Looks good Dave!
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Looks good Dave!
Hey Dave, just curious about how you're holding the patch in place with those clecos....especially if you're going to butt weld the patch. Perhaps they are holding a copper plate on the back side? Enquiring minds wanna know...:D:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
This patch is flanged on the outside, I'm not going to butt weld this one. Chad doesn't run inner fenderwells on the Cutlass, so the flange adds a bit of strength to the fender.
Ah, that explains it....Thanks! When you flange like this, how do you seal the overlap to prevent future moisture and rust?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Both pieces of the flange will be sprayed with weld thru pimer before welding, then I hammer weld the patch so it fits nice and tight. Once the seam is all welded and ground, I'll spray on the epoxy primer both inside and outside, then use a light coat of fiberglass filler (it's water proof) on both sides of the seam. This fender will get finished and painted on the inside, if it's like on a quarter panel or where the inside doesn't get finished then I use 3M seam sealer over the inside of the flange over a coat of epoxy primer, then some bed liner rolled or brushed on over the primer. Can't see it from pic of the outside, but the inside edges of the patch go to the bend on the bottom and sides and to the radius in the fender on the top side so after welding and grinding the patch is invisible on the inside, too.
Good info Dave,
I love reading all your posts and body work posts especially.:)
Jack.
Thanks Jack, I'll post some pics as I go along with the Cutlass. I don't suppose a lot of my methods are 'correct' for the high production methods all the shops use today but then I'm just an old Hot Rodder, not a real body guy anyway.......
X2,Jack..Even though I've been in body and paint shops for 30 years,I still enjoy watching Dave's work..Kool stuff..:cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
X3 (haven't worked in any shop except HighSchool! :) ) but love to see the right solution to a problem.
Dave like Mr. Miyagi you rub your hands together and mend metal , not bad for a old hot rod builder . You need a video showing us the majik you install upon this crud iron ore . I am having a lot of trouble with the ping and ding part . :)
Not really any magic, Bobby, just a matter of the right hammers and dollies and a whole lot of patience. Helps to be a 'dent detective' sometimes, too..... If I can figure out where the dent started and ended, then I can usually start where it ended and ding and ping my way back to where it started....if that makes any sense!!!!!
Did some sanding on the other fender for the Cutlass today, it had some surprises in it, too. Going to need a couple patches and a bit of dent work on it, too.
Dave I am using this on the rear valance of the horse . It is so flimsy it seems to move a lot , I tap lightly and end up on both sides to get the low side out . Not given up though it will be over come or replaced LOL .
Yeah, the light stuff can give you fits!!! Sometimes just a dingin' spoon is all you need, hammer and dollie can cause more damage then it cures!
I knew I should get a slapper .
Spent some time (with no interruptions!!) working on the Cutlass RF fender today. Got the patches welded in. On the big one on the bottom I tacked things in place, then slowly did the welding thing on the outside, flipped the fender over and used a hammer and dollie to get the flange flat and welded the inside. After that was done, I took the bottom brace off the fender and ground all the rust off of it then treated it with Phix, primed it, and welded it back in place with some seam sealer between the two pieces. Got most of the trim holes welded shut and ground down, called it a day.