Thread: Help Me Pick Some Heads For Christmas Present

Tweet

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

Richard I've gotta start by saying, you're good man! You've got 30+ years on me but I can remember even back as a young man gravitating toward the 'old guys' because they were chalked full of knowledge and willing to mentor to any young guys that showed a genuine interest to learn what they had in their noggins. You my friend are one of those inspiring mentors to us younger generations, I appreciate your time sir!

Thanks very much Nuck. I had quite a few fellows help me along the way and I see it as a responsibility to pass on what I have learned because I love it so and would like others to feel the same way about it.

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

Yes this truck is equipped with a 12 bolt rear end. I've never attempted to change gearing but I'm not afraid to tackle the job if I can't find a 3.73 geared rear end for a reasonable price. The bay area here is a joke with regards to pricing on certain parts, rear ends being one of them. Tare down is straight forward, I just need to get up to speed with the install protocol, setting lash, etc. I'd actually prefer to do it myself as it's one of those things that's still a grey area and as an engineer, I must scratch any itch I don't understand. Either way I'll look into your suggested diff guys to see what the options are before making a decision.

All these years, whenever I took on a new project, I would contact Faxon Auto Literature for a complete set of service manuals on the car or truck that I was intending to modify. Chilton and Motors manuals basically say "disassemble" and re-assemble in reverse. I have found them worthless, so was very happy to find Faxon years ago and be able to purchase the original manuals from the manufacturers.
Search

Looking at the offerings, first up is a 957 page Service Manual. Very good would be almost like new and good would be perfectly acceptable and serviceable. You'll want the 510 page Overhaul Manual, as overhauls are not included in the Service Manual. Or you can get both Service Manual and Overhaul Manual together on a CD if you have access to a printer and would rather not buy the books.

The wiring diagram is offered as a reprint or original.

If it were my truck, I would want an Owner's Manual to put in the glovebox. This is a nice addition when you go to sell the truck. Never say never.

Finishing off the original GM stuff is a CD-ROM parts illustration and a printed parts interchange manual 1973 to 1987. This is where you'll find the stouter sway bars. The remainder of literature shown is all aftermarket and is available from many different outlets.

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

I hear your logic on the OD transmission and will take that into consideration. Transmission change is way down the list so I'm too worried about that anyway. Most of my son's driving will be to/from school, sports and Friday night hops for the next 3 years so a 3.73 3-gear set up would be just fine. My older daughter's Jeep got 12.5 mpg during her high school years and because the drive mileage was so low it didn't hurt my wallet too bad.

Simpler is better.

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

I'm almost positive these stock heads are the 76cc's (but I had planned to pull the covers off at some point to confirm) so I'm not sure how much can be gained with these heads. I'm open to suggestions though and can pull a cover this weekend to confirm if it helps.

Yes, with an 8.5:1 SCR, I would bet they're 76 cc's. When we find out what they are for sure, we'll be able to look around for some replacements with smaller chambers.

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

Ok so the 204 cam, I'm gathering that the 3.73 gearing, 3-speed, and a compression bump to 9.5:1 from heads is all meant to optimize low end, off the line performance and the 204 cam with 112 LSA to compliment and balance out the system for a wider power band and better drivability. Question, since higher valve lifts produce more hp, what's the highest lift I can get or want?

Lift will be dictated by the duration of the lobe and whether or not the cam is ground on a full diameter blank or a reduced diameter blank. (Smaller base circle). Reduced diameter blanks are used to prevent interference with a few cam lobes and the big end of the connecting rod on a stroker motor such as the 383 Chevy. (4.030" X 3.750")

If this were a drag race vehicle and you were 2/10ths of a second off the National Record in your class, I would advise you to go to 1.6:1 ratio rocker arms. For any other situation, I would advise keeping the stock 1.5:1 ratio rockers. The valvetrain is probably the most highly stressed system in the motor and there is no use in asking more of it than it can produce, trouble-free, over a long period of time. I have seen an average of a 10-12 horsepower gain in a 500 hp motor by changing to 1.6 rockers.

Originally Posted by Nuckingfuts

On the TC, I still have to get through your earlier links but I intend to this weekend then I'll follow up on your lead and contact Jim's group to get some input. Thanks again Richard!

.