Thread: 434 SBC info needed
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02-10-2009 10:19 PM #9
My info on them is from personal experience. The cam tunnel was so out of whack on the World block that I couldn't slide the cam in. I would have had to bore the cam tunnel for big block bearings. I was too aggravated at that point to do it so I sent the block back even though shipping came out of my pocket and cost more than the machine work.
The Ohio cranks --- (1) It needed to be turned 10/10 to clean up the journals. Sent it back (2) Snout was bent. Sent it back (3) Needed two slugs of mallory metal for internal balancing. Sent it back.
A Scat crank that was there for someone else would have needed some metal removed in order to balance out. My machinest turns the counter weights down in a lathe for balancing and that, IMO, is much better than adding expensive mallory metal.
Everyone is right that the off brand cranks are likely poured in the same China foundry. But, I think it makes a big difference on who finishes the crank. The Callies Compstar crank that I went with is an import that cost pretty close to the same as any of the other Scat, Eagle, Ohio, etc. imported cranks but the finish machine work is awesome and way better than the rest. Callies assured me it would handle 1200 hp.
Dave is right about all blocks needing finished machine work. CNC Blocks N/E does some of the best finish work on Dart blocks at an unbeatable price. Carl checks everything. Here is some of pics his work http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93124
Hope you make some good decisions and everything goes well.RAY
'69 Chevelle--385
'68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
'78 Luv--383





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