Thread: Engine Swap - '92 5.0EFI/AOD into '66 Ford F100....

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Originally Posted by randyr

.....I reassembled everything......and nothing has changed.

I loosened the hold down bolt and rotate the distrib with the key on. As it rotates the fuel pump primes and the pressure gauge jumps to 45psi, then back to zero.

That's a very neat cleaning/testing rig you came up with! I had a thought about the fuel rail - with it off and the FPR removed have you blown air through it to ensure it's not plugged?

The timing advance step proves that the pump primes and comes up to pressure, but that going back to zero makes me wonder if your fuel pressure regulator may be bad, or that you might have an injector stuck open but you proved they cycle? On my '33 the pump comes on, primes the system, and then the system holds pressure for quite a long time with the engine not running. Sounds to me like your's is letting the pressure bleed back to the tank. Sure would be nice to be able to swap one from a known good engine for a test, but you can get one for less than $20, or less than $50 for MotorCraft. Hate to throw parts at something, but this one seems to be pointing to a problem?

Originally Posted by rspears

That's a very neat cleaning/testing rig you came up with! I had a thought about the fuel rail - with it off and the FPR removed have you blown air through it to ensure it's not plugged?

The timing advance step proves that the pump primes and comes up to pressure, but that going back to zero makes me wonder if your fuel pressure regulator may be bad, or that you might have an injector stuck open but you proved they cycle? On my '33 the pump comes on, primes the system, and then the system holds pressure for quite a long time with the engine not running. Sounds to me like your's is letting the pressure bleed back to the tank. Sure would be nice to be able to swap one from a known good engine for a test, but you can get one for less than $20, or less than $50 for MotorCraft. Hate to throw parts at something, but this one seems to be pointing to a problem?

Thanks for the comments on the cleaning/testing rig. It's not perfect but it worked. Those carb cleaner cans really crank out some pressure and those rubber vacuum caps weren't really designed for solvents so it takes more than one to get the job done.
Yes, I made sure the fuel rails were clean while I had it out. I cleaned them before I put it together the first time but it seems I have to do everything at least twice!! Argh!

As for the FPR, I put a new one on the other day. Is it possible that I screwed it up when I reversed the fuel lines for a bit on Saturday?

So, far, with all these efforts, it still just turns over with no attempt to start.....I just don't get it!

Originally Posted by randyr

....As for the FPR, I put a new one on the other day. Is it possible that I screwed it up when I reversed the fuel lines for a bit on Saturday?

So, far, with all these efforts, it still just turns over with no attempt to start.....I just don't get it!

I wouldn't think back pressure would hurt the FPR. We're overlooking something basic, but I have no idea what at this point. You've verified good spark during crank, not just ignition power when "ON", right?