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Thread: 1st bbc
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    78 str8 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 78 buick regal
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    after i got cast off of it..10237297 its a genVl vortec 454...should i purchase?
    I WISH A RICER WOULD!!!

  2. #17
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by 78 str8 View Post
    I just came upon a gen V 454..comes outta 98 truck.. complete minus carb for $500..should i get it? Or should i hang out for a gen lV? Plz respond as soon as u can..thanx alot!
    well you can build the v 454 out to 489/496 were you could not go with the 396 but the v block is not the same as a IV block so some things can work some things can not. older heads do not fit up very well on the open deck. i do not used them other say they can if????. i do not use older heads on the V VI blocks i checked it. two pc seal crank can work with adapter oil pans are not the same .stock V and VI need some work. valve train. the VI is a better way to go as it comes with HYD Roller cam set up. i have a VI block and others core blocks that can be built as a short block to long blocked
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 09-10-2013 at 05:42 AM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  3. #18
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    yep still half a sleep about late 90 to 91 was the first year for the V block and mid 90s ? then GM went to VI all about the same but for the hyd roller hold downs casted in the block for roller cam set up and the cast front timming gear cover
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  4. #19
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    So it sounds like $500 for a Gen VI is a good path, assuming you know it to be a good engine, just for the hydraulic roller lifter feature. Are you still looking at having it punched out & building it up?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  5. #20
    78 str8 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    well my engine build keeps changing due to new info...i decided not to go with 454 gen6..reasons being i just found out from the machine shop that my 402 (4.125")is actually bored out to a 454(4.250").. have money and time already in it..so imma just stick with it until a second build. I knw sum r sayn why but..ive grown fond of my current build..Next question would b what r the best pistons,rings,rods and main bearings 2 use? A recap of build is a 402 with 454 crank and heads, with a 4.250 bore..its a converted 454 rite?
    I WISH A RICER WOULD!!!

  6. #21
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    sorry i can not help you .I am done
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  7. #22
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    Very strongly suggest that you beep the cylinder walls before proceeding.
    o
    o
    Dave Severson likes this.
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  8. #23
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    As Tech said, think I'd do the sonic test first, that's a big cut on a cylinder wall! What parts to use depends on what you're going to do with it, I suppose. All out racing, cruizer, or a Saturday Night Special? We freshened the old 501 drag engine with Mahle pistons, King bearings, Childs & Alberts rings (plus the Zero Gap 2nd ring), that was about 200 passes ago and it's still running strong! Seems from my somewhat limited engine building, the 2618 forged pistons are well worth the extra money if for no other reason they seem to have better quality control in the manufacturing and machining processes, same thing with the King Bearings, C & A rings. Just my 2 cents worth on what seems to fit good and last a long time for me. More important IMO is the fit of all the components and a very first rate balance on the internals prior to assembly!!!!!!
    techinspector1 likes this.
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