chev 302's back from the dead

or add a 671 blower?

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

what do you guys think of this? 1960 283 bored to 302 stock steel crank (not cast iron) forged 4340 light weight I-beam rods ARP bolts light wieght forged .100 domed pistons RHS 64cc heads with 2.02 & 1.60 valves w/port matching on the heads and intake victor jr intake w/800cfm edelbrock carb solid roller cam and lifters .558 lift on int. & exh. 3000-7000RPM, roller rockers full balanced rotating assembley 150 shot of NOS. 3000 stall converter 700R4 or 4L60 or 4L80 tranny 5:12 gears w/ 30x12.50x15 rear slicks 3200lb car.

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For what kind of use, Street or strip?
I like 283"s I have run both street and strip with them, 2bl, 4bl, 2x4's, 3x2's. haven't had a bad one yet! only popped the one with 2x4's, and 132,000 miles on it, and that was because I hit a dinner plate size ice patch when I was pedal to the metal, and BOOM! tac pegged before I couud think about it. :( Spring fever!

Pat

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Originally Posted by HemiTCoupe

For what kind of use, Street or strip?

Pat

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both? mainly strip.

the big deal with the sbc chevy is that it has a very small crank snout and runing a blower on this with a big blower is very hard on them and if you double the key way you are not helping the snout but making it weaker by cuting one more key way in it so you should look in to a bbc snout small block chevy crank .i am doing a 383 with a 871 on it and just are using a 4340 scat and going to one full 1/4 key way and going to re broache every thing and hope it will not take the snout off the customer just dose not want to pay for the new crank with the bbc snout but he will never use it hard so he maybe ok? what your asking you need a very good crank and more parts if your thinking of adding two power adders at the same time now you are playing with fire

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

the big deal with the sbc chevy is that it has a very small crank snout and runing a blower on this with a big blower is very hard on them and if you double the key way you are not helping the snout but making it weaker by cuting one more key way in it so you should look in to a bbc snout small block chevy crank .i am doing a 383 with a 871 on it and just are using a 4340 scat and going to one full 1/4 key way and going to re broache every thing and hope it will not take the snout off the customer just dose not want to pay for the new crank with the bbc snout but he will never use it hard so he maybe ok? what your asking you need a very good crank and more parts if your thinking of adding two power adders at the same time now you are playing with fire

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what i ment was either nos or go with a blower. and have a max red line around 8000 rpm, plus on the blowers you can have it underdriven, 1 to 1, or overdriven. plus there is always turbos also

Nitros oxyde would probally be a cheaper rout than forced air induction.

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

what i ment was either nos or go with a blower. and have a max red line around 8000 rpm, plus on the blowers you can have it underdriven, 1 to 1, or overdriven. plus there is always turbos also

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the blower still get run with the belt and you will work the nose you are added twist by driving the blower yes you could use a small shot Nos with a stock crank i wound and have shot peened the crank .i done tubos to but your pushing a very old used part

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

the blower still get run with the belt and you will work the nose you are added twist by driving the blower yes you could use a small shot Nos with a stock crank i wound and have shot peened the crank .i done tubos to but your pushing a very old used part

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i'm not sayin to use both but either one or the other like for example use the victor jr intake with a 800cfmEdelbrock carb with a 150hp shot of NOS OR go with forced air induction (turbo or supercharger) not both at the same time that would be nuts :eek: but if you had a underdriven supercharger you can run higher compression cause of the underdriven lower boost which wouldn't be as hard on the nose as a overdriven high boost set up. or run turbos and not worry about the nose of the crank :rolleyes:

but to be honest with you pat i would probally use a NOS kit before i use a forced air kit just for the fact of the prices.

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Originally Posted by speedy55779

i'm not sayin to use both but either one or the other like for example use the victor jr intake with a 800cfmEdelbrock carb with a 150hp shot of NOS OR go with forced air induction (turbo or supercharger) not both at the same time that would be nuts :eek: but if you had a underdriven supercharger you can run higher compression cause of the underdriven lower boost which wouldn't be as hard on the nose as a overdriven high boost set up. or run turbos and not worry about the nose of the crank :rolleyes:

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yep i know about under driving have done some blower and the 671 is 420 cid so you bet you would under drive it the50 chevy is a 548 10to1 with 10 of boost here is a turbo 540 i built and made headers and many parts

thanks for showing that beast again, pat ... beautiful work of art :toocool:

-Chris

[QUOTE=pat mccarthy]yep i know about under driving have done some blower and the 671 is 420 cid so you bet you would under drive it the50 chevy is a 548 10to1 with 10 of boost here is a turbo 540 i built and made headers and many parts yes you can use the small crank with small nose told you i am doing one still not much there**) to run any 3 inch belt the blower will take power and get run by the nose of the crank even under driven there is mass of the blower to deal with that is comming in to play when you get on and off the gas

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Originally Posted by skids72

thanks for showing that beast again, pat ... beautiful work of art :toocool:

-Chris

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shame less plug you bet thanks

HEY yours looke better then mine

My input, as usual, would be to lower the weight of the car.... A rule of thumb is that 100 pounds weight reduction equals 1/10 of a second lower ET.... Narrower slicks also would offer less rolling resistance, I would think with the chassis set up properly and good weight transfer a 10" or 10.5" tire would probably do fine.... Same on the front, the 3.5" wheels with the skinny tires aren't real good for control issues, but they do roll a lot more free. Blowers and nitrous do add a substantial amount of power but the trade off is that they are both hard on parts.....

As for the engine itself, I'll leave that to the engine guys. Also, cold air makes more horsepower then hot air on a normally aspirated engine, do some creative engineering to get cold outside air to the carb instead of the hot underhood air. Watch the rod and piston weights closely, lighter is better.... I've ran aluminum rods in a couple of sbf's with good results along with some lightening on the crankshaft to lower the weight of the reciprocating mass. Another general rule would be that lighter internals live longer, as long as the lightening isn't overdone to lower their life expectancy. Everything comes with a trade off!!!!