Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

Tweet

I don't know just where this conversation got going between the 9 and the quick change, but as I read it seems to be centered around weight???

Strange has a redesigned and lightened 9 in iron center housing that I think he said they took 7 lbs off---

I have ran q-change under fuel cars for the purpose of lowering height of funny car and only issue was occasionally breaking the rear change gears-

In our rear engined dragster, I used a franklin center, Halibrand 3 inch axle, only one brake disc but with 2 calipers and Nance magnesiam side plates--broke the thrust side plate, built a billet 7079 alum one(was a bit heavier then) problem with that set up was with only one brake disc the heat from the brake was enough to loosen the splined hub on that side---and after breaking a set of change gears in a final somewhere--changed to ford 9 inch-

We ran the 4.86 ring and pinion because the ring gear was thicker and stronger than the 4.11--never had a ring and pinion problem---

Oh yeah!!! I remember a picture you posted with the wheels way up and the quickie showing, Jerry!!!! Guess the last quickie problem I had in a street car was similar, broke the quick change gears about 60 miles from home.....

I was looking at the Strange Housing, too. They also added a lighter set of brakes for the rear now too. Winters sez that their aluminum center for the 9" housing is 15lbs. lighter then a steel housing....thinking maybe the ideal way would be to use the Winter's aluminum center for the housing, then a pair of 3" thin wall 'moly tubes.... Should be strong and light, even gave some thought to going to a set of floater ends and hubs with the 31 spline axles?????? Never did brake a hub on a floater unless it was from getting into a wall or another car....

I got the Strange floater hubs on my pro stock chassis---used the 5 1/2x 5 bolt circle--don't even have to jack it up to change rears----also have a aluminum center(don't remember if it is Strange or Mark wILLIAMS) IT HAS THRU BOLTS FOR THE CARRIER BEARIBGS sorry about caps)---I do prefer the nogular iron housings though for drag racing as nothing then lets me down--35 spline gun drilled axles----

Best thing about the floaters is the gear change without removing the tires. The thru bolt carrier is way stronger, IMO--We've got over 200 runs on the Comet (only a high 9 car) and absolutely no problems. Also, I like to do a bit of corner carving, maybe even an open track day or two at a road course, and the floaters are much stronger for that then a flanged axle..

Dave--if you still don't have the part for your furnace---JohnstoneSupply or Grainger----both big suppiers of HVAC stuff---and also Dreisilker.com

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Dave--if you still don't have the part for your furnace---JohnstoneSupply or Grainger----both big suppiers of HVAC stuff---and also Dreisilker.com

It's some sort of weird motor that turns the wrong way, can't just reverse it cuz it has to send a signal to a pressure switch to make the furnace light.... Johnstone didn't even stock it!!! Hopefully it will arrive yet this afternoon on the Big Brown Truck, going nuts sitting in the house all day!!!!!!

Hey OJ, are you doing any classes at your shop this winter? I didn't see any posts on here so I was going to check the other forum, but saw you pop in here.

35Ford I keep loosing your build link !! geez these computers need reformatted every now and then .

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

I got the Strange floater hubs on my pro stock chassis---used the 5 1/2x 5 bolt circle--don't even have to jack it up to change rears----also have a aluminum center(don't remember if it is Strange or Mark wILLIAMS) IT HAS THRU BOLTS FOR THE CARRIER BEARIBGS sorry about caps)---I do prefer the nogular iron housings though for drag racing as nothing then lets me down--35 spline gun drilled axles----

Jerry & David, I see Winters and Strange now also offer aluminum hubs for their floaters..think they'd work out ok for the '57 being a street/road course car, or better to stick with the steel units?????

steel hubs for street, aluminum hats for rotors

I probably won't run the floaters although it would be nice. I'm leaning towards the quick change again. But I'll probably change my mind again before the end of the day. Dang ADD. LOLs. Why is there such a difference in the price direct from Winters and Speedway? Winters price is much cheaper direct.

About to leave the house and check out that 36 cab. Hopefully they will sell it. It's in really nice shape.

David

Originally Posted by bluestang67

35Ford I keep loosing your build link !! geez these computers need reformatted every now and then .

you're not missing much Bobby..I have a link that I haven't updated in a year or more! it's part laziness and part just haven't done much of anything on it at all or worth showing!

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

steel hubs for street, aluminum hats for rotors

Ok, figured that was the best way to go. Guess in something critical like a hub strength has to take the priority over weight!

Ive been buildiing my 50 hardtop now for about 2 years since I sold my 50 merc monterey to finance the build. The drive train is done finally. 250 stroker..292 head and crank. JE psitons. big cam fenton like headers. dual rochesters. Built 700R4 57 chev posi 3:73's ...75 percent of the interior is done..All the chrome is done...plus some...most of the body work is done...still needs more blocking...fortunately this is a rust free hardtop...very hard to find a non rusty 50, due to the way they built them back then...all the glass is done and tinted..shes lowered, with dropped uprights and lowered springs, and a dropped steering arm. Blocks out back with lower rear leafs..chrome smoothies, with whitewalls...Its been a slow and costly process, but im taking my time and doing it right...I went back to school, so its going really slow...

Kanaka,

WE need pics, pics and more pics.

Jack.