Thread: 51 Moredoor

Tweet

I ran mine a short distance thru the floor, to the frame underneath the cab. Really ground a good clean spot, smeared some dielectric grease there, and used a large flat washer, bolt nut and lock washer setup. For the positive battery cable it runs all the way to the starter per wiring schematic! I also used very heavy gauge wire for the battery cables due to the longer than normal runs. I then have a ground strap running from the frame to the engine block, and will do the same with th body once all the pieces are back together.

Originally Posted by falconvan

Thanks, anybody know if there's a right way to run the ground cable on a trunk mounted battery? Not sure if I should run it down to the frame and then run a ground strap from the frame to the body or just ground it to the body. On the engine I have a ground cable running from the frame to the block.

EFI and electronics are really fussy on grounds!!!! I ground the battery to the frame, then the engine block to the frame, and even run a ground wire between those two ground points!!! Maybe overkill, but it's always worked with no problems for me!!!

When I moved my battery to the trunk I ran a 0 gage cable down to the frame in the trunk, then a second 0 gage cable from a starter mounting bolt to the frame up front. My EFI is grounded directly to that front frame connection, as close to the battery (-) terminal as was practical, not from a grounding terminal strip. I believe that it is important for that engine ground to the frame to be a healthy cable as opposed to a woven grounding strap. The woven straps are OK for "bonding", but that engine ground is going to see starter power.

Great advice, thanks all! No car stuff today, just me and my lazy old cat hanging out in the recliner waiting to watch Payton stomp the crap out of the Seahawks!

Sorry for your disappointment. After the 1st quarter Payton looked like he didn't want to be there. It's hard to understand how the Broncos had no idea of the strength of the defense about to hit them.

Go Hawks!

Jack F.

Yeah, that was beyond painful to watch. Props to Seattle for a dominating performance in every area. After the kick return at the beginning of the second half, I shut it off and watched reruns of I, Claudius the rest of the night.

Thanks for the props for the Sea Hawks, in case you weren't aware Issaquah is just east of Seattle. Maybe next year will be the year for the Rams.

It's hard to hold a grudge against someone who uses my last name in their user ID.

Jack F.

That game was hard to watch. I was really surprised the Broncos played so badly. At least they made it there I guess.

Yeah, what can you say, Ryan. Every team is going to have a day where their butts get handed to them; just too bad it was the big day.

Jack, as far as the Rams; I think we're a long ways away but its slowly getting better.

Got my headers done today, just need to tighten them up. I also took a trip to the boneyard early this morning. I was off work to take my better half to the doctor and I had a couple hours to spare this morning. I picked up a driveshaft from a Ranger that should work after a little shorting, and I found this fuse/relay box from the same truck. I think I'm going to use this instead of just mounting loose relays.

It looks super. Do you have any concerns with the header wrap helping the header tubes rust sooner? Just curious more than anything. I've only ran header wrap on some larger pipe on light trucks and always hear horror stories about header wrap on headers killing them early.

I never heard about that, 40. Mainly I wrapped them bacause I was moving the o2 sensors farther away from the motor than the stock location and wanted to retain heat, plus I had to route the one tube around the steering shaft and wanted to keep the heat off of it. I guess time will tell on this one.

I got the headers bolted down and the steering box back in today along with small stuff like swapping out the gauge sensors and running a few wires for the starter and alternator. These SHO motors use an oil cooler that bolts to the block where the oil filter goes and the filter screws onto it. Then a heater hose runs out the back of the motor, to the cooler, and back into the block through a nipple by the oil filter mount. It's a big mess of hoses that takes up a lot of room as much and as I'm trying to make it all fit, it looks like this is just not going to work around the big honker Plymouth steering box. I'm going to ditch the factory cooler and filter, screw on a remote filter adapter, and mount a remote oil cooler and filter on the core support. Slow progress; lots of trial, error, and do overs, but it's getting there.

That's what I like to call......... Revision "A"...

It sure wouldn't be an engine swap without fitment issues would it? Its looking nice though.

Yeah, you'd think when you're putting a 180 cubic inch V6 into a fat fendered full size car you'll have more clearance room than you know what to do with. Not the case!