to space the rest of the 2''x4''s from bottom to top.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ramingJig3.jpg

Now I can set up a laser level & instantly find level for the bottom 2''x4'' & run a screw through the jig to the post.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ramingJig2.jpg

Then I just stack the 2''x4'' cross braces on the jig, screw them down & remove the jig. DONE.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ramingJig1.jpg

I have every sign size combination I use up to 10' tall. For the rare times I may have a sign taller, I can just do the first 10' & then reposition the jig. This is another one of those deals I have thought about for years.... just didn't do it. It will be another time saver & the framing will be dead on every time. :toocool:


Oh, & I painted them Chevy orange so I don't take them off the post, throw them in the weeds & forget them on the job site. :whacked: :LOL:

On another note, Yesterday I applied for personalized plates for the "Z". I've never had plates on it all these years & I was getting a little nervous that there might be road blocks for waiting so long. So yesterday I went to the DMV & applied, got the name I wanted & all went smooth. I'll wait until I have them in hand before I say what it is. I don't expect any glitches' but this is a government entity I'm dealing with so I'm not going to assume anything until they show up in the mail.

Neat deal Pro!!! When you have to work alone it sure does lead to a lot of "solutions" to tasks that normally require another set of hands, huh???

Holy buckets!!!! You had dealings with the DMV and everything went smoothly as planned???????? Man, mark that one on the calender!!!!

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Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Thanks guys. I'm going to continue on with the mild steel mock ups. If I like how they turn out I might have them coated after welding and grinding or make a set out of stainless using the mild steel mock up as a reference like everyone suggested. I decided to dig deep and spend the coin on a Steer Clear unit. That way I can put the steering shaft just over the frame rail. That'll give me the extra room to make these equal length. Also need to buy a shorty column to give more foot clearance for brake and throttle pedal. Had my mind set on using everything I already had but I just don't want to have to work around all these little pesky problems.

Hi ho, hi ho, off to the shop I go.

David

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OK David, I found you a bender!!:D https://mail.google.com/mail/?tab=wm...56308c92ff435c ;)

Very slick Pro. I like the Chevy orange, too. Can't tell you how many bolts and bits and peices that have just disappeared on me in the grass/dirt!

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Originally Posted by rspears

OK David, I found you a bender!!:D https://mail.google.com/mail/?tab=wm...56308c92ff435c ;)

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Roger,

I'm not seeing it when I go to the link.

David

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Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Roger,

I'm not seeing it when I go to the link.

David

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Bad link - try this one...tube bending - YouTube

Pro you do get very independent when working alone. When I was building garages and room additions I made props with boat wench straps to stand up walls by my self. At least they don't talk back or stay to long for coffee.LOL

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Very slick Pro. I like the Chevy orange, too. Can't tell you how many bolts and bits and peices that have just disappeared on me in the grass/dirt!

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Yup, it's happened to me on more than one occasion.

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Originally Posted by cffisher

Pro you do get very independent when working alone. When I was building garages and room additions I made props with boat wench straps to stand up walls by my self. At least they don't talk back or stay to long for coffee.LOL

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The older I get the more I appreciate a good jig or specially made tool to make the job easier. I'm kickin' myself for not building some of this stuff years ago.

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Originally Posted by rspears

Bad link - try this one...tube bending - YouTube

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Ha ha Roger. I'll take one. Fascinating!

David