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this what i found out we had the pcv hooked to the wrong port and the break booster also so we change them now we have good breaks and the carb was easyer to adjust now its not wide open and we think there is someting wrong with the tranny converter we think it is stuck cause its pulling so much when we change from park to dive we loose 500 to 600 rpm so we think its not releasing so i am asking if anyone else looses that much rpm on shifting ?

Originally Posted by big_block

this what i found out we had the pcv hooked to the wrong port and the break booster also so we change them now we have good breaks and the carb was easyer to adjust now its not wide open and we think there is someting wrong with the tranny converter we think it is stuck cause its pulling so much when we change from park to dive we loose 500 to 600 rpm so we think its not releasing so i am asking if anyone else looses that much rpm on shifting ?

big block, I doubt its in the trans. if it goes into park and into drive thats about all it needs to do. how much the motor fall off would be in the tune up of the motor. still sound like you have another vac. leak.

wel i was thinking if i had a manual the rpm would change right what else would make it fall down that much it falls down 500 to 600 rmp thats a lot you know 200 isn't much but 600 its acting like its uder a pull that why at a idel it never runs hot only when you are in a gear i don't know really that why i was wanting what everyone else is doing ? with a auto

Originally Posted by big_block

wel i was thinking if i had a manual the rpm would change right what else would make it fall down that much it falls down 500 to 600 rmp thats a lot you know 200 isn't much but 600 its acting like its uder a pull that why at a idel it never runs hot only when you are in a gear i don't know really that why i was wanting what everyone else is doing ? with a auto

if you had a manual and put it in gear and come out on the clutch then your prm's would fall. thats what you're doing when you put a auto. in drive. if your motor is running bad enough then it will cut completely off, every time you put it in gear. sounds like a carb, vac, or timing problem.

but when you put a manual in gear you are going somewere right now say you put a manual in gear and let the clutch out a little and sit there pully you might run hot ?? maybe all in know is it drops 600 rpm when you shift to drive or any other gear and back to nuteral it goes up ... is there any other auto out there ??????????? that cann giv input ?

ok when you shift into gear, thats when the trans starts using vaccum, if either you have a vaccum leak or the module on the tranny is failing, it will cause a severe drop when you shift it into gear.... could be also your cam grind, you might not be putting out enough vaccum to support the added transmission at idle....or hell, timing could cause that too.... o0o o0o!!! also bad idle fuel mixture could cause it.... take a look at some of those... see what you find out

well i know timming is fine and vaccum is ok i guess about 18 now about the module that might be something to look at if you think ,,,,the cars runs ad starts fine i'll look in the shop manual and see about the module before we change the converter thanks

Originally Posted by big_block

well i know timming is fine and vaccum is ok i guess about 18 now about the module that might be something to look at if you think ,,,,the cars runs ad starts fine i'll look in the shop manual and see about the module before we change the converter thanks

if the diagram was busted in the module then that would show up as a vac. leak, or late up shift. vac. is at the module all the time. how much vac. do you have at the motor? you need to check that.

we have about 18 lbs vaccum on the intake manifold or so

Originally Posted by big_block

we have about 18 lbs vaccum on the intake manifold or so

thats good vac. all i'm saying is most of the time a conv. (will stall a motor, not just pull it down 2-300 extra rpm's) when its going bad. i've put in a lot of conv. be never for that reason. in park what is your rpm's and what is it at in gear? is the vac. steady?

in park its about 1100 and in drive 600 i have't checked the vac in gear we just done change some vac hose set up we have the pcv off right now we have the break booster going to the bottom of carb and on the manifold there is a tree and the tranny is there and the others is blocked off i don't know if that is right or not but that is were it runs the best

Originally Posted by big_block

in park its about 1100 and in drive 600 i have't checked the vac in gear we just done change some vac hose set up we have the pcv off right now we have the break booster going to the bottom of carb and on the manifold there is a tree and the tranny is there and the others is blocked off i don't know if that is right or not but that is were it runs the best

the hoses are ok. if you're checking the vac. at 1100 rpm then thats not a true reading. it will be hi vac. with the hi rpm's. cut the rpm's dowm to about 800 and then get a vac. reading.

At 1100 rpm you may be getting close to the throttle blades being too far off the idle transitions slots in the carb (for a Holley anyway). In any case the engine does not sound like it is idling properly. This could be linked to everything as discussed above; a vacuum problem is very possible. Is the carb known to be good?

Regards, Kitz

yup it does sound like a vaccuum problem if it wont idle around 800.... might be idle mixture adjustments, those can change vaccuum quite a bit... and at 1100 those adjustments aren't actually being used because you're not running on an idle circuit

if i cut the rpm down to 800 it won't idel not at all and the vac reading at 800 is about 1500 or so