A few side by side shots before the body goes on..
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A few side by side shots before the body goes on..
Installing the windshield frame and getting the body back on the frame for the last time..
Here is a little something that most people will never see but i had done by a great friend from So. Calif.. Him and another friend were going to be stopping by the house on their way to Canada for
Deuce Days that they have every three years. Since he's a pin stripper i told him to bring some brush's and he could strip my fan shroud for me.. of course he said yes and then as a joke i said you could strip my transmission too which he said ok... this is the first lay out and color..
Here is the finished parts, and a shot of Phill working... not bad for the price of a hamburger..
These last shots brings me up to date, other than some hushmat and a little more wiring done this is just about as far as i've gotten as of today... You see back in July the wife wanted the house remodeled with new kitchen, new bathroom shower, and new tile floors in the whole house... so i ripped out everything in aug. and while the guys have been putting all then new stuff back in i've tried to get as much done on the car as i could... been living in the garage for the past 5 weeks and just today starting moving stuff back in... i'm sure i'll have to get retrained on where i left off on the car but more it'll come back to me fast... I'll up date as i can from here on out..
Looks like Phil is heavily influenced by Hrones. If you're going to be inspired by someone, emulate the best! He did a nice job.
Yes Bob he did as always.. now i have to take it to him in Jan before the GNRS so he can do the rest...Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
Love all of what you've done,very class!
Something from Gibbon didn't fit? Imagine that. I have a tiny bit of experience with Gibbon products myself - with a long backstory.
You are doing a terrific job on your '34. I'm really excited to see the rest of the progress. Sterling work.
This one's not Gibbon, Jack. That's why it's going together so slick!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Roger, I was referring to the rear pan that had to be cut and fit. I could tell it was N & N from the beginning. I should have quoted the post I was referring to.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Just had me confused - didn't see any mention of Gibbon in this thread, and couldn't see where it was coming from. I forgot about the source of the rear pan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
Jack would love to heard about your long backstory but don't want to get you blood pressure up to high... the roll pan is the only thing i bought from Gibbons and i knew it wouldn't fit going in so i wasn't surprised... as soon as my wife lets me out of the house i'll get to work on it again and shoot some more pictures..glad you like it..
Jack is there somewhere i can see more pictures of your coupe??
Just for a tip; you can see many of Jack's (or anyone else's for that matter) postings by using the "advanced search" feature in the upper right corner of this page. For instance, I typed in "Gibbon" for subject, and "Henry Rifle" for member name and got back a long list of posts that Jack has done mentioning Gibbon. :LOL: In the past 10 years it's been bounced around a LOT, and on many of those re: Gibbon I was right there with him, albeit to a lesser degree. Unfortunately when the site owner changed software formats a few years ago we lost just about all the photo attachments that were great history. Hopefully Jack will post up some fresh ones, or repeats, as he did a very nice job overcoming the difficulties sent his way.
I didn't do a build log, but I've put a few photos on photobucket at this link:Quote:
Originally Posted by parkwood
34 Ford Slideshow by bullseyejack | Photobucket
I also have a short video that ended when the cameraman lost his nerve.
http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/bu...52f45.mp4.html
Didn't intend to hijack your thread . . .
BTW, I'm requesting that comments on my build not be made here. This is Parkwood's thread. I'm just answering his request.
Thanks!
Jack thanks for the pictures and video and it was short... nice way to mess up your interior... and not to worry about hijacking the thread i did it to Rogers thread when i first got on...
I have been working on the coupe and not spending all my time posting pictures of the suburban... It doesn't look like anything is getting done but the wires all falling into place.. For you jack i did get the gibbons roll pan all bolted up with working lights... worked on getting the head lights wired and was going to install the inter fenders today but didn't like the rub out that came on them so i'll be doing a little rubbing on them tomorrow...
Whooooooooooooo------I've been delaying working on Robins 33 3 door until I could get some room for it and a couple others inside the shop and make this winter for us instead of doing things for other people---and I been working around trying to get away from my California Charger TF image and make her car just a clean everyday driver-- after the posts on CHR the past few weeks, I'm srta leaning away from that idea and thinking about maybe a polished q/c and headers/sidepipes like I built for a customers car that is pic'd in my gallery--------If She (note the capital S) would pick blue as a color I would probabily go down that path but she seems to want a candy red so I am able to resist the urge to go for the best of show and just do the driver(non trailer) BUT, I do have 2 more frames with roadster bodies plus one with a cabrilae? body and I do want to make one with a Hemi and a Flathead that I can interchange at random intervals(one license/title,paint,upholstry)----
And its all Parkwoods fault to cause this urge to surface--------------------
Oh Jerry..........................................stop fighting it. Draw additional inspiration from one of your contemporaries of racing years gone bye (albeit a different class most of the time)...............Big John Mazmanian. Candy red, lots of polish, and still functional! Just do it!!
All that shiny is definitely sweet!
I just learned something....I found out where Shingle Springs is located. Cool area with a lot of history.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Jerry you sound like my wife alway blaming me for stuff.... glad i got he juices flowing again... keeps you young... by the way i loved the 5 window in your gallery..
Yes Ryan take a good look it'll never be this clean again....Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
Well i did get a little something done today, got the inter fenders color sanded again and rubbed out and install late today..got the steering column in and the last of the wiring for the turn switch made up the only bad thing was when we went to test all the light we couldn't get the turn signals to flash they just came on bright and that was it... I'm using LED lights and found out that there wasn't enough draw on the light to make the flasher work.. called the hot rod shop i deal with in Sacramento and have to run down there monday morning and pick up a flasher made for LED lights...other than that all seem to be good.. with a little luck one day next week will be start up day..
Your steering column is one of my favorites, have one stashed in a cabinet. It was originally designed and made by Gregg Seaholm when he had a shop in Tacoma years ago. He sold the design to Mullin, and of course Borgeson now has it. Such a clean look!
Yes Bob i love the looks of the column too.. Thanks for the history lesson on it, didn't know all that.. I did buy it from Borgeson along with the 4 spoke wheel..Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter
It appears that you're cooling your transmission with a dual finned heat-sink cooler and no coil in the radiator. Is that the case? If so, do you have experience that says that setup will work OK? I ask because my '34 radiator doesn't have a coil, and I have a fin-type cooler in front of the radiator. I need the space for an A/C condenser, and am looking for another way to cool my 700R4. The other problem with my current setup is that the trans almost never registers on my 100F-250F temperature gauge. I don't have a lot of miles on my car, but I understand that running a 700R4 too cold is not good.
Sorry for the diversion, but the question popped up when I was admiring your assembled chassis. BTW, your whole project is aces. Pro quality build.
I've also wondered about these types of log type coolers. My biggest issue in the diesel world with the radiator or coolant type coolers is that your atf will remain near the same temp as your coolant. If you're towing and the coolant is over 190*, this exceeds many OE specs for the tranny fluid and can cause failures. But like you mentioned, too cold of a temp could cause issues. I'm not real sure on a 700R4, but the biggest issue I've ever had with too cold of temps on a vehicle I've bypassed the radiator or coolant based cooler, was it took longer than usual for the TC to lock up, and that was due to having to wait for the trans to warm up. Other than that, unless high pressure taking seals out is an issue, I wouldn't know what other issue there would be?
If you run the hot trans fluid through the radiator then through the cooler, the returning trans fluid temp should be 40-50* cooler than the engine thermostat setting. With no heat exchanger in the radiator and no way to install one, coupled with the limited space under the car for something else, I just may be screwed. Or, at least looking at a very expensive fix - again.
As long as there no issues in your trans, your fluid shouldn't be getting that hot to need it to be cooled 50* unless you are towing or making a pass in my opinion. Most well respected trans shops want their transmissions to run below 165* to keep failure down. Most times in a well built trans with no fluid type exchanger and an external cooler somewhere, the temps on the trans fluid won't get hot enough to move the trans temp needle. It can really make you think your gauge isn't working. :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
My trany operates fine on a remote cooler mounted under my running boards, not through the radiator at all.
And, I've seen the trany cooler mounted in the trunk with a thermostatically controlled fan on it. A small fan could allow you to mount it almost anywhere.
Ryan and Jack, to answer Jacks question about the cooler i'm running i called the guy who built my transmission today and talked to him about it... I ask him if he thought the cooler i had on my car was good enough to cool the 700r4 and he said yes because of the way he built it and set it up... He told me that it should run between 140-230 degrees. He was telling me that a converter with a High stall and one thats small in diameter will cause more heat than than one with a lower stall and one thats bigger... He put a vacuum switch on mine that makes it work just like your new cars and trucks.. It locks up the converter just like a new car which he says will not cause heat build up.. If its not in lock up thats where the heat comes from. I'll see if i can take a picture of it tomorrow and post it.. These are light cars so to speak and if you're not racing it or pulling a trailer don't know why you would have any problem... On the '33 roadster i built i only had a B&M cooler mounted to the frame rail and just a little bit of an angle to help the air move though it and had no problem with the trans in it, but i was also running a 350 trans too...This guy who built my trans has over 40 years working on them and i've got 0 so i kind of trust what he's telling me.. If there is anything you would like to know i would gladly ask him for you..
Parkwood, my trans is a Bowtie Overdrives 700-R4 Level 2 with their 2400 stall high performance converter. I don't have a vacuum switch, but the trans is wired for converter lockup in 4th gear. It unlocks with a brake pressure switch. I also have a toggle switch on the dash to lock it up in the other three gears. I do have the wiring diagram that incorporates both manual toggle and vacuum switches. It's been a while since I worked on the wiring, so I'll have to take a look. Thanks for the info.
I had my 700R4 set up so that lockup is controlled hydraulically--no wiring needed. Doing it this way means that it automatically locks up in every gear, but that is not something I find objectionable. The only thing that took some getting used to is if I run it through the gears to blow out the cob webs, when it locks up it feels almost like a shift in the middle of each gear. I have been running it with a tube-type aluminum cooler for ten years with no issues.
Lynn,
I'm not in a position to have my trans reworked, but I can add a vacuum switch pretty easily. Now, if I can just find a place to put the cooler . . .
why don't you have a cooler put into your lower radiator ?????????? Besides it being a "COOLER" it is also a "PREHEATER" to make sure the trans fluid is warm-once the trans is in high gear and up to speed, there isn't anything creating heat to keep the fluid warmed up to operating temp----------
And I think we should use the term "HEAT EXCHANGER" instead of "COOLER"
This is where I mounted my "heat exchanger" (that is a good term for that, Jerry). It is between two and three inches from the side of the frame.
Jerry, this radiator is an odd shape. It conforms exactly to the shape of the grille shell, so the bottom tank is roughly a triangle 15" wide x 9" high x 3" thick. When I was building the car, I took it to a custom radiator shop and they told me they couldn't do it and recommended the external cooler. I'm going to have to give this some more thought.
Lynn, my coupe is channelled, and there isn't much room under the car.
I don't want to hijack parkwood's thread any longer, so if I have other questions or comments, I'll start a new thread. Thanks to all of you for your thoughts and advice.
Hey don't worry about hi jacking my thread, runs my count up and makes me feel like a big shot... ha