Thread: Anyone have their MC/Booster under the dash?

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70s Dodge vans have this set up. I picked up a pedal assembly for my 37 ford from a pick a part for 15.00. I had to do some modification and use some longer pedals from a jeep, but did it all for less than 50.00. Much cheaper than the 600.00 for a krugel. Thought about it for my roadster but it already had floor mount on the frame.

Originally Posted by streetrod

70s Dodge vans have this set up. I picked up a pedal assembly for my 37 ford from a pick a part for 15.00. I had to do some modification and use some longer pedals from a jeep, but did it all for less than 50.00. Much cheaper than the 600.00 for a krugel. Thought about it for my roadster but it already had floor mount on the frame.

Hi Streetrod. You have any pics of this setup? I'm curious to see how you installed it in your 37. Thanks.

Randy

Its hard to see what I had done. Mine has more modification than what you would do because I added a clutch master. I lengthened the entire assembly for this reason. You can see where I added some flat stock across the bottom of the assembly to lengthen it. The original bracket is where you see the diagonal weld across the bottom. I also added a piece where the booster mounts (ugly) because the dodge booster had a different mounting configuration. I also used different pedals because I needed the clutch pedal you wouldnt need to do that if your running brake only, however you may need to lengthen the brake pedal. As I remember the original pedal was a little short because it is for a van. It honestly took me an afternoon to do once I had everything. I have a plasma cutter so that helps out. I uses a couple rod ends and all thread to make an adjustable connection for pedal connection. If you can pick one of these up froma junk yard, its obvious where Krugel came up with the design. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Originally Posted by streetrod

Its hard to see what I had done. Mine has more modification than what you would do because I added a clutch master. I lengthened the entire assembly for this reason. You can see where I added some flat stock across the bottom of the assembly to lengthen it. The original bracket is where you see the diagonal weld across the bottom. I also added a piece where the booster mounts (ugly) because the dodge booster had a different mounting configuration. I also used different pedals because I needed the clutch pedal you wouldnt need to do that if your running brake only, however you may need to lengthen the brake pedal. As I remember the original pedal was a little short because it is for a van. It honestly took me an afternoon to do once I had everything. I have a plasma cutter so that helps out. I uses a couple rod ends and all thread to make an adjustable connection for pedal connection. If you can pick one of these up froma junk yard, its obvious where Krugel came up with the design. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Hey thanks for the pic. I'd like to see a wider shot of it too if you don't mind. How do you plan to access the master cylinder for service? Remote fill? Are you going to have AC in the car?

I have also seen one of these that was reversed so the master cylinder went to the left of the steering column. (see pic) Kugel said they charge $100 more for that, which would bump it up to near $700....Yikes!

Anyway, I may just keep mine all under the floor but I'm intrigued by the idea and enjoy innovative ways to accomplish the task and save lots of $$$ in the process.

Thanks again.
Randy

It will be a little tuff to fill, but I figured I would use a curved fill tube (candy cane shape) anytime after original fill. Once I fill it and bleed it, I dont anticipate having to fill it again for a long time. If I do I better figure where its leaking. This car is torn down for final welding and its hard to get any good pictures. Thats about best I can do, I tried a couple others but I have tubing squareing up the body (Convertible) so its very difficult to get a picture threw the tubing.

just registered on this forum and seen this setup ,its what ive been looking for for ages as a solution to fitting the servo out of the way without having to go the remote route underneath the floor......was goona mount the servo inside the firewall and the m/cylinder outside but no room inside so this will work good ,it all was outside with a v6 fitted but now got a 318 so no room in the inn....

I was unable to find the room for the remote fill. So- I made access easier. My Auburn insert now is held by 3 wingnuts & a 15 pin single connector for wiring.
I can pull the gauge insert in less than 5 minutes & have access through the hole. That will have to do for now.