Thread: 72elk

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Thanks for the explanation. Can you give me a recommendation on either a specific piston of the specs on what I should be looking for to achieve the compression ration I'm looking for.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Eau contraire my friend, it was me who dropped the ball. I went back and read the entire thread a little while ago and found the point where my brain froze up. It was in post #63 on page 5 where I put the OK on those H618CP030 pistons. As soon as I had the part number, I went to the Summit site to see what the compression height was. Satisfied that it was 1.560" and failing to take notice that the crown was ( -3.5 cc's), I blessed them. I must have been in a senior moment or a semi-coma to put the OK on those pistons. They would work OK on 72 or 76 cc heads, but will not work with 64cc heads on pump gas.

I feel like an idiot for misleading you, but rest assured that it was not intentional.

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Sir: I salute you.
You're a good man.
It takes balls to publicly admit you were in the wrong, and apologise as humbly as you did.

You've certainly got my respect.
I can only reiterate: you're a good man.
And I salute you for it.

By the way, I have a set of the speed pro H618 CP 30 pistons that I'm planning on returning Monday because of the high compression. From what I've read not only will fuel be a problem this high of compression isn't good with cast heads and tuning would be challenging

It's all on post #50.
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Almost have all the parts in hand. Got the KB pistions, new high flow water pump, HEI ignition and wires..and many more. One item I am having trouble finding is Valve Covers for vortec heads with scorpion roller rockers. It seems like every where I check I get a maybe or maybe not. Any suggestions?

New issue. Have all parts in hand and took block to machine shop. Apparently there is a groove in one of the cylinders that is going to require it to be bored .040 over. KB does not make the piston that was selected in .040 over. I need a recommendation of a comprable piston in the same size. Any suggestions?

How much does the shop want to put a sleeve in that cylinder? Where is the groove located?

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My mechanic found identical KB pistons thru one of his vendors. He will start boring once he gets the pistons so he can verify exact size of each. Techinspector1 gave me the blueprint for this build and told me that I would be able to use my stock torque converter however I was thinking that since I've gone this far I was wondering what would be a good choice if I was to go ahead and replace mine. Keep in mind I can't break the bank on this last part.

What are the pros and cons of a lock up torque converter vs a standard one.

Originally Posted by States

What are the pros and cons of a lock up torque converter vs a standard one.

What trans are you wanting to run? It can cost a huge amount of money to put a lock up set up in say a Th350 or Th400. 700r4s, 200r4s, 4l60e, and 4l80e all have lock up converters. There were some lock up 350s in the early 80s as well.

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A lock up receives an electric signal which "locks" it up, and it stops slipping. If you install a 700R4 (for example) then it needs a signal to lock up or it always slips, which hurts fuel economy and heats the fluid.

Edit;: oops that was more of a tutorial than a pro con explanation. Simply put, if the trans requires a lock up, then that's what you need to go with.

Engine assembled, just need to remove the old one and install this one. Pictures in gallery

Ok so I went ahead and bought a Hugh's torque converter rated at 2500rpm for a Chevy BIG block which, according to to documentation should be somewhere between 2000 and 2200 go my 350.
Now a dumb question. I'm ready to pull the old 350 out, can I do that while leaving the tranny in place or do I need to take both out at the same time. The tranny is a TH350.

Originally Posted by States

Now a dumb question. I'm ready to pull the old 350 out, can I do that while leaving the tranny in place or do I need to take both out at the same time. The tranny is a TH350.

You can for sure pull the engine, leaving the tranny in place, but in my experience it's going to be a lot harder to get the new engine & old tranny aligned and done right that way. It's LOTS easier to pull the engine & tranny, connect the new engine & tranny on the shop floor, and re-install the engine & tranny as a unit. Others may disagree.

I used to stick the engine and trans together on my old 72 Camaro and then put them in as 1 piece. That was with the BBC. I did it easily on the 71 with the 5.3/Super T10 too.