Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By rspears

Thread: starting circuit woes...
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    nvrrdunn1's Avatar
    nvrrdunn1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    EUGENE
    Car Year, Make, Model: 30model a hiboy coupe
    Posts
    15

    starting circuit woes...

     



    I put in a Painless wiring kit in my model a hiboy hot rod, and I added a push button starter switch to turn the 350 chevy motor over.
    I need to know how to wire up my starting circuit right, by seeing a schematic showing how the keyed amkt starter switch I'm using should be wired for this addition of the push button. Also need to know how to check to see if, while engine is cranking, that the "on" (or Ignition side) circuit is still "on" and not cut off during engine cranking. I ran a wire direct from the + coil terminal back to the "I" terminal on the Ford type remote solenoid I am running with a rear mounted battery set up. I am running a pertronix set up in a recurved OE distributor. Any help or a link to a diagram would sure be appreciated. I need this answered before I touch 12volts to it. Thanks.

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    10,989

    Whose PB start are you using, or did you just buy an off the shelf push button and you're not using the "START" position of your keyed switch? Normally when you have a PB start the keyed switch is gone, replaced by a series of relays. I used the PB start & ACC from Street Works, a momentary ON/momentary OFF for start, and a maintained ON for ACC. Pushing the "START" seals in a relay for "ON" and engages the starter through a second relay which drops out when you let off of the PB. The second push of that button drops out the "ON" seal, shutting down the engine. As I recall there are four relays that perform the circuitry for On/Crank/Run functions, and one big relay for the ACC circuit. You don't want the starter solenoid amps going through your PB contacts unless you bought something rated for that current.
    ojh likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,782

    Steve,
    Let's start at the beginning... Is your ignition switch in the column or is it dash mounted? If it's in the column, what kind of column do you have? If the switch is dash mounted, how many positions does it have and how many terminals does it have on the back? For instance, the one on my roadster has 4 positions (Accessory, Off, Ign, and Start) and 4 terminals on the back (Battery In, Ignition, Accessory, and Start). Why do you need a separate start button? Is your switch only 3 position/3 wire? (Acc, Off, Ign) Why are you using the Ford solenoid? I used to run one on my stock cars for safety reasons, but never saw the need on the street... Just wondering.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink