'37 Oze build

It might be an inlet air temp especialy if its when the fan kicks on------not that the fan is causing it, but that an temp sensor might be faulty-


most mass air flow sensor controls are pretty good unless you have an vacume leak or severe temp control issue




I can't tell from the pics I've seen where your Mass airflow sensor is located , but if it is down in those pipes/bends---you may be able to correct it somewhat by clocking the sensor to a different side of the tube-----------We have had a few occasions where the maf was located near a bend that the rotation of it solved a lot of flow sense erratic readings-----------


Just in case your questioning my comments---------My son Corey does all the NicKey Chicago Camaros and I quite often assist him when there are unusual set ups-------

Removed by author.

Corey is picking up an engine from here tomorrow and I'll try to remember to show him this pic-----------

Showed Corey the pic this morning---suggested that tables probably needed to be flow calibrated/compensation----------and suggested that you could undo the two outside wires on the maf as they are for temp and put a temp sensor up nearer the engine--if you tell me what ECM you have he can then give you the temp sensor number as I guess there are different calibrations depending on the ecm----what ever happened to the temp/ohms standard????????????


A couple suggestions from me----------you are at Loveland and I don't remember the altitude there but at higher alts and temps I know things get much more sensitive dealing with horsepower and air/fuel ratios--------and since now ambient temps are fairly cool and when your fan kicks on pulling hot air (180*+) from the rad and covering the airfilter with it, it must be a pretty sudden severe chance and the ecm may be going into the limp mode-----------


A thought or two ----can you reverse the tube so the sensor is further from the filter?????might have to turn the map around(considering that its correct orientation now?)


And further----can you re arrange both of those elbows to where the filter is on top of the engine ? This would get the inlet up into more steady air, especially for when you get a hood on it-----


anyway, waiting for the ecm number---will be a letter followed by two digit number---example E38-----

Removed by author.

Those things are really sensitive to air path changes. Try taking the air filter off to see if it makes a change. The factory recommends the MAF at the END of a 6" straight section in order for the air turbulence to stabilize. The bends cause the air to go fast on the long side and slow on the short radius side....making turbulence. For my 39, we had fits with the bends. We tried the LS3 MAF, an aftermarket programmable MAF, and a GM 15900024 MAF. Steve Sbelgio had probably 40 hours + in the tune to get it nice. The factory tune is based on some air tract and filter design (such as the Corvette) and adding bends will affect the game. Your shield idea will help consistency.

mike in tucson

Removed by author.

Removed by author.

I had the same MAF at the start of my adventure, went to three different programmable units (aftermarket) purchased from Summit and finally now have the 15900024 GM part. Mine had a similar problem of difficulty stabilizing idle coming off a throttle open situation. We tried locating the MAF different locations to find stable air. Turbulence really screws up the MAF reading....it needs laminar flow. If you look at a newer corvette, the air path is from the entry, thru the filter, and a gentle
curve into the throttle body. For mine, we ended up with two corvette paper filters but several bad 90 degree bends.

here is a pic of the installation on my 39

Removed by author.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daveS53

So far, the parking brake is not working well. I did my best to route the cable housings with large-radius bends, to minimize friction, but the only way to get any holding power is to pull really hard on the lever - so hard you really need two hands, not just one.

Drum adjustment is not the issue. I can pry on the actuation lever at the drum with a screwdriver and get some braking force, with only a 1/4 inch or so of lever travel.

Anyone else had this problem?

---

Yep! No matter what I've tried it doesn't get any better. I've got Wilwood brakes, disc X disc with the small brakes shoes in the center of the hat. It meets the spirit of a parking brake, but I can promise you it will never hold back the car.:mad:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 34_40

Yep! No matter what I've tried it doesn't get any better. I've got Wilwood brakes, disc X disc with the small brakes shoes in the center of the hat. It meets the spirit of a parking brake, but I can promise you it will never hold back the car.:mad:

---

Mike I think if we went back to the OEM explanation of the "center hat" brake on the disc rotor that was given in the Owner's Manual it is a "Parking Brake", and not an "Emergency Brake" intended to stop the car. Lokar calling their product an "Emergency Hand Brake Lever" is probably a misnomer. Mine does fine to keep the car from rolling, even on a hill, but if forgotten it will not keep the car from pulling away in gear, which is a bad thing for the little brake shoes.

Dave, to answer your questions in Post 211, the coil covers are edelbrock. The accessory drive is Vintage Air Frontrunner and yes, the PS pump is low. My engine is a GM LS3 with the hot cam....GM says 480 hp but I need more....next time, I will do the supercharged GM crate motor.

Removed by author.

The MAF doesnt care what is downstream....the MAF can be at the end of the 12" straight insetead of the middle. I suggest trying it like you have it now and, if there is still some issue, moving it to the end of the straight section. From what we found, the calibration is done on some air tract setup, probably a Corvette. Bends screw up the flow by making turbulence. Their suggestion to place the MAF at the end of a straight section is to allow the air to straighten back out after a bend. On mine, we had a bad situation of a 90 deg turn inside the air box immediately followed by another 90 deg bend to go forward. This really cause a bad tornado inside the air duct, making it hard to get a good MAF reading. The aftermarket programmable units take a sample across the duct and can average the readings. The problems with the aftermarket MAF were that we had two suffer early death.....or were dead on arrival. The third one ran but we were gun shy and went back to the GM parts bin.

Removed by author.

Yes, my idle is high...not sure what it is however...all the ECM changes were done in LA by Steve Sbelgio in Whittier. When we took the car to him, it would barely pull from a dead stop on an uphill grade. His changes made the car really tractable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

Mike I think if we went back to the OEM explanation of the "center hat" brake on the disc rotor that was given in the Owner's Manual it is a "Parking Brake", and not an "Emergency Brake" intended to stop the car. Lokar calling their product an "Emergency Hand Brake Lever" is probably a misnomer. Mine does fine to keep the car from rolling, even on a hill, but if forgotten it will not keep the car from pulling away in gear, which is a bad thing for the little brake shoes.

---

That's why I said "Meets the spirit of a parking brake", it'll hold the car from rolling while in neutral. But you can drop it in any gear and drive right over it no matter how hard you pull on that lever. It won't pass our state inspection working like that.. but as long as my buddy keeps his inspection station going, I shouldn't have a problem..

Removed by author.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daveS53

Right now, my brake will hold in reverse, but not any forward gear. That test doesn't seem like the real purpose of a parking brake.

---

Usually, drums hold better going forward than they do in reverse, could you have possibly reversed the sides?

I thought that I had entered a post earlier today about switching sides or possibly just reversing the primary/secondary shoes but evidently went on to something else before it posted----

Plus in the old days of rear drum brakes, you only had to press down on the pedal and then set the hand lever------

Removed by author.

the shorter lined shoe is normally on the front side on drum brakes.

Removed by author.

You haven't asked for any comments or suggestions, but why would you put your MAF in the center of the straight run? Wouldn't it make more sense to locate it at the end of the straight run, just before entering the bend, just past your weld? It's been stated about a dozen times that the sensors want to see laminar flow, and are extremely sensitive to turbulence, so why not take advantage of all the straight run you have?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rspears

You haven't asked for any comments or suggestions, but why would you put your MAF in the center of the straight run? Wouldn't it make more sense to locate it at the end of the straight run, just before entering the bend, just past your weld? It's been stated about a dozen times that the sensors want to see laminar flow, and are extremely sensitive to turbulence, so why not take advantage of all the straight run you have?

---

That is why you do it the easy way and eliminate the MAF all together and find a tuner that knows what he is doing. I personally hate MAF sensors and everything I have stuck a GEN 3 or 4 LS engine in gets run SD.

At your altitude the maf sensor is a vital element along with the map and O2 sensors for the rapid tuning in the elevation changes---


as for the engine stalling as you come to a stop---try raising the idle a little---most of the late model NicKey cars seem to remember that they idle at aprox 850rpm--it could be that you will need to tweque the throttle body just a bit-----


If you want, I'll ask Corey if he'll take a look at your scan and maybe give you some suggestions. I do know that they take a lot of time working out the maf numbers because they all seem to be effected by dozens of fitment issues

Removed by author.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by daveS53

If I follow the instructions, I can't be blamed for the engine not running right.

---

Deleted. No comment.:rolleyes:

Removed by author.

Dave, great looking build and even though you're having some issues (to be expected) it still sounds like you're having loads of fun. I'm planning to pick up one of OZE's 37 coupes myself but from reading your posts it really looks like the build quality may have gone down. Considering all the issues, do you still think you made the right choice with an OZE glass body?

Removed by author.

I found this site a few days ago and have spent a considerable amount of time reading all your posts on this build "good stuff". Some things that you've identified with the build quality are : - / (not so great) and it really sounds like Tim and the folks at OZE should consider adding metal into the door construction to make things a little easier. I agree, investing 80 hours into a door isn't the most productive way to spend your time but in the end, you might be happier with functional windows.

Really looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the window channel.

Removed by author.

Once you get your doors mounted and gapped in "final" position it really helps to drill two nominal 1/16" holes through your inner door panel & hinge to facilitate alignment when you pull the doors again. You hang the door, jockey it around to insert a finishing nail in your alignment holes, and snug your hinge bolts. Works for the deck lid, too. Usually works best to drill them before you take them apart the first time, but that assumes they're aligned right when you get it....

Removed by author.

DO drill the alignment holes. You can then take off and reinstall doors in minutes and get an immediate perfect alignment. Saves hours of time on reassembly and no wear and tear on the nerves getting aggravated trying to realign them and no damage paint from sliding the door all around trying to get it aligned again. I have always used the short 1/8" drill bits you get at a body shop supply house. I drill three holes in each hinge just to make sure I get exact alignment later, then on reassembly just stick these short drill bits in all the holes of the door and hinge and tighten the hinge bolts and you are done. Been doing this for 20 years and always get perfect alignment on assembly ( assuming I had perfect alignment before drilling the holes of course :-) )

I did exactly what you are thinking about for your window sweepers on my Oze car. I used the 3/4 inch aluminum bent to the curve of the door and bonded to the fiberglass of the door then glued the sweeps to the aluminum using the tube of adhesive used for installing windshields. The car came with felt sweeps for both sides of the window but I wanted rubber on the outside to help keep more water out of the door and electric window mechanism, etc. so I bought a long section of the type of rubber sweep used on 1970's Chevelles for the outside sweep and used the felt sweeps on the inside. Looked like a perfect factory door installation when I got done and window sealed up nice.

Sorry to hear about all the hours getting your windows mechanism and window channel installed. Oze from Canada had all that installed and windows running up and down perfectly when I bought mine. The new guys are really cutting corners on their product.

Removed by author.

My Oze and the 32 Ford glass car I am building now does have brackets at the bottom of the channel to hold channel in place so window always comes down in the exact same place each time and has no movement when in down position.

you are probably right on the space needed to get the window out in the door with a frame. when I take windows out of regular production cars (Chevelle, Camaro, etc.) I always remove the window felts first. My Oze was hardtop so I didn't have that issue to contend with. But once glass is in on final assembly it is very unlikely it will need to be taken out again. Most cars are run for decades without removing the door window glass. Being a street rod this will surely happen sooner though and a cutting out of the existing window felts and installing new felts would be necessary unless you can squeeze glass in with felts installed.