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Thread: One way to build a '32 sedan
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    stovens's Avatar
    stovens is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Naw he's too busy doing three cars at once and running a buisness, he'll be back!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  2. #2
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
    Ken Thurm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    BradC- Nope I have been working on it, thanks for asking.

    Don-Some times I wish I was doing things like that !

    Steve- I'm always checking in.

    Well here is where it's at. Finished putting in the new sub frame rails and am making the drive shaft hoop, exhaust hangers/holes and ladder bar cross member. That's all in one cross member, I always try to make one thing do at least two or more jobs.
    The sub frame for the body is also on it's way, that's the 1X2" that's laying in the lowered frame rail. That will be welded into the body and the floor welded to that. Then the frame work around the a pillar and b pillar will all tie into that structure. It gets pretty flimsy when all the wood gets pulled out so that is all replaced with rectangular tubing.
    I have a trial fit for the toe board also to see if the firewall will still come out when the body is on.
    Ken
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    Last edited by Ken Thurm; 05-30-2009 at 06:08 AM.

  3. #3
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
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    The cross member still has to be finished boxed in the upper photo
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    Ken Thurm's Avatar
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    Here is where this thing is. I cut off the front frame rails, the plate that is hanging out is what ties the new rails to the existing frame. Now the boxing begins, I hate this part. The window is for accessing the inside of the frame, that's where the brake line will come into the 90 degree bulk head fitting for the brakes and the wiring for the head lights and fan if I use one.
    One of the most important parts to a build is to know the rake of the car so you can set the frame up to have the proper geometry. So when you are done there is no binding in the suspension and every thing works freely without excessive wear on parts. This car will set at 4 degrees rake, I want 6 degrees of caster in the font end so my cross member is set at 10 degrees.
    The rear frame rails were moved up 6", now that I have fixed the stance of the car I can put the rear end in at the ride height. There is 1/2" of clearance between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame. So now I will use a 2" C notch in the frame to give me 2 1/2" of down travel, the way I spring my cars that is sufficient clearance.
    Here are some photo's/
    Ken
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  5. #5
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
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    A couple more
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  6. #6
    Ken Thurm's Avatar
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    One more I pinched the rails 3" and am using a 46" king pin center line axle.
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  7. #7
    stovens's Avatar
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    Ken what kind of transaxle is that?
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

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