Thread: brake problem

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Here's another plumbing job along with the tools I did it with. Some of the braided flex has since been changed but the brake lines are the same:







The flare tool is for AN/37* fittings. For any that would have the 45* double flare there is another by Imperial-Eastman which I don't have a photo. There are separate benders for 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8

Originally Posted by Weasel Diesel

Nice setup Deuce... What type of line bender do you have to get such crisp tight bends?? My bender has a wide radius ( as you can see).

I use the Imperial tubing benders. Unfortunately, they are tubing size specific ... so I have one each for 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8. I also have a 1/2 for larger tubing. I also have a hydraulic flaring tool.



Mastercool 71475

I like running lines and bought all this stuff just to do my race cars and then street rods. Now ... I do 4 or 5 cars a year for other folks.

If you want really tight 90's i use a piece of 1" bar with a deep 3/16" groove in it, Then just pull the tube round it, works perfect.
I have different diameters for tight or loose bends

deuce
do you have the 37* adapter kit for that tool set?? If you do--how well does it work on a/c ss .035 wall tube???

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

deuce
do you have the 37* adapter kit for that tool set?? If you do--how well does it work on a/c ss .035 wall tube???

No

I have a 37 degree flaring tool that works well.



A friend of mine was a aircraft mechanic for one of the major airlines and when he retired ... he gave me his 37 degree flaring tool. I would buy the dies for the Mastercool but my " used ... gifted " unit works so well, I just do not need the Mastercool 37 degree dies

I have the ridget like IC2 posted in 37 and works OK, just sometimes need to anneal if it is thicker wall or larger od tube to offset the work hardening--but I was wondering how the hydraulic tool worked in the 37*, so that s why I asked--

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

try this thought----a single master cylinder / not late model duels----

a porportioning valve will cut down the total braking from that one very limited source by reducing the force to the rear

Changing the wheel cylinders is cheap, effective and leaves the total brake effort available---if after altering the rear DOWN by 1/8 inch , he wants more front, he can increase fronts by 1/8 inch--probably cheaper than buying a por valve that has 3 possible leak points

Hey Jerry!! I like the idea of changing the wheel cylinder sizes!! Here is a stupid question!! How do i order different sizes? Will a NAPA or other auto store have listings for different size wheel cylinder? Thanks for all the input and ideas!! Pete

well the kid behind the counter will want to know the year,make,model,liters,2 or 4 wheel drive anti skid,traction control,2 or 4 wheel abs, etc, etc

You need to find a store that has manufactures cataloques that look like they been opened a few times---when you get a kelsey hayes, etc and go to progressive size charts/listings you will get the data you need---but first you'll need one of yours off for the size and type and match up

good luck

Pete

Denny over at www.dennyshangout.com probably will have the info you need---He has more info than the Smithsonion Institute. Tell him I sent you

Jerry

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Denny over at www.dennyshangout.com probably will have the info you need---He has more info than the Smithsonion Institute. Tell him I sent you

Jerry

So true, so true, I knew he was older than dirt.

Not to keep beating a dead horse here but I was going back over this thread and realized that I didn't mention a couple of very basic things----

WHEN you have a braking problem, the problem is probably on the opposite end of the car not doing its share of the load---in this case ( and many especially with big and littles) the front brakes aren't doing there share of the stopping--and the rears then lock up early---

In drum brakes this can be as simple as having the shoes on backwards or the backingplates on the wrong side---there is a primary shoe and seconary shoe---they go on a certain way--and since drum brakes are self energising the side of the car the backing plate on might make a differance.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Not to keep beating a dead horse here but I was going back over this thread and realized that I didn't mention a couple of very basic things----

WHEN you have a braking problem, the problem is probably on the opposite end of the car not doing its share of the load---in this case ( and many especially with big and littles) the front brakes aren't doing there share of the stopping--and the rears then lock up early---

In drum brakes this can be as simple as having the shoes on backwards or the backingplates on the wrong side---there is a primary shoe and seconary shoe---they go on a certain way--and since drum brakes are self energising the side of the car the backing plate on might make a differance.

....with the long shoe always (well, usually) going on the back side

If you can measure the diameter of your rear wheel cylinders, and reduce the size 1/16"
it will probably eliminate the lock up situation, assuming the brakes are all adjusted correctly. If 1/16" is not enough go to the next smaller size. Wheel cylinders are cheap and is the best way to balance the brake system. Proportioning valves take away brake force, not the most desirable situation in a panic stop. Here are some popular sizes and Wagner part numbers for Ford 8" & 9" rear ends, for both the right and left sides.
7/8"- WC 17507/8, 29/32"- WC 28804/5, 15/16"- WC 17509/10, or WC 59240/1, 31/32" WC 49234/5, 1"- WC 78974/5. If your parts store doesn't have Wagner have them cross these numbers over to the brand that they carry
HemiDeuce..

Originally Posted by HemiDeuce

If you can measure the diameter of your rear wheel cylinders, and reduce the size 1/16"
it will probably eliminate the lock up situation, assuming the brakes are all adjusted correctly. If 1/16" is not enough go to the next smaller size. Wheel cylinders are cheap and is the best way to balance the brake system. Proportioning valves take away brake force, not the most desirable situation in a panic stop. Here are some popular sizes and Wagner part numbers for Ford 8" & 9" rear ends, for both the right and left sides.
7/8"- WC 17507/8, 29/32"- WC 28804/5, 15/16"- WC 17509/10, or WC 59240/1, 31/32" WC 49234/5, 1"- WC 78974/5. If your parts store doesn't have Wagner have them cross these numbers over to the brand that they carry
HemiDeuce..

Wow!! Thanks!! You saved me alot of leg work!! Thanks to all for your feedback, this forum really makes building a car easier!!! Wealth of Knowledge!!
Pete

two pages of pictures and opinions, whew, yes it will work

FWIW Internationals have same system, parallel mastercyl, brake/clutch and a single line supplying all four corners for the brakes, just a 'tee' below the master cyl for front/rear distribution.