Thread: convert 1 piece seal to 2 piece seal

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Having trouble finding useable 2-piece seal 350 for 383 build (for the street). I have a 2 piece seal crank (also have rods and pistons, that's it). I'm thinking about using a '86 and later 1 piece seal block (more plentiful). I understand I need an adapter ($100) to convert to 2 piece seal but I've also read about an alignment tool ($90) for installing the adapter correctly. Any other issues and costs involved? Should I pursue this approach?

Just get whatever block you want, order the stroker kit with the correct crank to match the type of rear seal you have.....

I am with Dave ,get the block that matches your crank.......,you should be able to get a block and have it cleaned and inspected for cracks ,cheaper than the tool and adapter price......
I think its only about 300 bucks for a "seasoned" ready to run block,cleaned ,checked for cracks and a bored.

Dave and shawnlee28, have read many of your responses on this forum and found them very informative. I understand what you're saying but I don't think you answered my question. Probably just me, but anyway....

I already have a 2 piece seal crank along with rods and pistons but I can't seem to find a useable 350 2 piece seal block for a fair price in my area (I had a block before I bought the crank but the block turned out to be unuseable so I need another). However, I can find 1 piece seal blocks. So I guess I want to know if the adapter and tool I mentioned, is all I need in order to use my 2 piece crank in the newer 1 piece blocks.

Originally Posted by DennyW

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetec...eal/index.html

Thats some real good info Denny W COOL Thanks

Denny, actually, that's the article I read that prompted my question. That's where I initially learned about the adapter and the tool. I've also learned that sometimes articles leave small, but important, pieces of info out. Not being real expierienced, I wanted to be sure there was nothing more to it. So I guess it's as simple as that, an adapter and an alignment tool, thanks.

Well, if you're building a 383 stroker, the kit is going to come with a new crank......

GMR the few i know of that have been converted from one piece to two piece have had problems with leaks. I don,t know if it had something to do with who did the work or if it was the kit causing the problem. I think if it was me doing this i would try to get as much info as i could before going with the kit. Would like to know how it turns out.

I do like the 1976 and earlier 350 blocks . A lot of the early blocks had high tin and nickel in the cast-iron . Also called 010 / 020 blocks . The tin was used to help the metal flow into the casting mold . And the nickel was used to make the cylinder barrels harder and stronger . If you lived near me I would set you up with an older 350 block . But if you have a good late 5.7 block may-be a 4 bolt main ? And you just can not find an early 350 block . Use the 5.7 block with the seal conversion . If installed correctly it should seal just as well as the early blocks do . And one good thing with the 5.7 block . Most of them were set up for OEM roller cams . This may-be the camshaft type that you will want to run on this build . One more thing with the 5.7 block . Most every one of them are not drilled for the fuel pump shaft .

ok Denny, thanks again.

Dave, yes, you're right, the rotating assembly I previously bought did include the crank. I bought the 2 piece seal kit because I already had the 2 piece seal earlier style block I thought I was going to use.

Oldtrucker - yes sir, that's exactly the type of info I was hoping to find out - other folks experience or problems they heard of. Was hoping to find out how idiot proof the procedure is because I'm the idiot that's going to do it. And yes again, we're on the same page regarding researching the issue. Will let you know if I go that route what happens.

Tango, thanks for the offer on the block. I would take advantage if I could. The block I was going to use was a 10/20 block (010 casting id)....too bad. OK, good to know that these seals are reliable even if not completely idiot proof. Yep, the roller cam issue did seem like an added bonus to me also. I did some checking on doing a retro with my older block but seemed to be about a $600 additional cost which I didn't think I wanted to incur at the time. I'm going to keep searching for the earlier style block but I don't know.....one salvage yard I called said they send all their blocks to Venezuela....Venezuela??????? Anyway, today I'm checking to find out which years/blocks were set up for rollers. If you, or anyone else, has any info on this please let me know.

Anyway, today I'm checking to find out which years/blocks were set up for rollers. If you, or anyone else, has any info on this please let me know.[/QUOTE]

87 and up had rollers but not all of them you'd have to know what vin# to look for and what kind of car or truck they came in ect. TBI chevrolet motors with the oil dipstick on the passenger side with the valve cover bolts in the center of the valve cover but watch out for 305's its hard to tell them apart from 350's of that era
then there is also the 96 and up vortec's that have good flowing heads with big valves. Also you can buy and addaptor to fit a early 2 peace main seal crank into a 1 peace main seal block.

appreciate the info speedy55779