Thread: 41 Willys Gasser project

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Heres what I mean---you have 10 bolts----a dowel has to be in the cap and in the block--10X2 =20

When a block is made the caps are fitted to the register with an interferance fit for locating(sorta like dowelling?) then the block is align bored----------any effort to do any mod to that setup will require another align bore/hone to correct the bore to the possible relocating of the centerline by the mod.

As good as I am with doing things like that, the odds of some of those 20 places being exact grows beyond what is reasonable (and I do lots of main cap replacement,etc)

Furthermore, the main webs on that engine are sorta skinny and some extra stress around any fastener will be a source for a possible fracture up to the cam tunnel----a very slight outward force will almost guarantee a break up the oil passage to the main

Not trying to be an alarmist, or to cry WOLF, but in my opinion its something you don't want to do----------

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Heres what I mean---you have 10 bolts----a dowel has to be in the cap and in the block--10X2 =20

When a block is made the caps are fitted to the register with an interferance fit for locating(sorta like dowelling?) then the block is align bored----------any effort to do any mod to that setup will require another align bore/hone to correct the bore to the possible relocating of the centerline by the mod.

As good as I am with doing things like that, the odds of some of those 20 places being exact grows beyond what is reasonable (and I do lots of main cap replacement,etc)

Furthermore, the main webs on that engine are sorta skinny and some extra stress around any fastener will be a source for a possible fracture up to the cam tunnel----a very slight outward force will almost guarantee a break up the oil passage to the main

Not trying to be an alarmist, or to cry WOLF, but in my opinion its something you don't want to do----------

After the main caps are doweled it's going to be align honed Jerry, maybe I should of said this earlier, it will also be getting a girdle.

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yep jerry i think i good to. no way in hell would i bet on pinning the mains with out a line bore or hone. not bumping one off on the 3:00 to 9:00 you would be very luckly

the 472/500 Caddies with a main bore that is huge at 3.4383-3.4390 which doesn't leave much material between the main bore and the cam bore for strenght, has real skinny wings out to the outer walls and puts 2 vertical oil passages for a place for the main to split out---It is not an engine I would use/recommend for big horse power---

Now, if---you were going to make a one piece griddle/main cap that used the 10 bolts Plus the oil pan bolt holes---then doweling the girdle to the block at the main bolt holes would be a route to take----------

With that, I'll back out of the main cap discussion as I have said my piece, speaking from my past and present experience---

I'm sorry, but it seems that every time I get involved in this thread, I probably come across as a nit picker---

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

the 472/500 Caddies with a main bore that is huge at 3.4383-3.4390 which doesn't leave much material between the main bore and the cam bore for strenght, has real skinny wings out to the outer walls and puts 2 vertical oil passages for a place for the main to split out---It is not an engine I would use/recommend for big horse power---

Now, if---you were going to make a one piece griddle/main cap that used the 10 bolts Plus the oil pan bolt holes---then doweling the girdle to the block at the main bolt holes would be a route to take----------

With that, I'll back out of the main cap discussion as I have said my piece, speaking from my past and present experience---

I'm sorry, but it seems that every time I get involved in this thread, I probably come across as a nit picker---

Jerry there are several people on the cadillac forum running 500's, most of them are running 9's & 10's on engines with a lower spec than mine, one guy Terry runs a 26T in the 9's with stock pistons and rods and has lots of passes on it. A freind of mine here in the UK is running a 8/71 on a 500 and is running easy mid 11's in a fairly heavy car, I will be happy to get into the 10's with a 2600lb car.
I'm building this engine with the guidance of Marty & JW at MTS Cadillac, they seem to know there stuff.

You don't come across as a nit picker to me, I appreciate your input.
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No Jerry, noway you can be accused of being a nik picker. We are all here to learn from each other and I know I enjoy watching Steve and his builds come together, I'm sure he will admit that he doesn't know everything the same as myself. If you have experience in your field then I'm sure when you speak up , we should stop and reconsider all angles before the final decision is made. One thing about this site is we are all friends and we shouldn't take any offense if somebody says otherwise against what we think is correct, otherwise how do we learn. Anyway, that is my take on it and I will always appreciate the inform information that you and many other give freely here.

Well it was nice and warm and needed to get some primer on the sump before it started to flash rust, 2 coats of black Epoxy primer, wait an hour for it to flash off and straight on with 3 coats of Gold miniflake, wait another hour and then 3 coats of Maxiclear, I think we will call that job done !!!





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WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You've got to have one of the nicest looking oil pans around. Some major bling there!

Originally Posted by stovens

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You've got to have one of the nicest looking oil pans around. Some major bling there!

Steve I just thought with it hanging down and visible from the front it needed something to highlight the chrome frontend, Motor is the same colour.

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Wow, you just back up there buddy....... we have nick named you Mr Stainless Steel now how the hell can we come up with a name using Metal Flake paint and stainless...... oh wait ... how about " Mr Flaky Stainless " , now that shouldn't be too difficult for your mail man should it Steve ? Oh, my mistake , Flaky ...
Your use of flake has been sold to me the first time I saw a picture of your pink T and the '32 Roadster and I have priced the paint for my T using House of Kolor Tangerine with a dose of flake.

Steve it's the details like that, that make your builds First class rides. It's also why so many of us enjoy following your builds.

Been keeping busy painting a few engine bits but I thought a polished stainless timing cover might be nice so bought one from the states, had a nice made in USA sticker but shame it was made in 309 magnetic stainless, no point in polishing it as it will only go rusty
Decided to epoxy prime and gold flake it like the rest.










While I had the gun out I decided to flake the B&M deep trans pan I had, polished the fins first, then 2 coats of black epoxy and then the gold flake, it now matches nicely









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Steve,
I really like the B&M pan! Can you walk through the steps you used to keep the polished fins exposed, but leave the paint lines crisp?

Originally Posted by rspears

Steve,
I really like the B&M pan! Can you walk through the steps you used to keep the polished fins exposed, but leave the paint lines crisp?

Its actually pretty easy Roger
First the fins were polished, then its all degreased to get rid of the polishing deposits, then 2 coats of epoxy primer are applied, then with a paper towel wrapped around my finger I dip it in standard thinners and wipe the top of the fins in one continuous stroke, then the flake coats are applied and the same wiping process, then clear coats go on and again the same process.

All done without the aid of a safety net too
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I've done the same thing on the old-style Holley valve covers several times. Back in the day, I put a set of those on about every hot rod I owned - BB & SB chevy, 400 Pontiac, Olds, etc. Except I didn't use flake. I usually used the car body cover. It's a pretty easy process. 30-3.jpg