Thread: 51 Moredoor

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That's funny but so true!

True, Mike! I'm anxious to hear some of the comments when I roll it out. I've already heard from a few online how I've "ruined a classic" by putting a foreign motor in it. Yeah, whatever.....

Originally Posted by falconvan

True, Mike! I'm anxious to hear some of the comments when I roll it out. I've already heard from a few online how I've "ruined a classic" by putting a foreign motor in it. Yeah, whatever.....

Tell them you just purified it.....

Originally Posted by rspears

Tell them you just purified it.....

That's right! I figure when you take out a motor that weighs at much as a big block Chevy and puts out 90hp and replace it with something that makes almost 3 times the power with 50 less cubic inches, and 120 lbs less weight, who cares what side of the pond it was cast on?

I decided to build a shelf behind the seat to mount the PCM, ignition module, and the amps for the stereo, plus I'll be putting a bank of relays on it. Here it is mocked up, I'm going to work on the wiring harness and get everything lengthed/shortened to where it needs to go before I neaten it all up. This eats up a ton of time; looks like I may not make my January engine test run. Hopefully it wont take too much longer.

Originally Posted by rspears

Tell them you just purified it.....

That's right! I figure when you take out a motor that weighs at much as a big block Chevy and puts out 90hp and replace it with something that makes almost 3 times the power with 50 less cubic inches, and 120 lbs less weight, who cares what side of the pond it was cast on?

I decided to build a shelf behind the seat to mount the PCM, ignition module, and the amps for the stereo, plus I'll be putting a bank of relays on it. Here it is mocked up, I'm going to work on the wiring harness and get everything lengthed/shortened to where it needs to go before I neaten it all up. This eats up a ton of time; looks like I may not make my January engine test run. Hopefully it wont take too much longer.

I need to figure out where to put my Fuse panel from the Hwy 22 setup, which looks as big as mission control, somewhere behind the back seat for sure! There is enough room for a full size battery, so this shouldn't be too bad a location! right now mines all mocked up by the driver's side quarter panel!

Yeah, sometimes you just have to make it fit wherever you have room, Steve.
This may not look like much progress but this is several hours this week of lengthening, shortening, soldering, heatshrinking, and studying diagrams. It's coming together well other than a few PCM functions Im still researching to see if they are necessary for proper engine functions. These PCMs do engine and trans functions so some things will be eliminated. But I'm feeling confident and it's looking good. Also found a spot for the coil pack; I was going to mount it on the front of the engine but I think this will work out better.

Lookin' good, Falcon. What appears to be a rat's nest of wires will become a neat, tidy bundle before you know it!! I have every confidence in you!

Today I relocated the battery to the trunk, welded the O2 bungs in my headers, and made a liitle bracket to mount the fuel pump and fan relays. All of the PCM wires are ran except for the battery power, ignition power, main grounds, and these two relays. One I get it started and verify that everything works as it should, I'll paint this panel and neaten up all the wiring. Should be wrapping the headers soon and getting them on so I can start routing wires and hoses around them.

That is looking really nice!

Thanks, anybody know if there's a right way to run the ground cable on a trunk mounted battery? Not sure if I should run it down to the frame and then run a ground strap from the frame to the body or just ground it to the body. On the engine I have a ground cable running from the frame to the block.

Originally Posted by falconvan

Thanks, anybody know if there's a right way to run the ground cable on a trunk mounted battery? Not sure if I should run it down to the frame and then run a ground strap from the frame to the body or just ground it to the body. On the engine I have a ground cable running from the frame to the block.

EFI and electronics are really fussy on grounds!!!! I ground the battery to the frame, then the engine block to the frame, and even run a ground wire between those two ground points!!! Maybe overkill, but it's always worked with no problems for me!!!

Some get real nuts, and run a cable all the way to the starter. I'd think to run the cable to the frame, and a couple ground straps for the body. Use the star washers if you can get some.

I ran mine a short distance thru the floor, to the frame underneath the cab. Really ground a good clean spot, smeared some dielectric grease there, and used a large flat washer, bolt nut and lock washer setup. For the positive battery cable it runs all the way to the starter per wiring schematic! I also used very heavy gauge wire for the battery cables due to the longer than normal runs. I then have a ground strap running from the frame to the engine block, and will do the same with th body once all the pieces are back together.

When I moved my battery to the trunk I ran a 0 gage cable down to the frame in the trunk, then a second 0 gage cable from a starter mounting bolt to the frame up front. My EFI is grounded directly to that front frame connection, as close to the battery (-) terminal as was practical, not from a grounding terminal strip. I believe that it is important for that engine ground to the frame to be a healthy cable as opposed to a woven grounding strap. The woven straps are OK for "bonding", but that engine ground is going to see starter power.