YES a 72 burb they are so cool 3 door. Good luck with that. A yard by me had one he was using for storage of radiators and other stuff He won't part with it.
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YES a 72 burb they are so cool 3 door. Good luck with that. A yard by me had one he was using for storage of radiators and other stuff He won't part with it.
Thanks Charlie! I have had 3 70-72 burbs and sold them all for one reason or another. If I get this one I'll just sell something else and keep it for a family cruiser. There's a yard about 25 minutes from me that has several rusty ones. I tried buying a K20 version from him that is missing the engine and is really rusty. $2500 is what he's asking. I don't need on that bad. :LOL:
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My project didn't find its way to my yard yet. But that's ok, my back enjoyed the down time. Hope everyone had a merry Christmas and here's to a happy new year.
Check this out.
Current and not a piece of trash in a junk yard.
https://santafe.craigslist.org/cto/d...774293118.html
Or do you have a trailer that will tow 2 finds?
https://farmington.craigslist.org/ct...777514288.html
I think there is a different market in your part of the world than here. Check this out, not bad for the price.
https://santafe.craigslist.org/cto/d...764215707.html
That first burb would make someone in the rust belt a good ride. The last one is a nice truck too. I'm not really shopping for one though. I kind of happened across this GMC by chance. I have very little in it too which helps.
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Well I have my next project just need to get in the shop. 87 short bed Silverado
Charlie, that looks like a very nice one to start with!
I finally got some good work time in on the Camaro. I got all the front suspension done now on to the rear. The new springs definitely made a big difference. First pic is before.
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My ride in your camaro is getting closer !
Over the weekend I got some good progress done on the Camaro. It still isn't running yet but I got some parts off the floor. :LOL: I replaced the old leaf springs, rear shackles and bushings. I also did some more welding on my LH sub frame connector. These can be bolted on or welded on. I decided to weld mine on. Instead of just welding the rear area that goes up on the rear part of the rail, I welded the connector to the bottom of the floor on both sides. Then I made plates and put them on top of the floor brace and the connector and welded those up. I wanted to add strength and prevent moisture getting trapped there and rusting these areas out. I still have to finish the LH one.
I also got the injectors cleaned, replaced the o-rings on them, installed the fuel rails to the intake, and installed the intake to the engine.
Here's how it sets now. No, it isn't running yet. I pushed it in and out by hand power. :LOL: I currently have the rear spring in the lower shackle hole. There is 1 more above it. I'm going to move them up to drop the rear a little more. It should handle pretty well. This kit eliminated the big rubber pads that go over and under the leaf spring that allow these cars to wheel hop so bad. I also got some Koni adjustable shocks for it, and it has the delrin bushings in the frame for the shackles. Now I need to get the rear sway bar, a posi and maybe 3.42s and the rear will be done.
Originally I decided to just use an external tank fuel pump. I changed my mind and got an internal one. I'd like to eliminate fuel pump failures if I can. So, I got a 91 Caprice fuel sender and a walbro 255 pump. It took some mods to get it in the camaro tank, but it's in. Now to find a connector to hook to the pump harness and get the tank back in the car.
".......Originally I decided to just use an external tank fuel pump. I changed my mind and got an internal one. I'd like to eliminate fuel pump failures if I can......"
Looking down the road on the Poly/Hemi build and eventually going with an Fitec or something similar those were my conclusions too. I've changed enough in-tank pumps over the years to know I really dislike it. When I get to that point I will also go in-tank and if at all feasible just add an access panel in the trunk floor.
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External are easiest to service, internal are more quiet.
I haven't had much time to work on this but I did get some more pieces for it. Seeing how I thought I could find a good used 3.42 posi rear for a good deal, but couldn't..... I picked up a spartan locker to go inside my original carrier for now. I don't care if it's noisy or whatever.... I just want it to lay 2 marks until I decide if I want to stay with a 10 bolt. So for now I'll have a 3.07 posi so this should be great for a daily driver with my 28 mile each way commute to work. Plus gas is cheap now. Haha
https://www.quickperformance.com/SL-...t_p_19943.html
I also picked up some coil covers but I have to do some mods to fit them on a 5.3. I'm almost done with my air intake set up too. There seems to be a lot of different opinions on where to put the maf every where you look.
Be careful with the placement. You need straight runs in front of the MAF and behind it or it will give strange readings due to turbulence. Been awhile since I was looking at this, but if I recall right, you need 4 diameters in front and 2 behind minimum.
There is another option in front and that is to use an air straightener. That is a honeycomb grid that straightens and smooths out the air flow. This was the route I was going to take, because there was just no way to get 4 diameters in front of the MAF. I went speed density with the Holley system, so I won't be running a MAF.
What size tubing are you using?
I used 4" and I have 6" of straight pipe in between the maf and filter and probably 15" or so from behind the maf before the 90 in the engine. It's funny you mention the air straightener. The 5.3s maf's have a screen integrated in them where the air blows through it and I wonder if that is why that is there?
Probably so. I asked about the tubing size because I had bought a section of 8 to 1 straightener for 4" tubing and I'm not going to need it. Compared to most car parts, it's so cheap it's almost free. I was going to send it to you for shipping, but it sounds like you're good, though. The stuff is pretty fragile and I know it will eventually get squashed laying around here.
This is the stuff I bought. It's a DIY project, but what isn't?
Honeycomb for MAF
Thanks for the offer. It is yet to be determined if I have a handle on it. I've yet to hit the key. :LOL:
Here are some bad pics of my maf placement. The 90* silicone elbow is just for mock up. I have 4" steel ones I will finish the pipe with. I also got some coil covers that I'm going to run. I was going to buy some aluminum BBC valve covers and modify them but the cost for the look just wasn't something I want to get into currently. :LOL:
I also got a 2011 camaro console I'm going with instead of the 73 up one I had. I like the placement of the cup holders, and it has an accessory power port too. I doubt I keep the gauges in it but we'll see.
I also got some flowmaster 2.5" tail pipes to see if I can make them work with my exhaust.
I can't get any of my painting buddies to either lay out stripes on my car, or even to paint them on..... With that being said, I purchased a stencil kit and I'll do it myself. Who knows when that will be. I'm swamped with side work and now we're getting another round of white crap with ice mixed in between rounds. We just got through another pre 0* party too. Is spring here yet? :LOL:
Good progress. And I agree with you on the console choice. It's coming along!
Digitize the gauges
Looking good. Apparently, I missed a few updates. Just spent a few minutes catching up.
That console look like it belongs in there.
I'm new on here 40FordDeluxe, but took the time to read your diesel vette build and was thoroughly impressed with your ability and imagination. I'm following your Camaro build with much interest. It's good to see younger guys playing with cars these days, the future of this hobby is in your hands.
It's update time for the Camaro. You guessed it. It still doesn't run, it is still in pieces, but it is coming along. I got my coil covers installed, scuffed and put on some faux engine ID stickers. Have to throw off the know it alls. :LOL: I started making some LED tail lights. I got all the new suspension put under it. Except now I bought adjustable upper control arms with taller upper ball joints to bring back some of the geometry.
I couldn't leave the 40's wheels and tires on it and I had one heck of a time deciding on what wheel and tire set up to put on this car. I tried going vintage but wanted near 10" wide in the rear. But all the 10" wide wheels in vintage looking stuff gets pricey quick. Since I do plan to auto cross the car some, I went with that route. 18x8s in the front and 18x9.5s in the rear. These are Ridler 650 wheels. I will be bringing the rear down some to help get the gap down and hide the rubber band looking tire. The rear tire is a 285/35r18. I wanted to go taller but was nervous about fitment. When these are smooth I will go taller. :LOL:
I just got done spending a couple more weeks pay checks on the car. I ordered new carpet since I tore mine when I cut the shifter hole. I ordered an American Auto Wire classic update harness for it to get rid of the old wiring and glass fuses. I wasn't happy with the electric fan i had so I got a shroud with dual high volume fans from Custom works performance in California. This car was missing the rocker moldings so i got some of those too. I also got another tilt column since the one I picked up last year was damaged in shipping. I also got a power brake set up for it. I could have lived with the manuals, but I was replacing the MC any way and just decided to play it safe and go power now.
I sent my ecm out to get flashed and have to get working on it so i can schedule a time to go get it dyno tuned. There is a cruise I want to take it on May 11th. I really have to start working on it. :LOL:
You still have al that snow over there?
Looks like good progress. Hope you get it done on time.
When you get that thing tuned you better remember to let me know so I can be there!
All kidding aside.. it's a good looking car Ryan.