All I can say is WOW!!! AMAZING!
Printable View
All I can say is WOW!!! AMAZING!
you are a metal Master !
Thanks for the comments guys!!
Sorry for the hiatus, more travel for the day job.. hanging more TV's...
Back on the wagon, sometimes I get ahead of myself. The core support has rounded corners at the bottom....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_6936.JPG
Our embossing did not....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_0676.JPG
So the lower embossing was flattened, and marked for the new..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1094.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1098.JPG
Next on the list, our upper radiator hose is a bit long and needed some support to keep it out of the fan. It's actually a lower hose for a Ford Explorer, but is a perfect fit for our cross flow radiator. So some 16 gauge cold rolled steel is used to fabricate a support bracket..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1173.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1174.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1176.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1177.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1178.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1179.JPG
Next, we had moved the battery from the OEM location on the firewall to the dealer installed Air Conditioning location behind the core support. This has the battery in close proximity to the passenger side header, so we punched some louvers on the core supports side baffle to allow for air flow.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1196.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1197.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1202.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1203.JPG
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qFVXdLLeOc
awesome as always
Thanks! A side distraction, I had a request from a buddy in Wisconsin to make a snout for an air cleaner to increase the available intake air. Loosely based on the OEM 55 Chevy breather, this snout would be used to modify an existing 55 breather to accommodate a healthier than stock engine and still appear stock-ish.. The tube on a stock breather uses a seam at the bottom (6 o'clock) of the tube.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1240.jpg
Factory seam in the tube...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1264.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1263.jpg
The seam looks like the lockformer that I have original Pullmax tooling for..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1139.JPG
Test sample....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1135.JPG
A test piece to check the dimensions. Got to use some of that High school geometry....
Lockformer dies - YouTube
Our redneck slip roll used to bend the tube....
October 12, 2021 - YouTube
Hammer form made for the bell end of the snout that will fit inside the tube and be spot welded together...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1210.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1212.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1214.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1223.jpg
The Bell fits inside the tube, and we also need a mounting flange that will fit outside the tube. So a drum sander is used to open up the hammer form for the larger size.. This flange mount will be trimmed and welded into the breather with the tube spot welded into the flange.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1224.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1228.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1245.JPG
The part was sent to the owner for the "assembly". He trimmed the mounting flange and mocked up to the breather....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1979.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1978.JPG
Breather hole trimmed...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1356.jpg
Mockup...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1357.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1358.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1359.jpg
And in primer....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1361.jpg
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1362.jpg
Looks almost stock!!
Most excellent work!
I agree. Awesome work once again Mr. Robert!
You are the Wizard of METAL!
I peeked behind the curtain, you are a wizard!
It's beautiful, but clearly not stock.
Kudos.
Thanks guys!
Wagon progress! So Jared has been tackling the fun task of prepping interior trim pieces, getting them ready for another round of epoxy..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1476.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1479.JPG
Another modification we're undertaking, the air cleaner, when mocked up on the engine, showed a tight proximity to the back of the AC compressor. Looking at the clearance we had to the firewall, moving backward 1" will give us much needed breathing room for the AC lines. So out with the old ....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1564.JPG
And to move rearward, the mounting hole is moved forward one inch..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1568.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1569.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1570.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1572.JPG
Next in store is a new bottom for the air cleaner..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1575.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1580.JPG
A hammerform is used to give us a folded lip out the bottom
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1582.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1585.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1588.JPG
https://youtu.be/QPLDGIxJAYk
https://youtu.be/Zm6TIkxDDUA
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1595.JPG
At this point we need to hem the flange so the bottom isn't quite so sharp..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1595.JPG
A 1/2 x 1/2 aluminum angle is used as a height gauge so we can use the roloc sander to get our flange to a consistent height. This will allow us to use a tipping die in the bead roller to fold the hem..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1596.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1599.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1600.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1607.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1609.JPG
Then the part is re-installed in the hammer form to hammer the hem flat..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1610.JPG
https://youtu.be/eScyS2lkfOU
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1615.JPG
So I've had some questions as to why this or that with modifying the air cleaner. I was going to hold out with the REAL reason, but here goes.... This firewall is just too clean that I can't bring myself to clutter it up (or the wheelwell) by mounting an ignition coil and then being forced into using an overly long coil wire..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_8282(1).JPG
So as shown here.... this will be the approximate location as we fabricate a sealed cavity from the bottom side of the air cleaner to mount the coil. This should put the coil wire about two inches in front of the distributor...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_1616(1).JPG
So this should give us a nice clean look and keep the firewall as open as we can...
Time for some welding.. TIG used to tack the new bottom in place.....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1656.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1659.JPG
I thought my eyesight was going.... time to replace these..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1660.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1663.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1665.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1667.JPG
Next, we'll work on the base plate....
More work on the Caddy air cleaner, time to fabricate the pocket for the coil. Our radius brake that is bolted to the front of the shear is used to bend some 18ga into a horseshoe. One side is trimmed short and the other is left long to bend and form the bottom in the magnetic brake.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1702.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1689.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1690.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1691.JPG
And end plate is cut out to seal off the void from the rest of the air cleaner innards. This gets tacked in place and then fusion welded using the TIG.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1695.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1699.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1701.JPG
A holesaw is used to get the hole started and offset Wiss snips to trim out the hole in both the housing and the mounting flange. TIG tacked and fusion welding on the flange, and it then gets trimmed to fit inside the air cleaner housing.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1703.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1705.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1706.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1707.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1708.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1709.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1713.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1714.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1717.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1716.JPG
Yup, that's what I was looking for...
As always. your (and the crews) work is out of this world.. do you anticipate the weight of the coil causing any flex in the housing?
Just curious how rigid it's become.
When it was made we put some crown in the bottom panel to provide such support. So it should stay put. :fingerscrossed:
I continue to be amazed! Those fusion welds are a thing of beauty! Excellent, and great use of space too!
Thanks fellas.. Keeping fingers crossed that this thing works as planned..
Now for our bottom plate for the air cleaner.. In order to keep the filter located properly (keep it from moving around) we decided to add a bead to the bottom of the plate.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1721.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1727.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1729.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1730.JPG
Then the plate is trimmed to a circle, and the thumbnail dies in the Lennox used to start the shrinking process around the edge.
https://youtu.be/Vy30NeziryY
We then jumped on the Erco kick shrinker to flatten the uneven surface..
https://youtu.be/B1Jg_9BfDNc
https://youtu.be/Xlu2LsUNcj0
And repeat. Repeatedly. We have two or three more rounds to go and we can start tipping and stretching.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1740.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1747.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1751.JPG
Last night we changed out the thumbnail shrinking dies for linear stretch dies in the Lennox TE250 in order to tip the flange back horizontal again. We have a backstop / fence that had been notched for tooling and this did a nice job of getting the flange depth consistent.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1767.JPG
As this gets bolted to our linear slide and we'll need that to remain stationary, some Cerutti built clamp blocks are added.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1764.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1765.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1766.JPG
Linear stretch dies in action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-euPrCTj9zI
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1783.JPG
Next, we had been having issue with the Skat Blast cabinet, and given the sale going on this week at TP Tools, ordered a new high volume cabinet gun and nozzle, some high flow fittings, and while we're at it, how about some fresh glass..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...)_IMG_1775.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1789.JPG
Amazing....we can see!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1778.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1777.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1779.JPG
But alas, all the new parts did not fix the losing media about 5-10 seconds in. So we figured this was a blockage with the suction tube, which requires removing the expanded metal deck inside. Which has sealant along front and rear edge. So a handy utility knife was employed, along with this fancy tool we had made up for removing tiles in raised flooring, as it did well in pulling up the expanded metal.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1328.JPG
The screen was tipped up out of the way and a large magnet holds it in place...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1784.JPG
Once we had access to the pickup tube, we noticed a hole in the inside corner that didn't belong.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1786.JPG
Once we removed the tube, we noticed it was more widespread...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1787.JPG
Well, I guess we have found the suction/media issue, and now have a used High flow gun/nozzle for sale. Luckily the sale is still going on, ordered the replacement tube last night..
I did price materials... The replacement was too cheap and it has lasted the past 20 years...
Now to fold the outer perimeter of our air cleaner base. I thought of using a tipping wheel, but that appeared to be rather close for comfort. So a curved piece of bar stock in the scrap pile (resource inventory) was selected and a drum sander used to fine tune the radius to match our part.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1798.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1800.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1801.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1805.JPG
Then a hammer form was made to stretch and shape the "horn" of the base. Quite a bit of stretch needed but you don't know until you try...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1816.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1817.JPG
Video of hammer action:
https://youtu.be/am3PNWl467o
Alas, cracking occurred, so the horn was trimmed just down from the radius and a piece of 18ga was hemmed, rolled, and welded, to form a band. The band was tacked up for a test fit, we'll get it fully welded tomorrow and get all the parts bolted up with some rivnuts and press nuts..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1833.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1835.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1848.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1852.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1851.JPG
Yesterday we got our replacement tube from TP Tools for the Skat Blast 1536 cabinet. Can't remember the last time it worked like this, so I'd guess we've had a "leak" for a while now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VWNn523SDc
And since we replaced the nozzle unnecessarily, we now have a good used media blast cabinet gun for sale. Has the High Volume power head (20-25 cfm required) and tungsten carbide nozzle, if anyone needs one. I think $50 plus shipping would be fair. No trigger, intended for use with foot pedal. For a hopper/suction machine, it does work nicely..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1847.JPG
I know some of the things I've seen you do in this thread were over the top... but that one above is out of this world!
More travel for the day job, had to install a 24' video wall. Back in the shop finally, progress on the air cleaner continues.. We had some stainless mesh left over from our speaker grill fabrication that we plan on using to address air flow inside our pocket for the ignition coil.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1883.JPG
An 1-1/2" Rotacut is used to provide the hole in the pocket, two pilot holes spaced 1/2" apart will expand the hole for us.. The venturi effect inside the breather should promote air flow across the coil.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1886.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1887.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1888.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1889.JPG
Next, to hold the mesh in place some retaining rings will be needed. We'll use some MDF trimmed to size to fabricate these...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1894.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1897.JPG
Or the action version....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9xRENMU9l8
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1898.JPG
The newly formed part has a tight hold on the hammer form, so much that we can clamp it in the vise, drill the two pilot holes to match the pocket, and drill out two 1-1/2" Rotacut holes without the part budging..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVM_iv-XZdw
The dynabride belt sander cleans up the points into flats, the side flanges are trimmed to size with a roloc sander, and then we can roll to fit the inside of the pocket.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyHC0p9NKrE
test fit....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7DxT-oGXcfk
Holes are added for some 3/32 rivets to clear the mesh
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1944.JPG
Aluminum pop rivets are used to get a better view of the final look before we blow it apart for priming..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_1952(1).JPG
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9-Hp-O925M
We will be using press nuts in the coil to ease the pain of assembly, and we also added some more shiny stuff on the front end..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1869.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1872.JPG
You make everything you do look so effortless. Always cool to read and learn from your build threads
I agree.. this build certainly stretches the imagination as to the limits of what could be. Well done Robert.
What Steve and Mike said.
I'm going to go into withdrawal when you finish this project.
For your continued entertainment :LOL: , the next project will be a 1954 Divco milk truck.. We do have a FEW dents to fix...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albu...-02-21_003.jpg
This truck had two small rust spots smaller than a pencil eraser to fix. A tornado went through the area and the shear force winds pushed the barn over that it was being stored inside..
That should make for an interesting project. I remember them from my youth when milk was delivered at your door in glass containers.
your metal work is fabulous !!!
Robert, more outstanding work as usual. You definitely make it look easy.
Thanks for checking out our progress fellas!!
Some equipment repairs were in order over the New Year's break, our tried and true Lathem time clock in the shop had given up the ghost. In speaking to Lathem, this model has been obsolete for some time and the only parts available are the print ribbon and a replacement motor. Doesn't help me with this little part...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1958.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1969.JPG
Quite used to this lack of availability in car parts, how hard can it be? A $1.99 package of music wire from Hobby Lobby and some round nose pliers, we are back in business....
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1971.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1972.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1973.JPG
Next on the list, I had received a pair of Fairmount wire edge pliers for Christmas, which had quite a twist to the handles where it was difficult for the catch to swing over the adjacent handle:
https://youtu.be/r_saJkGxvKw
Since these aren't available for return at the local hardware store (obsolete), and also since they are drop forged, I decided to do some heating and twisting. The Meco torch was used to bring the handles to a light tan color.... and a twisting device employed with a bit of tension via ratchet strap as the handles cooled...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1997.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1998.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2005.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2006.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2009.JPG
....and here's a video showing their use on a test sample. These do a nice job of locking the wire tight to the flange as you stake and wrap the wire..
https://youtu.be/220OxhKXVoU
Finally, since the artist in the family had asked a few months ago, looking for a canvas to paint, I pointed her to the Lennox. Here is the layout on the one side in Sharpie in prep for painting..
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2007.JPG
As far as the wagon, we are still here, back to one of the more boring stages..... applying epoxy primer and making black dust on the floor...
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2051.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2081.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2083.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2084.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2096.JPG
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2100.JPG
And in the planning stage for one of the trim details, the owner had ordered a ball milled dash insert for the wagon many months ago, which was far too 1990's billet. So naturally I breathed a sigh of relief when it did not fit the dash contour. (go figure) I was leaning toward an engine turned panel as it is more of a hotrod flavor. Unfortunately, it is more of a TRADITIONAL hot rod flavor, and we were in the gray area there as well. So in the meantime, a buddy has a shop in Wilmington DE, and does absolutely fabulous detail work (had a hand in the Double Bubble wagon's fabrication), and has been using this ribbed stainless sheet for dash inserts and other details.. (his picture and work)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_1980.JPG
This gives a nice classy and timeless look that is a better fit to the flavor of the car we have, so that is the direction we're headed... So to test a theory in adding a finished edge around the perimeter, we broke out the false wire edge Pullmax dies and installed them in the Lennox for a test run on some 19 gauge stainless. The "backstop" was setup to be just shy of a full wrap, which should give us a slight gap for the ribbed stainless to slide into. Our edge strips will be "outfitted" with some hidden press studs to hold it in place on the dash.
https://youtu.be/ktpJ4sSOqy0
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...y/IMG_2057.JPG
A little bit of polishing and that may just work.....
I like the dash trim, that will look nice. The artwork is very cool, she's talented.
Cosmo and I approved the Mice in the clockworks! Way COOL! The dash trims should be very classy / elegant.