I guess it's time for an update. I tried this a couple of times and the site wouldn't cooperate, hopefully it will this time.

First what you can't see. I scored a TH350 form a kid at the parts store for $50. It had a shift kit in it, and had recently been rebuilt, but he confessed he had been drag racing his truck and the 1-2 shift was a little sluggish. I pulled it apart and found the intermediate pack had been slipping. A new set of friction disks, some steels I already had, and a Kevlar band and it's better than new.

Also finished modifying the shifter. This was a Hurst slap shifter, but cable operated. Or I should say was supposed to operate. It was always hard to shift despite relocating the cable several times. The shifter was originally in my 66. I got tired of messing with it, threw the cable in the trash and modified it for std linkage. It worked OK, but the pattern in 1st and 2nd didn't quite match the shifter. So when I decided to use it in the RPU I took it apart and re-engineered it so it worked perfectly. Of course when I put it in the truck it required a re-work of the floor around trans tunnel to clear the floor. One step forward............two back and so on. I scored a Hurst handle and installed it. The original was one of those straight 8 to 10 inch jobs.

Brakes installed on all 4, brake lines run, bled, and most of the spewing brake fluid cleaned up before it ate the paint...........Dooohhh........... Fuel lines, and trans cooler lines run. Drive shaft shortened and installed. Carbs reworked. Two were supposed to be rebuilt...........supposed to be! I found one with viton accelerator pump, one with leather. Mismatched needle and seats. Used gaskets.......etc. Another problem, probably common to 94's is top gets bowed around front, side screws and doesn't seal around front corners of float bowl. Gentle massaging with a small ball peen hammer and filing corrected that problem. I scored some rebuild kits from Auto Zone. Surprisingly they stock them. $15.99 and look like nice complete kits. They come with the viton accelerator pumps, and also have a synthetic rubber pump in the kit as well. I had to make a couple of pump return spring, missing. So a trip to Tractor Supply, a spring assortment, and a little mod. and we have accelerator pump return spring in all carbs now. I think that covers what you can't see in the pics...........so on we go.

I didn't like the amount of pedal force it took to open the outboard carbs, so I found some aluminum the same thickness as the eelco throttle arm and made an extension so I would have more leverage, and less effort to open secondary carbs. It slips over the throttle shaft and is attached to the arm with one button head screw. Now the pedal feels really nice. I can even use a little stiffer return spring on the primary carb.

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I also ran all the fuel lines from filter to carbs. I used copper 3/8". Now before I hear the crud about using copper, copper work hardening and cracking, steel is better and so on. First this is refrigeration copper, not the thin Home Depot junk. Second this stuff is used where working pressures are 200 times the 2psi fuel line pressure. This stuff is subjected to more vibration, longer cycles, than a car engine will produce. Steel also work hardens......steel is cheaper that's why it is used. I used all flare fittings, I don't like compression fittings, they seam to like to seep, and the fittings were all re purposed, and free. I think I bought 1 or 2 flare nuts, I had some forged ones, but they don't match.

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And you may have noticed in that pic, the Fenton manifolds are gone....... After all the engineering to be able to use them, IE motor mounts, steering box placement, frame notch, and so on. I couldn't figure out how to run the exhaust and be able to remove the oil filter, and when I put the starter on, well the rear exhaust tube would run right next to the rear of the starter solenoid, about 3/8" away. Now I know how that will work when hot..........click.......click...........click.....ruuuuuuuuuuuuuummmmmp........click.......click. You know the drill. So I sold em, almost got all my money back and bought some block huggers. Since they were almost 1/3 the price of the Fenton's I pony ed up for some stainless steel ones. I am sure they are Chinese but Ain't everything these days. They look nice. 7/16" thick header flanges, and the heaviest tubes I have ever seen on headers. I tried......and I say tried to dimple the tubes for a little extra clearance for header bolts, and well that stuff is tuff.......... I'm gonna run dump tubes, exiting under the cowl, in stainless, and the exhaust from the header to under the body in stainless and then plain steel from mufflers back.

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I used an 18" dual pass trans cooler, mounted to frame just behind the front cross member and under the radiator. I used steel lines from trans and just 2" of rubber hose to connect to the cooler. I did the same with fuel lines 3/8" inverted flare from elect pump to tank and to regulator/filter, with just the bare minim in rubber lines to connect to the regulator, and the pre filter that is in between the tank and the electric fuel pump.

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And here is a pic of the shifter handle.

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