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Thread: Sleeving a Block
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capecreations21 View Post
    ....If the vg block is sleeved to 3.3 or 3.5 like you say can you then add the twin turbo set up to that or is the compression too high at this point? The second question is if the vg block turns out to not be the route.. Could the vh block be sleeved, or could any LS type block be sleeved to achieve those rpm numbers? Thank you much! And again sorry that my knowledge base for this is very poor.
    I'm gonna risk another reply here. I looked back at my earlier posts and I don't see that I said anything negative or "cold". I simply stated that if you're wanting to build an OUS engine to wrap up like a Ferrari MY OPINION is that you'd be best served finding a shop that works on those kind of engines on a regular basis (note Ryan's comment about finally finding a guy that specialized in engines for tractor pulls?). Seems quite logical in my mind.

    CC21, you're confused about sleeving a block. Sleeving is used to repair a flaw that destroys the integrity of a cylinder wall, or like Ryan mentioned on his diesel comment, to give a stronger cylinder wall than the cast iron offers, and has nothing to do with "making numbers". It's a repair option, and in your case you've described boring the block out to the point that the bores are into the cooling water jackets, then installing sleeves that give you a bigger bore than you could have ever had before. Like Jerry mentioned, you're only going to pick up a few cubic inches doing this, and the cost to volume increase isn't gonna be cheap. The resulting compression will be determined by your head and piston selection, along with the stroke you finalize - how much you squeeze the charge into the combustion chamber in the head.
    How does Ferrari push their peak power out to ~9000 rpm's? They use ultra light valves, rockers, lifters, pushrods, and extreme spring pressures to counter the inertia of the valves; ultra light alloy rods/caps; lightweight forged cranks, etc, etc to make the reciprocating parts as light as they can while keeping them strong, then balancing the whole shebang to make it smooth as silk.
    I'd say that you're on the right track with your comment about doing a cleanup bore on the vg block (sleeved or not sleeved, depending on how much money you want to throw at it) and then running the twin turbo's. Sounds like you've been reading too much on tuner forums where guys who've never done it are talking about "what if I just bore out my 3L to use 426 Hemi pistons!! Wouldn't that be cool?"
    With that I'll back away from this discussion, suggesting that you might want to get a book on engines and study up a bit. You've obviously got the desire, and wanting to do something "different" is a very good thing, again in my opinion. Hope you have a great day!
    Last edited by rspears; 10-20-2016 at 05:09 AM.
    Capecreations21 likes this.
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  2. #2
    Capecreations21's Avatar
    Capecreations21 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post

    CC21, you're confused about sleeving a block. Sleeving is used to repair a flaw that destroys the integrity of a cylinder wall, or like Ryan mentioned on his diesel comment, to give a stronger cylinder wall than the cast iron offers, and has nothing to do with "making numbers". It's a repair option, and in your case you've described boring the block out to the point that the bores are into the cooling water jackets, then installing sleeves that give you a bigger bore than you could have ever had before. Like Jerry mentioned, you're only going to pick up a few cubic inches doing this, and the cost to volume increase isn't gonna be cheap. The resulting compression will be determined by your head and piston selection, along with the stroke you finalize - how much you squeeze the charge into the combustion chamber in the head.
    How does Ferrari push their peak power out to ~9000 rpm's? They use ultra light valves, rockers, lifters, pushrods, and extreme spring pressures to counter the inertia of the valves; ultra light alloy rods/caps; lightweight forged cranks, etc, etc to make the reciprocating parts as light as they can while keeping them strong, then balancing the whole shebang to make it smooth as silk.
    I'd say that you're on the right track with your comment about doing a cleanup bore on the vg block (sleeved or not sleeved, depending on how much money you want to throw at it) and then running the twin turbo's. Sounds like you've been reading too much on tuner forums where guys who've never done it are talking about "what if I just bore out my 3L to use 426 Hemi pistons!! Wouldn't that be cool?"
    With that I'll back away from this discussion, suggesting that you might want to get a book on engines and study up a bit. You've obviously got the desire, and wanting to do something "different" is a very good thing, again in my opinion. Hope you have a great day!

    Thank you for the reply and I didn't see any negativity in these comments, def saw some people trying to teach me some things tho so thank you guys for that. To be honest yes it kind of is a lot of tuner forums but only because achieving high horsepower numbers on the NA without adding turbos has been done so few times that all there is are ideas and theories about what could or might work, very few actually build logs or specs to follow. That being said yes I do need to invest in an engine building book and study it from square one. The vh45 Infiniti motor is a swap that has been done frequently and that is a v8 with all forged lightweight internals so that is why I was thinking MAYBE that could be a possibility to turn that kind of range, whether or not it will work is a whole different story but at least with the v8 maybe there is at least more to gain to bore it but then again maybe not.

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