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Thread: 1930 Chevy sedan build thread...trying for 3K.
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    After I knew the length and width I went to work on the frame. Cut everything in the band saw, did my blue print on the floor and went to work. Pics pretty much say it all.

    Matt
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  2. #17
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Few pics of the tubing welded in. I used a 2.5" o.d. tube with approx. 5/16" wall thickness. Wife came out and held one end of the tape while I square and leveled it up. Also layed out the axle in front to get a feel for how it was going to fit. I had dis-assembled and sandblasted the axle and it's parts and shot a couple coats of DP90LF on them, just so I didn't have to work with that rust junk.

    Matt
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  3. #18
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Next few pics are of the 73 rear Ford axle getting fabbed in. I bought some used coil overs for $61 bucks + $20 shipping. I bought the lower shock mounts from Speedway, along with a few other misc. mounting hardware parts.

    The one pic is of a couple turn buckles I temporarily welded in. I had no reference point at this time to weld in brackets for those rear radius rods...so until I got to that point I need a way to hold the axle from trying to move forward or back. This also gave me a way to make minor adjustments when the time came to weld in the rear radius rod brackets.

    Matt
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  4. #19
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The next few pics are of the front axle getting fitted. Keep in mind in most of these pics everything is tacked and a few temporary brackets have been made....especially the front perch mount. That temporary front perch mount proved to be useful in the weeks, I had to cut and move it twice, for a total of about 3" + inches. I tacked on a 3/4" bolt onto the frame where I believe the threaded bung is going to be welded into. I used a vice grip to space it out to get the 1" distance of the bung and then use the bung to hold it on for now.

    I had to cut the front rods to rotate the axle to get the correct amount of castor. I also ended up making some 3/8" plates and tacked them in at an angle on the back side of the front radius rods to hold the shackle mount.

    Obviously once everything is finalized I am going to pour the coals to it with the welder. Probably going to gusset that 3/8" shackle mount plate up to rod above it.

    Matt
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  5. #20
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I managed to round up a couple buddy's and they helped me carry the body back in. After setting it on the frame, lifting it back up and making the required cuts for channeling it 4"...I set it back on and everything fit just like I had planned. At this point I'm thinking it looks pretty cool!

    I got the drivetrain and managed to muscle it in there and blocked it up in roughly the area where I think it's going to go.

    These pics were taken about 2 weeks ago.

    Matt
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  6. #21
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    This last weekend I did quite a bit more with the drivetrain. I fabbed up motor mounts and tranny x-member. I wish I would have taken more pics of the actual construction of the parts...but I get in the zone and don't want to stop.

    I took some photos after I rolled out the chassis. I made brackets for the rear radius rods out of 3/8" steel, and made brackets using a heim joint to fasten it to the tranny x-member. Those turnbuckles came in handy, I was able to make a couple turns and square up the axle before I tacked anything together. And also keep in mind before you pass judgement on my welds....everything is still tacked together. Before I burn it in hard I want to make sure I don't run into a problem down the road.

    Matt
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  7. #22
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Few more overall pics of the chassis. Oil and tranny pan are approx. 5.25" off the ground right now.

    Matt
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  8. #23
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Few glamour shots of the body back on for now.

    Matt
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  9. #24
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Couple more shots, set the grill on blocks just to get an idea what it is going to look like.

    Oh yea, and these last few pics of the chassis and body outside were taken last Sunday. November 25th, 2007.

    Matt
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  10. #25
    buckroseau is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ok, well that's it for now. I will keep on top of this thread from now on. The next plan of attack is to get the whole thing up on jack stands 2 ft in the air and then crawl underneath and start fabbing up a floor. This way I can fab the floor up, bolt it down to the frame and then I should be able to cut the doors loose....that should be fun.

    Thanks again, Matt

    And Don, to answer your question.....Fenderless.....

  11. #26
    bluestang67's Avatar
    bluestang67 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    One long ride. Fastest posting i've seen also . Great fab work i like seeing the things people make .

  12. #27
    oldrodder43's Avatar
    oldrodder43 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 Essex RS Coupe
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    WOW! Veeerrrrryy COOL Matt. And VERY nice work. Club Hot Rod has GOT to have some of the Country's BEST fabricators! That Chevy sure looks mean. NICE. Keep the posts coming, I still got a lot to learn! oldrodder43 perley

  13. #28
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    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
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    Matt, let me say up front that this is a very very impressive build. Your work is professional, and it is cool that you are taking the time to post this for our enjoyment. I loved every part of it.

    Now, please forgive me for mentioning one thing though. Please do not use those rear radius rods to locate your axle. Ford never intended them to take the kind of stresses they will be under in the manner you are using them. The original intent was only to brace the enclosed driveshaft tube. There have been numerous cases of these breaking or bending badly. I think the single rod end in the center may also prove to be a weak spot for you.

    Please read this thread on the HAMB about one set that broke:

    http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showt...hlight=wrecked

    I am using split bones on the back of mine, however they are an aftermarket set made by PSI at one time, and designed to work in this capacity. They are much heavier than the original Ford items, and have forged ends, not cast.

    During my build a lot of good people took the time to question something I had done, and my own Son took me to task on some things I was doing too. In most cases, they were right, and I rethought and redid some things to correct those areas. I hope you understand that I mention this only to keep you or some other person from getting hurt. After hearing Megans story about her T ending up on it's side, I am more concerned with safety than ever before.

    Aside from this one thing, the car is perfect IMO.

    Don
    Last edited by Itoldyouso; 11-28-2007 at 05:33 AM.

  14. #29
    Ron B.'s Avatar
    Ron B. is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 23 T, 05 SPS
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    Very nice, I love the old sedan's. Please answer this for me, why does it seem that most of the old tin is in Minnesota? Everytime I look at something good for sale that's where it's alway's at.

    Ron

  15. #30
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    brianrupnow is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1931 Roadster Pickup
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    Very nice and well documented build. I have to agree with Don about the rear radius rods not being strong enough. Looks like great quality work, and I am looking foreward to watching the rest of this build up.---Brian
    Old guy hot rodder

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