cool old time clamps!
Glad you guys hooked up with the Don's and Dan! They are a good bunch missed here for sure.
cool old time clamps!
Glad you guys hooked up with the Don's and Dan! They are a good bunch missed here for sure.
It won't stop the studs from loosening Roger just the nuts, I just like the look really, the studs are loctited in with blue loctite, they won't ever come out !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
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Amazing machine, and fab work! Great problem solving, please keep posting!
Rich
Not a big deal Steve, but properly installed safety wire would keep the studs from loosening, but technically safety wire would not be allowed on a castle head nut in safety service (aircraft fasteners, military engines, even professional racing, etc) because the hole through the bolt and the slots of the nut create a shear plane on both sides that tends to cut the wire if it loosens. Not saying that it's wrong for your service, but it wouldn't pass QA/QC on a military application. A cotter pin would be used on a castle head, but I think it looks trick, too.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Had another thought while riding the tractor/mower for what I hope is our last mowing of the season... If you want to make it more "authentic" you might consider abandoning the hole through the stud and the castle headed nuts, and invest in a jig to drill across the corner of a polished hex nut for the safety wire. Here's the first that popped up on EvilBay - Safety Wire Pliers Guide Block Universal Nut Jig | eBay You could then wire the nuts such that the wire pulls to tighten, not more than three together, and with the twist on the wire between 6-10 twists per inch. With that, Bob's Your Uncle....... or Auntie :LOL:
I like the milling on the studs and the castle nuts! But, how the heck did you get the safety wire wound that perfect!?
You need safety wire pliers mateQuote:
Originally Posted by 36 sedan
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I know about the pliers, but you're a better man than me at it!
Glad to hear you're back safely and had a great time! Your intake looks great. Nice work fitting the gauges in too.
Not much in the way of progress as still straightening out the cab, it's getting there though
need to have a break from it now and again so looked for something to make, I needed a coolant over flow bottle, yeah I know I could of bought one but I wanted something different So I found a bit of 80mm thick walled tube and cut it into 2 pieces, then onto the lathe to lose some weight and get it down to 1/16" wall, the first piece was turned on the outside and the 2nd piece was bored out till one slid nicely into the
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psw7ufb2nt.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pswuu9jgt6.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psobqpnxfa.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psvfldjkvw.jpg
Next some 2.5" holes were bored and some of the holes elongated.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdgtykkib.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psxrdbbhuo.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps5wftodoc.jpg
A top was turned up and next I turned a bung for the top, this was welded on and blended & fettled to become one piece. Then a base was turned up and it was all ready for welding.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdfkkxgnq.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pskepcdmla.jpg
Here are its all welded together and the welds smoothed out.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pssb4ihn6l.jpg
I found found a neat little drain valve from a Hawker Hunter aircraft so welded in a bung in the base and threaded it to suit.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psr38hglhi.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps2efhdjic.jpg
I welded a tab on and as the drain valve was drilled for wire locking I wire locked it to the tab.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pss798cumx.jpg
The top was tapped for a 3/8" brass pipe fitting which has a bit of copper pipe going up to the rad cap, I added a mounting bracket and here's the finished tank ready to be vapour blasted.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuscrxgli.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psg8kphz1n.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pstzpiaide.jpg
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Awesome work Steve. By the way, how's the foot/ankle treating you now?
Cheers Ryan, got to go back to hospital this coming Friday for more injections, deep joy :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
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Continually amazed at your creativity and approach, Mr Lang! Not sure how you thought of the two layered container, but it ROCKS! Thanks for taking time to post.
No E in my name Roger :LOL: it's just my crazy mind doing overtime :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
The over flow bottle looks great! Your talents keep us all coming back for more. Thank you for sharing.
Shouldn't it have a vent as well?
It will have when it gets here :LOL: I will use a competition engineering rear axle ventQuote:
Originally Posted by ScooterCO
Is there a welding tip or technique you could share, as for how you got penetration through the outer shell, and achieve a perfect seal on the inner sleeve?
I think that I would have cut the outer sleeve short, to leave a gap top and bottom, but it doesn't appear that you did that.
It's probably a novice question, but then, that is my welding and machining ability, so I ask questions.
ah ha i missed a crucial part :LOL: i welded the inner and outer at each end then welded the caps on.Quote:
Originally Posted by firebird77clone
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I used a CE rear axle vent as the vent.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgluce14c.jpg
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Ah, now I see the vent. I like it. Blends well.
Can't do much bodywork due to rain so got to thinking about an interior light, wanted something to continue the theme.
Found a nice milk lense on ebay so that was a start
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psidafjnmz.jpg
next up I plasma cut some rings out of 1/8" aluminium sheet and cleaned them up on the lathe. These were welded together to leave a return for the lens to sit in.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgh4ava3v.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuu1bagcg.jpg
Next holes were drilled for rivets
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psoq22g5pa.jpg
Here it is with the lense fitted
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psfsmvrlgi.jpg
Next a base was made up and welded and a bulb holder attached
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pspegstlku.jpg
Heres the fished light minus the lense as I knocked it off the bench and it shattered into a million bits !!! Luckily I found another on ebay a few minutes ago
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psvnar0zbg.jpg
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:mad::(:(:(:o Sounds like one of my tricks....**)Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
I was gutted Rog, took me ages to find one the right size 3 1/2" diameterQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
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Great work Steve! That stinks about the lens. Good thing you found another. Now get another, and you won't need it as a spare since it's extra. :LOL:
Cheers Ryan, they seem pretty thin on the ground these daysQuote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
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Haven't been around here for any length of time,,for several months,,for one reason or another.. I'm absolutely amazed at the engineering on this pickup,Steve,,and of course,,everything else you build..Absolutely mind boggling stuff,mate.. i wish I had half your talent.. Hey,,also,,kool pic of you and the Dons and Dan,too.. :cool::cool:
The replacement light lens showed up but was slightly smaller so slight modification called for, I spun up a ring to hold the lens and then welded it into the body, the pics tell the story, next step is to get it vapor blasted.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pshcdhpk3r.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psgui1zddj.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pskydkrsfg.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psupdiudrs.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps5twujngc.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...ps9beoxeh7.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psr3rjflin.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psolbgf1qz.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psvjvw5h8h.jpg
I found this little gem on US ebay, havn't a clue whats off but it was complete with cables and working switch, plan is to rechome and fit under bottom of dash.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...pskdi1ipxs.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psbqygijuz.jpg
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...and the light bezel looks even better with the stepped retainer! Lemonade from lemons, I'd say!
Cool little switch group, too.
Ditto Roger's comments. Looks even better now, and cool score on the old dash switches!
Thanks guys, anyone recognise the heater controls ???
Looks like shoebox Ford Steve.Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
And if not that then Mercury from around the same time frame.
Thanks Bob I will investigate furtherQuote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
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Thanks bud, sorry don't know your name ?Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Great work on the lens retainer fix Steve!
Thanks Ryan.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
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Xmas time again so found a bit of time for my own project, I pulled dash out to prep it for paint and looking at it thought it looked a bit bland, so decided to give it a bit more character.
This how it looked
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psbhkxuyfw.jpg
first job was to chop out the instrument section
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psuqlmbbwq.jpg
Next I cut some 1.5mm aluminium sheet into 2 pieces, first one as a backing sheet and the front, then these were tig welded together around the outer edge. I recently invested in a new Miller Dynasty 210 tig welder and one of the really useful functions of this machine the the arc frequency control so this was wound up to 300 and away we went, turned out pretty good for time use.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psflnlgp7w.jpg
I would normally of metal finished the faces before welding but completely forgot to do it but no problem as it will be vapour blasted shortly, the welded edges were blended & fettled to a nice radius and holes drilled for rivets.
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psmhq2nxxn.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...psdbl93eh3.jpg
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Now that's Character! Nice Job.
Great work and I hope you had a Merry Christmas and have a great new year too!
Thanks bud ��Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooting
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Hey thanks Ryan and they same to you and all the other guys and family's here, I'm sorry I've been mia on here lately but the parts side of my business has grown enormously in the last 6 months and it's difficult finding time to get on with my projects, kinda double edged sword :(Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe