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05-19-2013 05:37 PM #1
Ok, the injectors are pulsing, there is fuel, there is fire but.....
Just to be sure my injectors were clean & working, I pulled the intake again and removed the fuel rails and injectors. Based on the little video in a previous post I devised my own little redneck cleaning & testing process....

Went to the parts store and bought some 5/16" vacuum caps, carb cleaner & little audio-sized wire connectors since I didn't have an extra injector connector laying around. I used the pin to puncture the top and the vacuum cap and inserted the red tube from the carb cleaner.

I attached a couple of connectors to a couple of wires and slid them on the terminals of the injector.

The injectors only require 5volts. I had an old battery charger with a 6volt setting so I used it...

I attached the red tube to the carb spray while touching the red wire to the hot wire on the charger....(I already had the other wire clamped to black) Oh, I had to use a hose clamp on the rubber cause the pressure from the carb cleaner blew it across the garage...


It worked like a charm. After several blasts the injectors were spraying clean & strong.
I reassembled everything......and nothing has changed.

I loosened the hold down bolt and rotate the distrib with the key on. As it rotates the fuel pump primes and the pressure gauge jumps to 45psi, then back to zero."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-20-2013 06:21 AM #2
That's a very neat cleaning/testing rig you came up with! I had a thought about the fuel rail - with it off and the FPR removed have you blown air through it to ensure it's not plugged?
The timing advance step proves that the pump primes and comes up to pressure, but that going back to zero makes me wonder if your fuel pressure regulator may be bad, or that you might have an injector stuck open but you proved they cycle? On my '33 the pump comes on, primes the system, and then the system holds pressure for quite a long time with the engine not running. Sounds to me like your's is letting the pressure bleed back to the tank. Sure would be nice to be able to swap one from a known good engine for a test, but you can get one for less than $20, or less than $50 for MotorCraft. Hate to throw parts at something, but this one seems to be pointing to a problem?Last edited by rspears; 05-20-2013 at 06:44 AM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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05-20-2013 07:01 AM #3
Thanks for the comments on the cleaning/testing rig. It's not perfect but it worked. Those carb cleaner cans really crank out some pressure and those rubber vacuum caps weren't really designed for solvents so it takes more than one to get the job done.
Yes, I made sure the fuel rails were clean while I had it out. I cleaned them before I put it together the first time but it seems I have to do everything at least twice!! Argh!
As for the FPR, I put a new one on the other day. Is it possible that I screwed it up when I reversed the fuel lines for a bit on Saturday?
So, far, with all these efforts, it still just turns over with no attempt to start.....I just don't get it!"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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05-20-2013 07:22 AM #4
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.





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