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  1. #106
    Mike P's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 Plymouth, 37 Dodge PU, 83 El Camino
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    Rich as far as I know originally the 331, 354 and early 392s would have had WCFBs (don't know the CFM rating on those). The late 392s were supposed to get 575 CFM AFBs.

    My understanding is the all the WCFB cars had synchronized linkage and I'm not sure how the 392s were set up.

    Running the progressive linkage the 57 seems to like the bigger carbs better..... I think in part because I'm running a 4 speed and 4.10 gears.

    Ryan did you get the PM I sent last night?

    The stock valve covers are 3 inches at the tallest point and the aluminum covers are 4 inches. Of course the stockers kind of curve down on both sides where the aftermarket ones are 4" all the way across.


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    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  2. #107
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    Mike, yes I did. Dang it on the VC's. I may not be able to fir them on my 354 later on now. I put the engine too far back.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  3. #108
    Mike P's Avatar
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    Would the moon valve covers that Hot Heads sell maybe work? they are more the profile of the originals than mine are, but I have no idea on what the height would be.

    I have contemplated going to stock VCs on the Plymouth a couple of times.....including when I did the intake swap. It would make life easier if I ever have to pull them off again. The problem is those big old valve covers just look too good sitting between the Plymouth fenders.


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    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  4. #109
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    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  5. #110
    Mike P's Avatar
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    I came across that intake too Ken. It's at $363 with $25 dollars shipping right now and I don't see it going for much more unless someone is really not paying attention.......they are going new for $431 with free shipping on at least a couple of sites.

    The older one you listed earlier ended at $380 (and $32 shipping) which seemed fair.


    ..
    Last edited by Mike P; 04-10-2018 at 03:32 AM.
    NTFDAY and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  6. #111
    Mike P's Avatar
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    As long as we’re talking about Hemi intake manifolds……..I’ve always kind of liked the one off and unusual stuff and there are a few on E Bay right now.

    I’ve seen the 2 carb marine intakes off and on and always thought they would be neat on a 331 in a Rat Rod type project.


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/331-354-392...pazX5G&vxp=mtr


    I’ve also occasionally come across the 4 Stromberg Weiands. These are designed to run synchronized linkage and I understand can be a bit of a challenge to tune. As one friend put it “how can that damn engine run with 2 carbs flooding and 2 backfiring at the same time?????”

    At $1500 for the intake and $300 each on new carbs plus air cleaners and linkage the cost on a new Weiand manifold and FiTech doesn’t sound too bad.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/331-354-392...ZazPEe&vxp=mtr



    The factory 55 and 56 Chrysler 300 are also an interesting design. A friend of mine has one of these over at his shop and I’ve been tempted to see if he would part with it…..course then I’d have to dig up another HEMI to put it on

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-1956-...lamKkA&vxp=mtr


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    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  7. #112
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    It appears that the guy in the last ad you posted has everything you need though I'd bet it 'd be cheaper to drive to Washington than to have it all shipped.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  8. #113
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    That doesn't seem like a bad price for the 56 300B intake from what I've been seeing them go for lately.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  9. #114
    Mike P's Avatar
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    I think I’m finally happy with the carbs. I ended up having to order a couple pair of step rods to fine tune it. They came in today and have been installed and road tested……a couple of times .


    Here’s one for the Mopar guys. I decided that when I do the power steering conversion on the 57 I’d go ahead and change over to one of the smaller Chrysler high torque starters. Chrysler started using them in the late 80s early 90s. They interchange with the older gear reducted starters on both the Small Block and Big block Mopars. I have one on the Hemi in the 37 Dodge and am really pretty impressed with it.

    Anyway I ordered one and when it came in I thought it looked smaller than the one on the 37, so I checked. Sure enough the snout was the same configuration but the starter was quite a bit smaller.

    MS1 by M Patterson, on Flickr


    MS2 by M Patterson, on Flickr

    I figure in this case a bigger motor is better so I’m going with the larger one, it just kind of surprised me a bit about the 2 different styles.



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    Dave Severson likes this.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  10. #115
    v8nutz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Starters are so much smaller these days. The one for my 5.3 looks like a toy.

  11. #116
    Mike P's Avatar
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    ".......Starters are so much smaller these days. The one for my 5.3 looks like a toy. ...."


    Yeah, I know. I'm running one of the down sized ones on the 283 in my Ram 50. sure was nice to have, I don't think I'd be able to get an older full sized one in or out without dropping the exhaust on that truck.

    I went thru an original mid 50s Chrysler Hemi starter earlier this week, I swear it weighed about 15 pounds.


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    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  12. #117
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    Mike, I had a WCFB as stock on a '59 Studebaker Lark Regal 259 V8 3-speed and I seem to remember that is was rated not quite 400 CFM, like 390 or so. It's a tossup whether the WCFB stood for Will Carter Four Barrel or White Cast Four Barrel. NTFDAY (Ken) and I had many fun nights in that car, running around Dayton, Ohio in 1960 and '61. Our favorite prey was '55 and '56 Chevies.
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    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  13. #118
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    We always thought it stood for "Will Call For Backup".. 8-)

  14. #119
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    Mike, they even make gear reduction replacement starters for Class 8 engines. I try to upgrade them every chance I get.


    .
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    Tire Sizes

  15. #120
    Mike P's Avatar
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    Next on the list was mounting the PS pump. The only readily available PS pump bracket out there seems to be the Hot Hemi Heads one, but that is for the newer (small) GM pump with a remote reservoir. PAW used to sell a bracket for the older Saginaw pump that would have been exactly what I needed, but they have been out of business for years now. At least I've still got a copy of their old catalog with pictures so I had a starting point.

    I had originally planned of just building the brackets on the car. I really didn't relish the thought of bending over the fender and radiator and getting everything aligned, drilled, and welded. My ol' buddy Dave (69Bee) came to my rescue however, he was kind enough to loan me an old 331 block, cart to set it on, timing cover and water pump adapters. Between that and the odds and ends I have around here I was able to mock up the short block to use to build the brackets. Sitting on a stool figuring everything out sure beats doing it on car.

    MUPS by M Patterson, on Flickr



    I started out with an old pump I had laying and a pretty common old SBC PS bracket.


    HP1 by M Patterson, on Flickr



    The modifications to the bracket and a couple of smaller support brackets weren't hard to do or complicated, but getting everything aligned took a fair amount of time and tweaking.




    HP3 by M Patterson, on Flickr


    Having the mockup block was a real blessing and definitely worth the time and effort to set up.



    HP2 by M Patterson, on Flickr


    I picked up a rebuilt pump and belt. and ended up using a different pulley than the one I started with but I finally got everything sorted out.

    Bolting it all to the engine was straight forward and I'm happy with the result.......but boy I still wish I had bought one of the PAW brackets years ago when I built the engine.


    HP4 by M Patterson, on Flickr


    I've run out of easy stuff so I guess next is getting the old steering gear out and fitting the 605 box.



    .
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

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