Thread: Looking to build an iconic 32 Hi Boy

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Kit cars come from one source and there are instructions in the box.

There are two books you should read. The first is "How To Build a Traditional Ford Hot Rod" by Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel. The second is "How To Build a Bolt Together Hot Rod" or something like that by someone whose name I can not recall. The first will tell you about building a true old time flat head powered hot rod. The second will tell you how to build a modern 1-800 credit card belly button car. Somewhere in between is the car you are thinking about.

In my case I built a late 50s style highboy 32 roadster using a fiberglass body. There are some esthetic problems to using a glass body to build a traditional roadster. Hiden hinges - most glass bodies have them. Not a big deal to me but to the purest a no no. Wescott offers a glass body with stock hinges but the price pushes Brookville's steel repop. Gibbon also offers original hinges and there may be others. Firewall - most glass bodies have flat or recessed firewalls. The originals had ribs. Again, it was no biggie to me but those purests are never satisfied. Wescott and Gibbon are faithful repro. I am not aware of any others. And if you want to run that indian blanket interior glass bodies don't look right without some kind of door and kick panels. I ran mine with a cut down Chevy S10 seat for a year and then I had it trimed out. My body came from Show Me Rod And Custom, a small shop near Branson - Springfield, MO. Price was about half of what you would pay for a Wescott FOB Oregon.

Finish paint is John Deere Blitz Black. Looks traditional and it is cheap - about $25 a gallon. But it is easy to chip. If I were doing it again I would use PPG's Hot Rod Black.

For an engine I used a 350 with late centerbolt heads. Not quite right. If I was going to do it again I would build with pre-86 heads and use an intake with a breather tube. I used a T350. I think a 700R-4 would be better.

For my chassis I came up off my billfold a bit and poped for a SoCal unit. I wanted the buggy spring in back. Shipping to Arkansas was expensive. Objectively speaking, Pete and Jakes and Corn Husker both offer comperable buggy spring chassis and the shipping would have been more reasonable.

I have disc brakes up front and they are out in the open for everyone to see. Brakes are important and discs work best. If you ever see Buick drums on one of my rides they will be the real thing. Same for a quick change rear.

For wheels I am running Wheel Vintique steelies. 15"x6" in front and 15"x8" in back. Rubber is 165SR15 in front and 255/70R15 in back. The fronts look OK but the rears are not quite right. I'm starting to think 245/75R15s on 7" wide rims would be better. But I am most likely going to upgrade to 255/75R15s. Learning can be expensive.

Am I pleased? You bet. Am I done? About 99% The seat needs some padding and I want to revist the engine wiring. And I told you about my rear wheel and tire disatisfaction. I drive it regularly. About 3,000 miles the first year, 2,500 the second, and this season the road miles to the events I plan on attending are something like 3,000.

If you keep the build plan simple you will have a timeless machine. One that a future owner can upgrade without going very far backwards first. That kind of car has enduring value. You may or may not be able to get all of your money back when you sell it but the satisfaction of building your own ride is priceless and the fun and comaradery that comes with being a rod owner is invaluable.

Get those books and start reading.