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Thread: Installing a blower on a flathead
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sorry about those photos...shot them at lowest res on the camera. Maybe someone can fix this for me.

  2. #17
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Update: Pulled the radiator and started mounting the crank pulley and the offset alternator bracket. Got the bracket from Speedway, but it didn't exactly suit my application. Welded together two extra brackets to modify the Speedway part. Also used an idler pulley to get more belt wrap for the water pump and the alternator on the driver's side. Now I am mounting the electric fan on the radiator, and will drive it around a little to see how the belt tracks. Next up....mount the blower and install the belt and tensioner ( I will have to make the bracket for the tensioner).
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  3. #18
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Update: Got the fan mounted on the radiator and have driven it. Runs cool and no overheating. The alt. belt squeaks when reving the engine, but belt dressing calms it down somewhat. I am asking alot of that belt with that sharp bend around the idler pulley, but I needed to get more belt wrap for the water pump and alternator. The intake manifold is ready to pick up from the machine shop....getting some excess metal shaved off. I'll be shutting down the driving soon, as I need to pull the 4-barrel manifold and start positioning the manifold for the blower and locating the tension idler for the blower belt. Later....

  4. #19
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Latest on the blower install: Took off the 4-barrel manifold and positioned the lower manifold on the block. Needed to do some trimming to clear the factory heads. Also, note the upper manifold has been narrowed to clear the water outlets. About 2" taken off each side. Laying everything out to get the position for the blower. It has to be centered side-to-side and has to line up directly over the 6-rib pulley on the crank. Once I have that position, I will drill the mounting holes and cut out the air hole for the blower. Machine shop wants $300 to $500 to do this. I'll do it myself with a scanned lower end and hole position punched out. I'll show you the procedure later. Here are the photos at low res (I hope).
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    Last edited by Ford Guy; 05-21-2010 at 04:22 AM. Reason: Add photos.

  5. #20
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Here's more photos.
    Attached Images

  6. #21
    Flathead4d is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 50 Ford Custom
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    Thanks for the update. I like the three deuces look as compared to the 4 bbl but go with which ever fits your needs. I've run both on my non blown engine and the 4 bbl is a lot less trouble. That being said, I'm still running the trip 97's. Just a glutton for punishment I guess. LOL

  7. #22
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Udate: Finally got the intake manifold drilled and cut out to fit the blower. Mounting holes drilled. Just bought a re-built T-10 off ebay...that install will occur later! Out of town for two weeks, then back at it. The 3x2's are mounted on its manifold and the progressive linkage is installed. Still have to install the pressure regulator and the gas lines to each carb. Lots of work doing this, but it will get done.

  8. #23
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    i hope the intake mounting plate for your blower is much thicker then it looks ?or is the the thin base plate just for a lay out ?
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  9. #24
    Ford Guy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The base plate is 1.15" thick so it should be stable enough not to warp when torqued down. I had to trim it down to narrow it to fit between the thermostat necks, and cut the hole for the blower air and mounting hardware. Still need to drill and tap vacuum ports.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Guy View Post
    The base plate is 1.15" thick so it should be stable enough not to warp when torqued down. I had to trim it down to narrow it to fit between the thermostat necks, and cut the hole for the blower air and mounting hardware. Still need to drill and tap vacuum ports.
    yep thats nice and thick i was looking thru my older set of eyes
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ford Guy View Post
    The base plate is 1.15" thick so it should be stable enough not to warp when torqued down. I had to trim it down to narrow it to fit between the thermostat necks, and cut the hole for the blower air and mounting hardware. Still need to drill and tap vacuum ports.
    With that blower, why vacuum ports?? Or is it hollow and I missed that?

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    With that blower, why vacuum ports?? Or is it hollow and I missed that?
    well yes them would be pressure ports any thing at carb base plate is vacuun
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy View Post
    well yes them would be pressure ports any thing at carb base plate is vacuun
    And that's what I was thinking. Pressure or boost port(s). Maybe I was using my older set of eyes too!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    And that's what I was thinking. Pressure or boost port(s). Maybe I was using my older set of eyes too!
    hey you bet i have a set of them my self i did see he said he was doing more drilling and tapping. but it went past me till i did seen your post yep that aint going to work
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  15. #30
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    okay here is a shot trying to re-size the pictures for you
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    Last edited by green34ford; 08-10-2010 at 03:46 PM.

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