Thread: 41 Willys Gasser project

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Steve--I agree with the welded bungs in the end of tubes for the healthier links----I do the directly threaded tube fo things like throttle linkages(your carb pics reminded me), goKart steering links, clutch/brake--------probably nothing bigger than 1/2 od

Jack---------------PETA will be after you because of the dangerous things your doing to those birds habitat around the landing strip------------------

Yes with you on the small stuff, anything above 3/8" gets threaded bungs or anything important.

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Originally Posted by roadster32

......anything above 3/8" gets threaded bungs or anything important.

....can't think of much that's not "important" enough, Steve. Too many things become "safety issues" only after the incident.

Originally Posted by rspears

....can't think of much that's not "important" enough, Steve. Too many things become "safety issues" only after the incident.

Roger I think you have to use your noddle a bit really, virtually everything i do in tube gets inserts but things like thottle linkages get directly tapped just as long as the wall thickness is sufficient.

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Jerry, if this is the Peta hit squad, I guess I'll just have to deal with it.

peta.jpg

Well it appears the bad luck fairy has struck Got a message saying my heads were gonna be ready next week so got the machined block out of storage and thought I would put the short motor together, I had previously done all the machine work including hot tanking the block, crack testing, drilling out the oilways, drilling larger oil returns, over boring, doweling the main caps etc etc, basically a shitload of work

It had been stored in my lockup in a sealed bag to keep it clean, Jason came round to help me get it on the engine stand, we rolled it over and Jason said "whats that line for ?" I looked and it wasn't a line but a hairline crack about 1" up from the pan rail, its so fine its extremely difficult to see but it makes the block scrap

Had a cup of tea and decided to go get the spare block from the lockup and strip it out and take it to be hot tanked before starting the maching all over again. Jason kindly helped me strip it and get back into the car so I could take it in the morning. We checked for cracks and found nothing

You ain't gonna believe this , Got to the engine shop and asked it to be hot tanked first, Peter the owner looks inside and says "this one is ok"
About an hour later Peter rang me to say he had checked the progress of the block in the tank and now it looked like it also had a crack in the same place
I drove back and sure enough it had a hairline crack bugger !!!

Luckily my mate Shaun (rockit) has a spare 500 block and is gonna lend it to me and I can replace as soon as I locate a good one, I just need to get from Preston to Watford


Its baffled me how these cracks could appear even after checking, 3 different people have looked at this block and nobody noticed it anybody got any ideas ???

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Steve,
You say "...1" up from the pan rail", but in what area around the bottom of the block? It's a shame to have invested the machining work on the first one, thinking it was ready to go, but then to find a second one failed is a double slap! Sorry to hear it.

Originally Posted by rspears

Steve,
You say "...1" up from the pan rail", but in what area around the bottom of the block? It's a shame to have invested the machining work on the first one, thinking it was ready to go, but then to find a second one failed is a double slap! Sorry to hear it.

Roger its 1" up from the pan rail on the dipstick side, basically the bottom of the water jacket

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that.s no fun but nothing gets past a wet mag less you do not mag that spot .i would bet them blocks were in service for some time with them cracks . i understand not wanting a block with a crack but i fixed many were guys let them freeze or blow threw the deck when a gasket fails were there $3000. blocks you just do not throw them out

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

that.s no fun but nothing gets past a wet mag less you do not mag that spot .i would bet them blocks were in service for some time with them cracks . i understand not wanting a block with a crack but i fixed many were guys let them freeze or blow threw the deck when a gasket fails were there $3000. blocks you just do not throw them out

Thats interesting Pat, over the years i've welded a few street blocks but was loathe to do this one as its gonna get leaned on hard.

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Seems there ought to be a viable repair method.... What about something like Moroso Ceramic Sealer? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-35500

Originally Posted by rspears

Seems there ought to be a viable repair method.... What about something like Moroso Ceramic Sealer? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-35500

yep but not with that stuff is a band aid . i have 1000hp + engine weld them and pin them all the time

Well last couple of evenings i've been making something i've thought about for ages so while I have a bit of time while waiting for another block to arrive I got on with it.
I've always liked the look of Blower restraints so decded to get one, I was gobsmacked how much they were for a good one $450 plus, I don't actually need one so thought lets make one.

Heres the look I was after







Don't look that hard to make








I didn't have any plate wide enough so went with 6" wide 1/4" stainless and made the strap ears seperatly, first job was to cut slots in the ears for the belts.










Next job was to mark out the main plate and drill the mounting holes, plasma out the squares and weld the belt ears













I was going to make the straps out of ratchet strap material but couldn't find the flame proof covers so ended up buying some proper straps that came with the covering, not really that expensive.

Next up I plasma cut the anchoring plates in 3/16 BMS, luckily I had a friend nearby with a restraint on his blower so popped in and copied the rough shape. Found some 3/8" tube for the release pins so welded them on.









I have a box of old pip pins and as luck would have it there were 4 x 3/8" in it which were perfect length.








Can't make my mind up to either polish the stainless or black powdercoat it, Total cost ended up less than $100

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Polish. It's like free bling.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Polish. It's like free bling.

Your not wrong there

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That's cool! Yeah, I'd polish. It'll look better in the "Installed" pictures you post next!!