Thread: 434 SBC info needed
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02-09-2009 09:35 PM #1
I haven't come across a whole lot of bad things with the world blocks on the net? Where have you gotten all the info at about them? What's the major problems with them?
Also, what problems were you having with the crank from ohio crank? I've heard nothing but good about them in the past? A repeat NHRA and IHRA champ has told me that they are a very reputable company and that is why I went with them in the past.
I'm not tryin to be a hassle but I know that there are some people that just prefer certain companies.
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02-09-2009 09:36 PM #2
Also i'm looking for 14.5-1 or so CR. Figured i'd be alright as long as piston/valve clearance is good and running alcohol
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02-10-2009 06:13 AM #3
i had a customer that only used ohio crank short blocks i did rebuild them and did just short block on his race engines with new ohio cranks i had some in the shop not alot 15 of them there are ok there not a crower or a callies magnum the last ohio i had had a bad crank finsh on the journals very wavy but did get used .i would of sent it back but customer wanted to race .i have seen stuff from scat to that had bad journals that look like the ground the journals with a loaded wheel and grove the journals and have sent them back. to all this stuff comes from the same place i have seen them just about all makes.i have had cats scats and ohios setting in the shop at the same time they are all the same forging. i have guys running fast with cats scat ohios elgin and many that just came in a no name box s they all did work or made them work . if you have the time and no money the cheaper cranks are ok they work but if you have money buy a crower or calliesLast edited by pat mccarthy; 02-10-2009 at 06:16 AM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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02-10-2009 10:19 PM #4
My info on them is from personal experience. The cam tunnel was so out of whack on the World block that I couldn't slide the cam in. I would have had to bore the cam tunnel for big block bearings. I was too aggravated at that point to do it so I sent the block back even though shipping came out of my pocket and cost more than the machine work.
The Ohio cranks --- (1) It needed to be turned 10/10 to clean up the journals. Sent it back (2) Snout was bent. Sent it back (3) Needed two slugs of mallory metal for internal balancing. Sent it back.
A Scat crank that was there for someone else would have needed some metal removed in order to balance out. My machinest turns the counter weights down in a lathe for balancing and that, IMO, is much better than adding expensive mallory metal.
Everyone is right that the off brand cranks are likely poured in the same China foundry. But, I think it makes a big difference on who finishes the crank. The Callies Compstar crank that I went with is an import that cost pretty close to the same as any of the other Scat, Eagle, Ohio, etc. imported cranks but the finish machine work is awesome and way better than the rest. Callies assured me it would handle 1200 hp.
Dave is right about all blocks needing finished machine work. CNC Blocks N/E does some of the best finish work on Dart blocks at an unbeatable price. Carl checks everything. Here is some of pics his work http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93124
Hope you make some good decisions and everything goes well.RAY
'69 Chevelle--385
'68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
'78 Luv--383






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