Although the Francis switch may be different from the Speedway switch, the only sanity I found was to remove the switch and put one lead of a resistance reading on the +12V input post and then test the resistance at the other posts when you move the switch position. If the switch is in the circuit you may be deceived due to other "loops" in the circuit so you need to have the switch in your hand OUT of the circuit when you make the resistance readings. I tried so many combinations that I ruined one of the headlights and had to buy a pair to replace one, ouch! Now I am in deep consternation for removing my Gennie shifter and replacing it with a Lokar. My floorboard is now a mess with a larger hole and I hope to cover the disaster with a new plywood board! Along the way I learned/found some of the cone bolts in my 700R4 tail stock are 3/8" SAE crammed into the holes of what were supposed to be 10 mm x 1.5 pitch metric. I don't know if I stupidly put them in or they came that way from "Eat My Shift" but apparently GM used metric bolts from 1981 on so I am replacing the four mount bolts with the metric bolts. I have learned to really appreciate the nut/bolt selection at Ace Hardware! One boss stripped but since the bolt was shorter than the boss the correct metric bolts will have access to about 3/8" of the correct thread at the very end of the longer bolts. Live and learn but I want that rear cone to survive driveline vibration! I found a "how to" install a "tail mount" Lokar on the Internet for a '41 Willys trans swap but in my opinion putting the shifter only on the two upper cone mounting bolts is asking for problems and I am glad I have the full multi-point shifter kit but it sure makes a mess of new holes in my roadster floor. Hopefully plywood can cover a multitude of sins/cuts!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder