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04-03-2012 07:01 PM #1
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04-04-2012 04:09 AM #2
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04-05-2012 06:20 PM #3
Took a break from the Plymouth today (waiting on parts to show up) and worked on the fender for the Cutlass for a bit. Made a patch panel where the bottom was rotted away, and ironed out some of the dents. I was going to start welding in the patches and filling holes, but when the tank for the welder went empty a couple weeks ago I forgot to refill it!!!! Oh well, have to try again tomorrow.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-06-2012 07:13 AM #4
"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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04-06-2012 01:30 AM #5
Looks good Dave!"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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04-06-2012 07:23 AM #6
This patch is flanged on the outside, I'm not going to butt weld this one. Chad doesn't run inner fenderwells on the Cutlass, so the flange adds a bit of strength to the fender.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-06-2012 07:30 AM #7
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04-06-2012 07:43 AM #8
Both pieces of the flange will be sprayed with weld thru pimer before welding, then I hammer weld the patch so it fits nice and tight. Once the seam is all welded and ground, I'll spray on the epoxy primer both inside and outside, then use a light coat of fiberglass filler (it's water proof) on both sides of the seam. This fender will get finished and painted on the inside, if it's like on a quarter panel or where the inside doesn't get finished then I use 3M seam sealer over the inside of the flange over a coat of epoxy primer, then some bed liner rolled or brushed on over the primer. Can't see it from pic of the outside, but the inside edges of the patch go to the bend on the bottom and sides and to the radius in the fender on the top side so after welding and grinding the patch is invisible on the inside, too.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-06-2012 10:26 AM #9
Good info Dave,
I love reading all your posts and body work posts especially.
Jack.www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44081
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04-06-2012 04:05 PM #10
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04-06-2012 04:01 PM #11
Thanks Jack, I'll post some pics as I go along with the Cutlass. I don't suppose a lot of my methods are 'correct' for the high production methods all the shops use today but then I'm just an old Hot Rodder, not a real body guy anyway.......Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-07-2012 09:52 AM #12
X3 (haven't worked in any shop except HighSchool!
) but love to see the right solution to a problem.
"
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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04-07-2012 08:49 PM #13
Dave like Mr. Miyagi you rub your hands together and mend metal , not bad for a old hot rod builder . You need a video showing us the majik you install upon this crud iron ore . I am having a lot of trouble with the ping and ding part .
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04-07-2012 09:00 PM #14
Not really any magic, Bobby, just a matter of the right hammers and dollies and a whole lot of patience. Helps to be a 'dent detective' sometimes, too..... If I can figure out where the dent started and ended, then I can usually start where it ended and ding and ping my way back to where it started....if that makes any sense!!!!!
Did some sanding on the other fender for the Cutlass today, it had some surprises in it, too. Going to need a couple patches and a bit of dent work on it, too.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-07-2012 09:09 PM #15
Dave I am using this on the rear valance of the horse . It is so flimsy it seems to move a lot , I tap lightly and end up on both sides to get the low side out . Not given up though it will be over come or replaced LOL .





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