Thread: Everybody that is currently building a car...

Tweet

Yesterday - a crowning glory day - I FINALLY finished the wiring on my car

I do need to do the last checkout of one system(cruise control), but all of the wires, switches, senders and read outs are in place, everything seems to work as designed by me as well as others. The fan turns on, the trunk lid goes up and down, the temp gauge works for both the coolant and tranny fluid, the lights all work, including the directionals (they're LEDs and needed a load resistor to operate), the engine runs. Now, I can finish installing the upholstery and bolt the cowl cover and hood on, then pray for spring and clear roads.

Pictures soon of my job (cable ties are sharp and cause sticky red splotches to happen)

Whoooooopeeeee

(It only took 16 months to wire)

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

As always, you have again proven that it's a whole lot easier to do it right the first time then to come back later and do it over!!!! The body is looking good!!!!

Thanks, grandpa! Watching your builds for the last few years has much improved my technique, so thank you for all the good advice. By the way, I just found out my new granddaughter will be here next Thursday morning at 7:30! My daughters doctor scheduled her for a "C" section.

Looks like I'm not the first after all, but these are pretty cool.

I like the eyebrow things on a couple of those trucks falcon...gives it a cool look. I also like the wheel and tire combo on the last one...real nice. I wouldn't have thought of that!

Like I said, a few photos.









Now - off to resize the console a bit as I built it before the carpet and gauges were installed - drat:

The behind-the-dash area got a lot messier then what it started out as with many changes I made - particularly when I changed over from a/c to just a heater, but it was the right way when it's all over. Who needs an a/c in a roaster???!!!

Mike - didn't get any red splotches on the upholstery - but with the temp seat coverings, so what!!!

Steve - I do understand about the 'honey do' list - and that's the reason that it has taken so long. We've been in this house 14 years, and that's when we did the last major repaint, Since we are planning to move to a more temperate climate(Virginia), that all is being redone plus a bunch of new windows and one bathroom makeover for selling.

That is absolutely gorgeous. I would like to offer a suggestion. I'm assuming the two red wires at the top of the fuse panel are power in and it appears there is no lock washer on the connection. If that is true I'd suggest an inside star lock washer and/or anothe adel clamp where you have the wire tye.

Dave- Nice clean job on the wiring. I'm glad you posted all these pictures. I'm thinking of building a wooden base for my fuse panel behind the driver's seat, where hopefully the battery will sit, too. I like the plywood as a base, makes it alot easier than drilling into sheet metal.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

That is absolutely gorgeous. I would like to offer a suggestion. I'm assuming the two red wires at the top of the fuse panel are power in and it appears there is no lock washer on the connection. If that is true I'd suggest an inside star lock washer and/or anothe adel clamp where you have the wire tye.

Thanks NTFDAY!!

There is supposed to be a star washer underneath - but that connection has been on and off so many times it may have 'disappeared'. There is dielectric grease there as well. As far as another Adel clamp - there may not be enough slack. The photos tend to distort actualities

Steve - words of 'advice'. Putting the power distribution panel anywhere but under the dash adds another whole dimension of problems - you need LOTS of additional wire. I used the American Autowire (great product)set up and for most runs there was plenty - then you run into the problems with having to either have some sort of below the floorboards conduit or have to fan the wiring out under the carpet, which I did - and there are lots of wires to hide. I didn't include a battery photo - it's in the trunk and the wiring needs a bit of clean up and a cover/protector on the battery. Here's a photo:

Oh yeah - that console - can't use it!! The heater sits 3-4 inches lower then the a/c I removed and takes up a bunch of the room for the sides of the console and the stereo. Boo hoo, sniff, sniff, oh s@#$!!

Addendum:
OK - another star washer added, original went somewhere.....??? Also, one more Adel clamp on the one wire, the other one, not possible.

Alright, I'm sittin at work bored to death and cant close up shop until 2 so my brain started working overtime. I think I could make this work; I think the only extra $$$ outlay would be to have the glass cut and coming up with something else for a back door; maybe some cut down panel truck door or a school bus rear door. And a lot more welding wire of course. Someone talk some sense into me if I'm about to make a huge mistake!

If your ice cream truck has a roll up door I'd keep it.
Why add more work to the project??
Always remember use the "KISS" method....joe

IC2, beautiful work on the wiring. I have hunkered down for the winter after shoveling part of my driveway from the 13" accumulation last weekend. Basically I just have to finish the speedometer wire and decide if I am going to install the solenoid shutoff on the fuel line, install the downshift cable, add a hose for the power brake and then start the engine. Along the way there is always more to do. The latest problem came when there was no room for the speedometer plug between the trans bracket and the gear takeoff on the side of the trans. No problem, just purchase a $90 right angle gizmo, but wait, it is so heavy that installing it snapped off the gear snout from a cheezy bakelite speedo gear cover. OK so now I have an aluminum speedo gear cover but I have to finish putting the speedo wire to the front away from the hot H-pipe, but now it is just too cold even with a heater that was pretty good up through November. I did find that a ski mask is pretty good insurance from sinus problems while shoveling, but I hope we don't have another heavy snow. At this point of the winter "ice" cream does not have a happy ring to it for me, but the top on that truck is so square that it looks like it would be easy to chop but then how could you stand up in there? Somewhere I saw the aerodynamic drag factor for a Model A compared to a flying brick but the drag factor for that truck must be equal to a flying concrete block! Anyway the first 0-50 mph could still be dramatic with a strong engine and then you could still take icre cream to a SUMMER meet!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally Posted by TooMany2count

If your ice cream truck has a roll up door I'd keep it.
Why add more work to the project??
Always remember use the "KISS" method....joe

Yeah, your right, Joe. If i went through with it, It'd be easy to shorten one of the panels as they need new wood anyway.

That's some good points, Don. The aerodynamics would be pretty lame no matter how much you chopped it. Same thing my wife said about not being able to stand up in it. I'd like to make it shop truck and that could be a disadvantage having to stoop over. Also, I dont want to turn it into an all summer project. I'd like to have it done and on the street by late spring. Sounds like it's pretty cold up there; is the big storm hitting you guys? We're just getting rain right now but snow is supposed to be here later.

Falcon you must have been bored . See I put that in your head , but standing upright is a lot better and more functional .

Yeah, lucky for me I was at work and not in my shop when I thought of it, otherwise it'd be in pieces already.

Falcon, maybe you can chop the roof, but drop the floor inside to compensate for being able to stand inside? Just another thought.