Thread: Crankshalf Barings and Rod barings

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there was no argument dave until eirk felt like he needed to cut me for my answer. i didn't tell the guy not to use a mic. i just suggested. another way of doing it, and eirk didn't like my answer i guess. why he feels like he needs to do that i dont know.

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Grandpa was a machinist by trade, and his crowning story is how he got the hydraulic solenoid valve to work.. it switched something like 4000 psi with something like 3 oz of force. He was on a team that was developing it. Well, it came across his desk one too many times for re-work. It seems that as soon as they applied the pressure, it would lock up. Anyway, grandpa was just plain pissed, and he ran the reamer through it again, really rough. Then he went to the can for a smoke.

Well, Grandpa's coworker came by, and assumed the part was ready for another run.

Next thing ya know, they are barging into the bathroom, saying
" KARL, IT WORKS! WHAT DID YOU DO?"

Seems they were putting too fine a finish on it, and it couldn't hold an oil film, so the piston would cock in the bore and lock up.

Just thought you might enjoy the story, and if not at least you know where I got the information. Grandpa says he did a lot of "experimenting" with plastiguage and that it is not very acurate.

That being said, if the dam stuff squishes out and stays a fairly thin line, then you have clearance. Any MAJOR clearance issues ( to tight ) and you will know soon as you torque the caps down.

And one more thing: Whether or not the crank has been turned down will have no relevance to if it is loose or tight, provided the proper bearings were installed. Remember always to plastiguage a dry assembly, cause an oil film will affect your reading.

Originally posted by Dave Severson
I'm not sticking up for anyone, I use mic's to do the intial build on an engine, and use plastigage for checking bearings at teardown and inspect time.

One of the reasons that the young-uns get a bit smart ass sometimes is that usually US GEEZERS told them they didn't know what they were talking about. I've learned as much from the young-us as I have from the geezers.

BTW, Erik is legit. I've seen his work, check out his website..........

it might be the best stuff in the world, but i wouldn't have it, cause if you did have a problem with it you wouldn't never get any warranty on it, cause he's never done anything wrong.

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Originally posted by Dave Severson
Well, I'm getting a pair of his cnc ported Windsor heads, at least. It's a quality product for a hell of a lot less then anyone else will sell them for.

As far as being right all the time, I'm sure that attitude does come across, but I would only say that a lot of that attitude comes from having to defend every dang thing he says.

Nobody's right, nobody's wrong. Everybody here has some good information and some that is just ego talk. I see no reason to defend him, he does a good enough job of that himself.

but you are defending him. i said the guy should use plasti gauge, and eriks answer was "Plastiguage is effected by temp. and humidity. It is for people who don't know how to read an inside bore gauge or mic" and you're making it sound like i started this arguiment. i didnt start nothing.

What flipping ever!!!!


"Once I thought I was wrong, but I was mistaken"

Give it a damn break!!!! You're not discussing issues, just ego's!!!!!



I'm just going to delete my stuff from this thread. I guy asks a simple question and it turns into a pi**ing contest over my way is better then your way and offers ABSOLUTELY NOTHING RELEVANT to building a better hot rod. I regret ever getting involved and trying to be a peacemaker.

Originally posted by lt1s10
you really don't know what the stuff is or what its used for do you? my dad and brother used it in the 40's to check bearings in the old Babbitt bearing motors, where you shimmed the bearing cap to make them fit,(you've probably never did that either) and a 10,000.00 pair of mic. wouldn't have done you no good, if the shaft is in the motor, in the car, I'm not gonna pull it out just so I can get a mic. to it just to check it.

I owe you an apology and a few others.I talked to my Father who is 75 and he says that this was a common practice with shimming the bearing caps.I also talked to one of the older retired shop owners who is in also in his early 70's and he said the same thing.After talking to both of these older guys I have learned something "there is more than one way to skin a cat"With that being said I can see where plasti-gauge might be acceptable in some cases.I will try and be more understanding of all the older mechanics,engine builders,machinist's etc.After all some of you where building engines way before I was even born.

Way to go Erik, takes a good man to offer an apology.......Besides, I was beginning to think I was the only fool that set there with a set of Mic's (mine are Starrets) and tunes oil clearances......Do you check the cam bores too?????? Or am I the only one that bored????

What do you guys think on "H" bearings, tighter, looser, or the same?????

ummmmm. What did I do now????? Nope, guess I don't get it...............

he should apologize, he is wrong, and if you want to take up for him then that's your prerogative, but it don't make it right. he should have went home and asked his daddy before he shot off at the mouth to start with, and you should be ashamed for condoning it.

ok, I'm wrong, Erik's wrong. we're both idiots........but I'm a happy idiot!!!!