it would take 20 min to swap the a arms side to side.
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it would take 20 min to swap the a arms side to side.
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What extreme negative caster? If the upper & lower A-arms were installed per spec you had one degree of positive caster, but your measurements told you that the lower A-arm was 1/2" too far forward, and the upper was 1/4" too far back. You then cut the lower, and shifted the upper as noted, which tilted the ball joint line forward creating negative caster.
Dave, it's obvious that you've convinced yourself that you're right, so continuing to point out the problems here is fruitless. I think you're headed for a train wreck, but for me I'll not bother you further about anything you're doing here. I wish you best of luck in the rest of your build.
With all your experience and expertise, why are you asking???Quote:
Originally Posted by daveS53
If the builder did a terrible job, talk to your attorney.
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One thing about nuclear bombs is you don't have to be very accurate
Dave, let me pass on to you and any others who may be interested----------your working with the rear end first is totally ass backwards---you really should of established a centerline of the chassis from one end to the other---you could do that with a piece of welding, wire, aircraft safety wire, etc---then work on the front end---it is not uncommon to have an inch of difference in the wheel base side to side--------work with the chassis level and at a ride height from a work table/jig/etc---
assemble/evaluate the front suspension thru its entire travel arc at all positions of height---
with the front end worked out, then you work on the rear end so that the wheel alignment is parallel front and back again making sure that it remains so thru out the up/down and twist side to side looking for any binding in the travel and there will be some-------a board between a tire and the frame rail is not the way to do it---check your wheel run out axle run out for any wobble that the hard parts do----the rubber tire is just that, a rubber tire----it is nothing to use when your dealing with fabrication and alignment issues also plan ahead for issues with u-joint drive line angles--------
Its pretty hard to write a short version on probably what should be hundreds of pages---------
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Dave-------------you can't run those long upper bolts thru those upper A-arm ends at those angles-get some rod ends like heims or something similar so the bolt can align with the center of the bushings----------
I was only being funny about accuracy with a nucleur bomb------------I know a little bit about some of that --
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Dave--how far offset is the pinion??????????? Do you mean that the housing lump is centered resulting in the pinion being offset????What is the length of the driveshaft??????????
and I love digital levels and all sorts off lazor stuff
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Dave----You can tip the tire in at the bottom to get the top out----I used to have to not only do that for the slicks on my 59 ford but had to reach behind the wheel and get out the brake drum for a little more clearance---then when the slick was up in the fender well, put the brake drum back on the axle and then the wheel---might not work for you but just thinking---of course back in those days (early 60s) nuclear stuff was at the height of every country's priorities---
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Dave . . . not sure if this idea would work for you or not; but with tyres/rims that need that sort of manipulation I've found a shovel to be very good at making things easier.
Slide the blade curved-side-up underneath the tyre, put one foot on the handle, and swing/swivel the tyre on the blade, lifting or dropping your foot at the same time as appropriate.
Might not look very dignified; but it works in most cases!
Just a thought.
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Looks like you've been busy! And while I thank you for the pictures, can I ask for a different angle /view? The effect on the rear fenders is hard to picture /imagine with a close up. And the tailpipes aren't really visible at this angle.
Hope you don't think I'm complaining! I'm just trying to see the same thing as you and what you're after!!! TIA
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Those pics are quite a bit better thank you! It's looking good from here! Those fenders will add a nice custom touch and separate you from the herd..
It sure aggravates me to see you had to spend all that time fitting your rear fenders. I did nothing but bolt my fenders up and had a perfect fit to the body with the Oze I bought back in 2007. No body work of any kind done in that area of car. The only fixing I had to do was a couple inches on the left cowl area where it meets the hood which took maybe 10 minutes to fix. No other bondo (two part surface enhancer as Chip Foose calls it) in the whole car. Don't see how the new Oze owners can take the same molds the old owners used and screw things up so bad. I scuffed up the glossy fiberglass, a little spot putty where I sanded down the seams from the fiberglass mold, primed a couple real heavy coats and wet sanded to a show car straightness. Less time spent preparing for paint than any car I have ever built. I did the slant back model and was considering doing the coupe in the future but with all the trouble you are having I sure won't ever consider it any more.
http://www.daytonagary.com/37/leftfront.jpg
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Unless the troubles with the product were my own doing, if I was having as much trouble as you I would be talking to my attorney and the State's Attorney General where Oze is located.
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I know the molds for the coupe are different than my slantback but the original Oze in Canada produced a coupe just as good out of the molds as mine was with little or no bodywork and no thin fiberglass. I bought my car from the Oze dealer that was in northern Alabama and drove up to his shop before I purchased my car and closely inspected the coupe he had assembled and on display which was in fiberglass only, no bondo or paint etc. on it and it was perfect from the Oze factory in Canada. I ordered my car when I saw the quality of the product. Ordered in June and drove back up to get it the first of September. I thought the Corey and other guys in the Atlanta area who build junk 32 and 34 Fords were bad (and they really are total junk with weeks of work and gallons of bondo to make them presentable) but they build a masterpiece compared to what you got from the new Oze company.
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Originally Posted by 36 sedan
In a perfect world, that would be the answer!!! However in our real world suing and winning a company for poor quality is seldom a winnable case unless there is proof of false advertising.... The company's attorney shoots it down with the fact that quality is subjective, not objective, and as Daytonagary implied in his post, "let the buyer beware". Buying anything without knowing the past history of the product from it's current manufacturer, or not personally looking it over and assuring it meets your own standards of quality is still the best way to make purchases and prevent situations like this...
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here is photo of Oze I built. only bondo used was on each side of the cowl to match the curvature of the hood that was off from the factory. All other white you see is just thin (1/16 to 1/32 thick) spot putty to make it perfect for show car straightness. front of rear fenders, matching doors flush with rear quarters and finish the sanding area on all parting lines left by the mold. Canada did a much better job. Inside I had to do some work on the front of doors so it matched the dash perfectly. A golf ball size of bondo and little more of that in spot putty and it was ready to prime, wet sand and paint.
http://www.wwwp.com/MVC-003F.JPG
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OOOOOOooo.. that's the pits
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Always a blast for that first ride or start up! Certainly a milestone.
It's coming along very nicely! I bet it feels great to drive it some!
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