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Thread: 3k-One Year-30's Ford-Rat Rod Build Thread
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    IMO, the old brake lines are best left to the trash.. Not only because of the low cost of brake lines ( $30-40 would buy all the lines needed ) but when you flex on old lines, they will stress and become weaker and safety with them will suffer.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167
    IMO, the old brake lines are best left to the trash.. Not only because of the low cost of brake lines ( $30-40 would buy all the lines needed ) but when you flex on old lines, they will stress and become weaker and safety with them will suffer.
    Plus, the donor was old and evidently parked for awhile...Brake fluid attracts moisture, moisture causes corrosion......
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  3. #3
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 30 Model A Rat Rod on Bags
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    5" chop

     



    Here are some pics of the chop. it is 5". used jig saw, sawzall, cutting wheel.

  4. #4
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    5" chop

     



    here are the pics.
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  5. #5
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    more pics of chop

     



    chop pics-5" with the sawzall
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  6. #6
    OFT
    OFT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford AA; 1927 Ford roadster
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    Chop is looking good. What type custom frame is it going on and how deep will the chanel be? Looks like it may be a tight fit inside cab for you.

  7. #7
    willowbilly3 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by OFT
    Chop is looking good. What type custom frame is it going on and how deep will the chanel be? Looks like it may be a tight fit inside cab for you.
    Yeah, I was thinking how cramped my friends stock 31 pickup was.

  8. #8
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Frame-Suspension Question

     



    THe 2"x4" frame will be under the channeled body. I plan to build the floor on top of the frame, so will loose another 5" of room...4" frame and 1" for floor support equals the 5" .....the seat will need to be a 4-5" thick foam cushion with no seat framework to keep the seat height to a minimum.

    Frame question:
    I plan to airbag this car and I am looking for clean, simple way to airbag a Split wishbone suspension. any idea or perhaps some pics or links would be very helpful. I am about 2 weeks from frame building. help please!!

    thankyou, Jeff

  9. #9
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [
    Frame question:
    I plan to airbag this car and I am looking for clean, simple way to airbag a Split wishbone suspension. any idea or perhaps some pics or links would be very helpful. I am about 2 weeks from frame building. help please!!
    ____________________________________________________________________________________________



    Cenpen makes a cool setup that replaces the traditional Ford cross spring with an airbag setup. My Kid used one on the front of the first version of his RPU, and mounted it suicide instead of the way it was intended, on top of the axle.

    Here are a couple of shots of how he did it.

    Don
    Attached Images

  10. #10
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    airbag -need more info please

     



    Itoldyouso....thanks for the pics, i cant really tell where the airbags are mounted or how the airbag pushes on the frame/wishbone. If you have any other info that would be great. anyone else have pics of a neat wishbone/airbag setup?

  11. #11
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Don, i think the bushings will be fine, i think the key is a tight fit....just like an engine bearing. Once you get a thousandths or so of clearance, the parts can hammer with the slightest movement. Glad to hear bushings are OK..
    Jeff

  12. #12
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I added the cab, box, floor shifter...just over $1800 bucks.
    Rat Rod Price List Project 3k
    Price Item description From
    $630.00 1930s Box and Cab E Bay
    $50.00 radiator grill shell E Bay
    $110.00 350 engine/trans (300-190 for scrap) Craigslist want ad
    $50.00 2 front tires and wheels Swap meet
    $100.00 front axle Craigslist want ad
    $7.00 steering arm-chrome Swap meet
    $(120.00) Scrap Ford F150-bought for rear end Craigslist want ad
    $165.00 airbags Ebay
    $9.00 airhorn ebay
    $50.00 radiator Craigslist want ad
    $20.00 brake master cylinder Craigslist want ad
    brake lines
    $220.00 Rear -15" cheeter slicks Swap meet
    $125.00 front brakes Ford F100 drums, hubs Craigslist want ad
    $20.00 heim joints-front wishbones speedway motors
    $148.00 Frame steel Winnick Steel
    $39.99 Kinpgin bushing kit speedway motors
    $100.00 Ford 9" rear end Kirk-friend
    $39.99 bearing kit, F100 to Ford spindle speedway motors
    seat
    driveshaft
    headlights
    tail lights
    $12.18 Red paint/primer for wheels 2 cans ACE Ace
    $3.00 tire patch-removed a plug TMS
    $20.00 2 tie rod ends speedway motors
    $7.00 1970 Chevelle Floor shifter and cable Swap meet
    $1,806.16

  13. #13
    oldrodder43's Avatar
    oldrodder43 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    WOW! I don't particularly care about the build cost per se, but the component finds etc. are great. Great reading. Personally, I think a 5" chop a little extreme, but what the heck, it ain't my rat. Keep it up. Perley

  14. #14
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
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    It's really looking good and coming along well Jeff. I know what you mean, I have some of the gold drill bit sets Harbor Freight sells, and they last and last. Some of their stuff is crap, but some is a real bargain.

    Hope you hit your $3K figure.........I KNEW it could be done.

    Don

  15. #15
    Wolfco is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Build continues-rear end FORD 9"

     



    I bought this 9" Ford rear end from a friend for $100. The tag on it says
    "3 L 50" which means 3.50 ratio and L = locking differential. NICE !! It is from a 70 or 71 Ford Bronco.

    When I turn the pinion both axles spin in the same direction. That is good, now i wont need to weld the spiders ......i was going to make this a Lincoln Locker"!! (welded by a Lincoln welder for those who havent heard that one)

    The brake parts are really rusty so i sandblasted them at work. The drums were rusty too...i need new wheel cylinders too. I needed to pound the pistons to get them out...they are shot. A friend has a Bronco with the same rear end and is converting to disc, so i am getting all his good brake parts and will choose the best parts for my car. His wheel cylinders are good too....I hope too use them.
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