Thread: Few SBC questions!!!

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As for re-using them 30 Mile Lifters I would . But it really is Best to always run New on New so the Camshaft will break in right . The Camshafts Listed are Hyd Flat Tappet Grinds . You would want Good Hi-Rev Hyd Lifters . You can Pull your Camshaft out and mark the lifters in/ex per Cylinder and sell it on this Forum . Now I am thinking Your Double Hump Heads are 1.94"in/1.50"ex Heads and you do need screw in studs and Better Valve springs up to 500" Lift installed . And if you run the EX268H Camshaft I would say with out Looking at a P.C Engine Dyno you will have a Real H.P of 380-385 at around 5500-5600 RPM's . If your Double Hump Heads need all the work as above . Look into buying different Heads . If you do not want to do the intake/valvecovers and rocker arm change out . Look at these Heads they Flow just a bit Less on the Intake Side and a bit more on the Exhaust then the #906 GM Votecs that need screw instuds Stronger Springs and the Valve seal Bosses to be Cut Down to work on this Build . http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=4266KA Price for Pair . Yes these heads out flow you D/H Heads so you should have a 357-400 H.P Build with them . But Like Rumrumm Said the AFR's are the Top Dog I don't think they could be beat on the Top of this Build . But they sure will set you back with there Co$t .

Originally Posted by tango

As for re-using them 30 Mile Lifters I would . But it really is Best to always run New on New so the Camshaft will break in right . The Camshafts Listed are Hyd Flat Tappet Grinds . You would want Good Hi-Rev Hyd Lifters . You can Pull your Camshaft out and mark the lifters in/ex per Cylinder and sell it on this Forum . Now I am thinking Your Double Hump Heads are 1.94"in/1.50"ex Heads and you do need screw in studs and Better Valve springs up to 500" Lift installed . And if you run the EX268H Camshaft I would say with out Looking at a P.C Engine Dyno you will have a Real H.P of 380-385 at around 5500-5600 RPM's . If your Double Hump Heads need all the work as above . Look into buying different Heads . If you do not want to do the intake/valvecovers and rocker arm change out . Look at these Heads they Flow just a bit Less on the Intake Side and a bit more on the Exhaust then the #906 GM Votecs that need screw instuds Stronger Springs and the Valve seal Bosses to be Cut Down to work on this Build . http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=4266KA Price for Pair . Yes these heads out flow you D/H Heads so you should have a 357-400 H.P Build with them . But Like Rumrumm Said the AFR's are the Top Dog I don't think they could be beat on the Top of this Build . But they sure will set you back with there Co$t .

Awesome! So what about a good roller cam? I know They are a lot more in price, but thats what i'd like to eventually go to anyways. I eventually am going to build a nice stroker bottom end, so I really don't want to re buy everything later on. Id like to be in the 500+ range when I drop in the new short block!

Awesome! So what about a good roller cam? I know They are a lot more in price, but thats what i'd like to eventually go to anyways. I eventually am going to build a nice stroker bottom end, so I really don't want to re buy everything later on. Id like to be in the 500+ range when I drop in the new short block!

S/R Torquer heads are a good buy. I ran them on my previous street rod that had a 350 with a B&M 142 supercharger. I had them pocket ported before bolting them on. They are capable of supporting 400 hp. The only down side is that they have the older combustion chamber design, but they are available in either 67cc or 76cc chambers so you can choose your compression ratio based on the pistons you have. You could almost have a set for what is costs to completely rebuild a set of old heads.