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i did a 632 that took two rods off the crank busted the oil rail out of a dart block and busted two of the bottom s of the bores up the china crank was welded two new china billet I beam rods two sleeves and i welded up the block with to new JE pistons all this was not from the crank or rods the cam was hitting the rods and did lose valve train this engine dyno over 900+hp with welded up parts you could not say any thing better with usa parts? could you????
Do something unheard of and make a mistake ,like forget to torque one or the cap bolts ,miss a shim or a few .001 here and a few .002 there and she is gunna blow first wide open run.
100,000 thousand dollar motors pop before they make a 1/4 mile of road time.....When you do more than get the groceries at 55mph,everything is a canidate to blow at any time,might just blow because it wants to.....with no actual culprit to be found ,it was just its time to go ,may have been metal fatigue ,may have lost tune ,might of had bad gas ........may of might could of should of would ...it happens the best and worst.....:whacked:
I had a 300 straight 6,I know ,I know ,here comes there was guy that had a engine type stories,but this was me and I know it was true :D the thing was unbreakable for me,it had bad valve springs is my now educated guess 20 years later....but I could hold it to the floor in first and it would just float the valves forever.....,basically you could floor it for however long you wanted and it would not blow,put 4.88 rear gears in the 9 inch and 33s on the ground ,I had that thing 5 feet off the groung ,under the tires ,I basically abused it in a bad way ,it never failed ,even when I had to pull over on the freeway and tighten the three bellhousing bolts that had no lockwashers and would loosen up to the point of the flexplate digging into the nose of the starter ,about every 300 miles............:LOL:
Then the next one I had after losing that one {long long story there} was garbage ,it seemed like every 20 miles it broke something or started running poorly for one reason or another ,basically a lemon in every aspect of the truck ...like night and day ,but were only one year different and had basically the same options....go figure:confused:
loose is fast
I have seen alot of those type parts on racin junk ,most are magnifluxed and checked for cracks /warpage etc......because its a major concern with most who want to purchase those parts.....My personal opinion on them is this ,its like vegas you got a 50/50 shot on black or red and then theres that green 0 00 that pops up every now and then ..... could be the one crank legends are built on or it could be a lemon.............sounds risky if you plan on pushing it with a part like that ,but it may well be worth the risk,depending on application and whether or not you "feel" lucky.:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Its long gone ............some one got a "deal" on it......:DQuote:
Originally Posted by pat mccarthy
The old ,...now why is this one soo cheap deal ,it sounds tooo good to be true.........naw ,they just got over on a silly kid is all that happened.....:o
Yup, I guess... I bought some used Roush stuff a number of years back... Very pleased with it. I bought a crankshaft, turned out to be a Callies and a set of Oliver rods... Already had a pair of the old style C2 Yates heads.... Turned into a very strong engine. Sold the car a couple years ago, far as I know it's still alive and well. Next crank I bought from him broke in half on the 2nd dyno pull.....Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: Your guess is as good as mine!!!! It measured out absolutely perfect and balanced up as good as any other crank!!!! Just one of those deals, I guess. Heck, who knows? Might of been in a wreck and took a shot on the snout, spun out and ran backwards???? Kinda like the old Roulette wheel guys in Vegas used to say, ya spins the wheel and ya takes yer chances!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
well i go thru this all the time get a used top name crank that has seen 1000+hp and pay to get it fixed from a burnt out rod or buy a new never beat on crank for about the same price made in china ??i go with the china cranks
Pat how well are the China cranks balanced right out the box . One guy told me he had to add a lot of weight to his crank to balance it out . Do the China 3.48 cast steel cranks weigh the same as the Chevy cast iron one do ?
You should see what the driver's do to the Trucks ? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by DennyW
especially dale when he drives the big brown truck :eek:
Not the #88 car :)Quote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
i was referring to a cpl years ago when the ups thing was "dale , drive the big brown truck, dale: no i wont drive the big brown truck!" dale jarret for those of you youngins ;) :lol:
you allways should balance a new crank on a 3.480 could not tell you i allways used gm cranks. on the 3.750 i could not tell you have used some. it was at the time not eventful at the time .i have done more 4.000-4.750 cranks they have been cranks better then other but to say you had to add weight that has more to do with your bob weight. any thing heavy pistons and rods the counter weights will need more weight so then it is heavy metal so if you have a light mass your punching holes or adding slugs of heavy steel it happens. so the only way to say is if you use a USA crank with the target bob weigth and then used a china crank with the same target bob weigth you could say one balanced out of the box better the china cranks are not the best .but they are at the time 3/4 price of USA crank and for most part they work fine if you have the money your not going to read this and buy a USA crank with is great if you have the money. but there is alot of guys that are working with less money then other i have used many of the china cranks have one running in the mild 8s in the 1/4 of mile and many more that run from 11sto 9 s they at times can be a pain to balance out but i had a BRC and a crower usa crank that i had to have slugs put in the crank you friend may have order the wrong part number and if a external crank to try to go internal with it your going to add slugs of heavy metalQuote:
Originally Posted by tango
what do you guys think of this? 1960 283 bored to 302 stock steel crank (not cast iron) forged 4340 light weight I-beam rods ARP bolts light wieght forged .100 domed pistons RHS 64cc heads with 2.02 & 1.60 valves w/port matching on the heads and intake victor jr intake w/800cfm edelbrock carb solid roller cam and lifters .558 lift on int. & exh. 3000-7000RPM, roller rockers full balanced rotating assembley 150 shot of NOS. 3000 stall converter 700R4 or 4L60 or 4L80 tranny 5:12 gears w/ 30x12.50x15 rear slicks 3200lb car.