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Thread: quicksteel rather than weld?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Matt167's Avatar
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    quicksteel rather than weld?

     



    Ok, here's the perdicament, I have my turbo installed, oil supply lines run, all gauges and senders for oil are hooked up. I have no oil return in the oil pan, I need 1. so I have to drill and attach a fitting somehow. I can't weld it, my wire feed is a POS, that wouldn't penetrate a thicker steel fitting, would quicksteel be good enough to attach a 3/8" brass fitting. it's reinforced epoxy good for 500*. I'm going to run 1/2" hard line from the turbo to the pan.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  2. #2
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Don't do it. If you get a failure in the bond and lose your oil, think of the money that will be lost!!!! If you go to a plumbing supply warehouse, you can get a fitting with an external thread and a shoulder on it that inserts thru a plain hole in sheet metal (your oilpan) and has a nut that screws onto the other side of the sheet metal. There are 2 washer type gaskets, one goes on each side of the sheet metal. This fitting has an internal thread that you then connect your oil line to.
    Old guy hot rodder

  3. #3
    Matt167's Avatar
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    I'v seen those, only thing is, I can't get to the inside. I'd have to pull the motor out and remove the pan, which right now is not an option, as I have no equipment. I just have to get it togther enough so I can start it. I have no antifreeze in the block, only water. I don't want my block cracked. what about a small sheetmetal panal, sheet metal screwed into place with a rubber gasket on the back, weld the fitting to the panal, drill the hole thru it? I have a stick welder that is pretty forgiving, but I burn thru easy. I got lots of sheet metal, only 1 oil pan ( which is $80 new if I screw it up )
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  4. #4
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    cant you get some one to weld it or you could solder it or braze it or you can punch a hole in the pan this will roll some metal in the hole then tap with a pipe tap if you do this rigth you can get 3 threds to hang it on to then wash with thinner and use you j b putty if you have a fule pump plate on it take it drill and tap it for your return . oil when hot leaks any were i would not trust it to do all of the job . what we did was use AN bulk head fittings in the pan this is a good way to go if you do not want to weld but you have to pull the pan i would not be to hot on drilling a pan and worry about the crap/steel in the pan when done .YOU SHOULD PULL IT DO do it right
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 09-08-2007 at 05:47 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Yea, I got a fuel pump plate, but it's on the wrong side of the engine. I'm gonna try using the punch I think, I can always use a smaller punch to roll the sides in. tap would be 3/8". what's an AN bulkhead fitting?
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  6. #6
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    look at russell fitting like jeg,s or any one that sell the AN fitting it is a fitting that is male to male with a nut made to go thru any thing that you want to seal or stop a line at
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    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 09-08-2007 at 06:14 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  7. #7
    Matt167's Avatar
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    here is the conclusion I have come to, I'm going to drill and tap the fuel pump blockoff, and run a 3/8" line, ither copper or steel, around to the blockoff from the turbo. as long as the exit is lower than the turbo, it shouldn't matter. I think I'm gonna do that tomorrow.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  8. #8
    Cape Cod Bob is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    good idea. i think u could also use the drain hole with a tee added

  9. #9
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    A tee added for what or to what...I'm curious.
    What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?

  10. #10
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cape Cod Bob
    good idea. i think u could also use the drain hole with a tee added
    the return line should be above the oil or it will not drain out of the turbo very good
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  11. #11
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
    the return line should be above the oil or it will not drain out of the turbo very good
    WAIT, I'll have to look but my oil cap might be JUST lower than the turbo, it has a 5/8" fitting on it for hose, MABY
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  12. #12
    nitrowarrior's Avatar
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    um.... nope......drop it lower.....what's the tee thing about ...just route it into the fuel pump block off plate.....simple, easy and you'll be happy
    What if the "Hokey Pokey" is what it's really all about?

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