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Yup, I guess... I bought some used Roush stuff a number of years back... Very pleased with it. I bought a crankshaft, turned out to be a Callies and a set of Oliver rods... Already had a pair of the old style C2 Yates heads.... Turned into a very strong engine. Sold the car a couple years ago, far as I know it's still alive and well. Next crank I bought from him broke in half on the 2nd dyno pull.....Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: Your guess is as good as mine!!!! It measured out absolutely perfect and balanced up as good as any other crank!!!! Just one of those deals, I guess. Heck, who knows? Might of been in a wreck and took a shot on the snout, spun out and ran backwards???? Kinda like the old Roulette wheel guys in Vegas used to say, ya spins the wheel and ya takes yer chances!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
well i go thru this all the time get a used top name crank that has seen 1000+hp and pay to get it fixed from a burnt out rod or buy a new never beat on crank for about the same price made in china ??i go with the china cranks
Pat how well are the China cranks balanced right out the box . One guy told me he had to add a lot of weight to his crank to balance it out . Do the China 3.48 cast steel cranks weigh the same as the Chevy cast iron one do ?
You should see what the driver's do to the Trucks ? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
especially dale when he drives the big brown truck :eek:
Not the #88 car :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
i was referring to a cpl years ago when the ups thing was "dale , drive the big brown truck, dale: no i wont drive the big brown truck!" dale jarret for those of you youngins ;) :lol:
you allways should balance a new crank on a 3.480 could not tell you i allways used gm cranks. on the 3.750 i could not tell you have used some. it was at the time not eventful at the time .i have done more 4.000-4.750 cranks they have been cranks better then other but to say you had to add weight that has more to do with your bob weight. any thing heavy pistons and rods the counter weights will need more weight so then it is heavy metal so if you have a light mass your punching holes or adding slugs of heavy steel it happens. so the only way to say is if you use a USA crank with the target bob weigth and then used a china crank with the same target bob weigth you could say one balanced out of the box better the china cranks are not the best .but they are at the time 3/4 price of USA crank and for most part they work fine if you have the money your not going to read this and buy a USA crank with is great if you have the money. but there is alot of guys that are working with less money then other i have used many of the china cranks have one running in the mild 8s in the 1/4 of mile and many more that run from 11sto 9 s they at times can be a pain to balance out but i had a BRC and a crower usa crank that i had to have slugs put in the crank you friend may have order the wrong part number and if a external crank to try to go internal with it your going to add slugs of heavy metalQuote:
Originally Posted by tango
what do you guys think of this? 1960 283 bored to 302 stock steel crank (not cast iron) forged 4340 light weight I-beam rods ARP bolts light wieght forged .100 domed pistons RHS 64cc heads with 2.02 & 1.60 valves w/port matching on the heads and intake victor jr intake w/800cfm edelbrock carb solid roller cam and lifters .558 lift on int. & exh. 3000-7000RPM, roller rockers full balanced rotating assembley 150 shot of NOS. 3000 stall converter 700R4 or 4L60 or 4L80 tranny 5:12 gears w/ 30x12.50x15 rear slicks 3200lb car.
or add a 671 blower?
For what kind of use, Street or strip?Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy55779
I like 283"s I have run both street and strip with them, 2bl, 4bl, 2x4's, 3x2's. haven't had a bad one yet! only popped the one with 2x4's, and 132,000 miles on it, and that was because I hit a dinner plate size ice patch when I was pedal to the metal, and BOOM! tac pegged before I couud think about it. :( Spring fever!
Pat
both? mainly strip.Quote:
Originally Posted by HemiTCoupe
the big deal with the sbc chevy is that it has a very small crank snout and runing a blower on this with a big blower is very hard on them and if you double the key way you are not helping the snout but making it weaker by cuting one more key way in it so you should look in to a bbc snout small block chevy crank .i am doing a 383 with a 871 on it and just are using a 4340 scat and going to one full 1/4 key way and going to re broache every thing and hope it will not take the snout off the customer just dose not want to pay for the new crank with the bbc snout but he will never use it hard so he maybe ok? what your asking you need a very good crank and more parts if your thinking of adding two power adders at the same time now you are playing with fire
what i ment was either nos or go with a blower. and have a max red line around 8000 rpm, plus on the blowers you can have it underdriven, 1 to 1, or overdriven. plus there is always turbos alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
Nitros oxyde would probally be a cheaper rout than forced air induction.
the blower still get run with the belt and you will work the nose you are added twist by driving the blower yes you could use a small shot Nos with a stock crank i wound and have shot peened the crank .i done tubos to but your pushing a very old used partQuote:
Originally Posted by speedy55779
i'm not sayin to use both but either one or the other like for example use the victor jr intake with a 800cfmEdelbrock carb with a 150hp shot of NOS OR go with forced air induction (turbo or supercharger) not both at the same time that would be nuts :eek: but if you had a underdriven supercharger you can run higher compression cause of the underdriven lower boost which wouldn't be as hard on the nose as a overdriven high boost set up. or run turbos and not worry about the nose of the crank :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
but to be honest with you pat i would probally use a NOS kit before i use a forced air kit just for the fact of the prices.
yep i know about under driving have done some blower and the 671 is 420 cid so you bet you would under drive it the50 chevy is a 548 10to1 with 10 of boost here is a turbo 540 i built and made headers and many partsQuote:
Originally Posted by speedy55779
thanks for showing that beast again, pat ... beautiful work of art :toocool:
-Chris
[QUOTE=pat mccarthy]yep i know about under driving have done some blower and the 671 is 420 cid so you bet you would under drive it the50 chevy is a 548 10to1 with 10 of boost here is a turbo 540 i built and made headers and many parts yes you can use the small crank with small nose told you i am doing one still not much there**) to run any 3 inch belt the blower will take power and get run by the nose of the crank even under driven there is mass of the blower to deal with that is comming in to play when you get on and off the gas
shame less plug you bet thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by skids72
HEY yours looke better then mine
My input, as usual, would be to lower the weight of the car.... A rule of thumb is that 100 pounds weight reduction equals 1/10 of a second lower ET.... Narrower slicks also would offer less rolling resistance, I would think with the chassis set up properly and good weight transfer a 10" or 10.5" tire would probably do fine.... Same on the front, the 3.5" wheels with the skinny tires aren't real good for control issues, but they do roll a lot more free. Blowers and nitrous do add a substantial amount of power but the trade off is that they are both hard on parts.....
As for the engine itself, I'll leave that to the engine guys. Also, cold air makes more horsepower then hot air on a normally aspirated engine, do some creative engineering to get cold outside air to the carb instead of the hot underhood air. Watch the rod and piston weights closely, lighter is better.... I've ran aluminum rods in a couple of sbf's with good results along with some lightening on the crankshaft to lower the weight of the reciprocating mass. Another general rule would be that lighter internals live longer, as long as the lightening isn't overdone to lower their life expectancy. Everything comes with a trade off!!!!
I like this set up even with out the spray or a blower . Only I would run a Holley 700CFM D/P and a built TH350 With a 3800 stall . Install it in a 1967-68 Camaro . Man that car should run low 12s . Even a 488 gear Would work ok . COOL speedy you come up with some real good builds . :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy55779
yeah see i don't like holleys but everyone has their choice but i would run NOS with the 5:12 gears and have it scream down the track and if she holds together she holds together :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by tango
Speedy I like carter AFBs Had a 750 Edelbrock carb on my last 350 Old's Build . It did work good ! Have the 600CFM Edelbrock on the 289 Mustang . I don't like the Holley 600 V/S right out the box . A big 2BBL will out perform it .
yeah that fine. i would run an edelbrock and you would run a holley so whatQuote:
Originally Posted by tango
So I think the Holley will make that car E.T Better for that build that's what ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy55779
your doing ok, get rid of the edelbrock carb if your gonna race it at all, get a holley, whats the compression on that gonna be i suck at math , if 11:-1 use a 750 dbl pumper mech,2ndaries if 12:-1 and up get an 830. use a turbo 350 and a 4000 or up stall i had a 3500 it ran like a dog. rods you could get away with some nice reconned factory's the cam size is good and the spray would help you out a little instead of needing mass compression u can use that to compensate :D i am switching to a set of 5:13's gears as we speak with a 4500 stall:D if i was going to put a 6-71 on a 301 id fill the blockQuote:
Originally Posted by speedy55779
gassersrsrule-196 I may pick up a 1984 Pontiac T/A from a guy at work . It has a stock LG4 305 with a 700R and a 3.42 gear . I don't like to build 305s there ok for a mild street build . And I don't want to go with a 350 . I do have a 1966 283 I have wanted to build up . I think this T/A would like that engine . But I will drive that car to work a lot and do some drag racing with it . So to start I would go 60 over on the block (292 ci) With ARP rod bolts . And I would like to keep the C/R at 9.5.1 maybe run some S/R world heads 67cc but 194/150 valves . And for an intake I have a edelbrock dual plane EPS . And a 600CFM Performer carb . Now for the camshaft how about the Lunati Voodoo #60101LK It's 213/219 at 050 with 454/468 lift . I think this set up will work good for this 90% street T/A . What do you think is the best set up for a street build on a 283 ? :cool:
i cannot justify spending 1500+ dollars for heads on EVERY engine build when i can get away with less for the same. i am very stubborn in that aspect, how much do those cars weight? how big is a 280h comp i cant remember, but the 301's loved that cam for the street. no edel carb for me a 600 holley works just fine. the intake would work good. for me id build a 292 with 11:-1 some good oll 461 or 462's <i dont wanna hear it from none of you so just SSSHH> one step below the 280h or just go with a 280h, a performer rpm and a 600 holley. just remeber a 283 is one of the easyest motors to overcam!
You don't have to spend $1,500 +.Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
You can get into a set of RHS Pro Action heads for around $950 set up for a mech. cam.
ok at least another grand to the build that doesnt always need to be there.
yep you can not boil out mag core drill ream new install mang bronze ream hone fit the guilds cut for a rigid chimney seal a 3 angle valve job cut the heads buy all the hard ware for less then 1/2 that price and i still did not add in for screw in studs and still not get as good of a flowing head did i miss any thing ????Quote:
Originally Posted by erik erikson
A bunch of time porting, flowing, cc'ing, milling, spring height checking, and then some assembly time. Other then that, I think you covered it....:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
well i just wanted to cover the basics but now your bring that up do not for get the run down to the hospital to get the iron ground out of your eye. my that last trip was $350.:CRY:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Not me man, I still have full warranty through the VA!!!!:LOL: :LOL: Eye cleanouts are freebies, but they still hurt!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
wow you guys cost way to much :LOL: