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12-02-2017 11:56 AM #11
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
With screw-in studs, the expensive part is having the machine shop mill down the head front to back to allow for the thickness of the head of the screw-in studs and the thickness of the guideplates. Otherwise, if you screw the studs in without milling the head, valve train geometry is out the window. Press-in studs have no head height to allow for, but without the head, you have no way to retain a guideplate. So, you either go with pressed-in studs and guided rockers or you go with screw-in studs and guideplates. You cannot use both guided rockers AND guideplates. Something will break.
As I said before, try to get the rail rockers and the covers when you buy the heads, if you buy them used.
I would advise against the Comp Magnum roller tip rockers.
1. It's the fulcrum that needs a roller, not the tip. Poor engineering in my opinion.
2. I have seen these rockers turn blue from the friction generated at the fulcrum. How is that a good thing?
The 12496820 looks like a low-rise intake. The one to use, I would think, would be the high-rise 12366573. It has been dyno-proven time after time that a high-rise, dual-plane intake manifold will make more power 1500 to 6000 than any other manifold design. If money were no object, I would choose the 12366573 at a height of 5.400". If money were an issue, I'd back off to either the Weiand 8502 at 4.730" or the Edelbrock 7116 at 4.720". I would also use two intake gaskets with a 1" phenolic or wooden spacer and top the carburetor with a 14" diameter by 4" thick air filter assembly to allow the motor to breathe.
I would begin hitting craigslist for a used intake manifold, one of the 3 listed above.
Last edited by techinspector1; 12-02-2017 at 12:01 PM.
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